My M50 conversion

[Dezzy]

Red?

I'd defos advise Black!!!!

[magpie]

black.

good work btw

[StefanAnghel]

I was thinking at black but everything is black or white on my car so I said to bright it up a bit..

[StefanAnghel]

RED the decition was taken!!

I need help with the gearbox and sump..

[StefanAnghel]

REd red rED

[StefanAnghel]

Can someone tell me how easy this automatic belt tensioner should move on the m50?!
Mine feels a bit stiff

Thanks

[Dezzy]

They are hard to move mate.

[StefanAnghel]

They are hard to move mate.

thank you

Can you tell me if that headgasket you put is the thicker one that can manage with a turbo??

Thanks

[StefanAnghel]

I can't get this f***er out... I've left it with penetrating oil, hit it, drill it... Nothing... I need a blow torch!

[Dezzy]

That wasnt snapped when it left here.

[StefanAnghel]

I know... It was me.. Or better.. my luck

[E30BeemerLad]

can't you put 2 nuts on it and then undo the first one, which will then grip onto the 2nd nut and undo the stud?

[StefanAnghel]

I'll deff try that! Thanks

[StefanAnghel]

And it's red

[StefanAnghel]

Any idiots guide how to remove an engine?

Found this on internet...can someone add/edit things to do on the e30..
Beginning the Swap:

1. Secure the hood as open as possible or remove it (e30)
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Remove the battery.
3. Remove the strut brace. (for cars that have one)
4. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and battery positive terminal.
5. Remove the battery and battery base.
6. Disconnect the connectors from the ECU
7. Disconnect the main wire harness connector.
8. Remove the air intake duct and air cleaner housing. Remove the resonator and intake air duct. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector. (OBD1 motors and older will not have the IAT sensor.
9. Disconnect the engine wire harness connector (where is that?)
10. Relieve fuel pressure. (how?)
11. Remove the (EVAP) control canister hose and fuel feed hose. (?)
12. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, fuel return hose and vacuum hose.
13. Remove the throttle cable and loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the accelerator linkage.
*NOTE: Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one.

15. Remove the grommet and wire harness clamps, then pull out the ECU/PCM connectors.
16. Remove the mounting bolt and lock bolt, then remove the power steering pump belt and pump.
17. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the air conditioning compressor belt.
18. Remove the transmission ground cable and hose clamp.
19. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly (M/T).
20. Remove the shift cable (CVT).
21. Disconnect the power steering pressure switch connector, and remove the wire harness clamp.
22. Remove the radiator cap. (If car is hot, use caution)
23. Raise the hoist to full height.
24. Remove the front tires/wheels and splash shield.
25. Drain the engine coolant. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator.
26. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer.
27. Drain the engine oil. Reinstall the drain bolt using a new washer.
28. Remove the shift rod and extension rod, commonly referred to as the shift linkage.
29. Remove the AC Compressor.
30. Remove the catalytic converter/exhaust pipe.

34. Lower the hoist.
35. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses.
36. Attach the chain hoist to the engine.
37. Remove the left and right front mount and bracket.
38. Remove the rear mount bracket.
39. Remove the upper bracket.
40. Remove the transmission mount bracket, then remove the transmission mount.
41. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses and electrical wiring.
42. Slowly raise the engine approximately 150mm. Check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine/transmission.
43. Raise the engine all the way, and remove it from the car.

[Dezzy]

Unbolt everything
Lift out

[Green]

Unbolt everything
Lift out

This method worked really well for me as well

[jimbom30cab]

it'll never catch on

[StefanAnghel]

Unbolt everything
Lift out

This method worked really well for me as well

I'm sure that there is a certain way...do I need to take all the fluids out first?

Thank you

[StefanAnghel]

I've just checked the thermostat and it's a 92c one...should i replace it with a 88c one ?!?
Thanks guys

[Jhonno]

If you want to.

[StefanAnghel]

If you want to.

Pro and cons?

[Brianmoooore]

For efficiency, the engine needs to be run as hot as possible, although this will have a slight adverse effect on power output.
The limiting factor is to prevent any local boiling occurring in the hotter parts of the cylinder head.

[StefanAnghel]

For efficiency, the engine needs to be run as hot as possible, although this will have a slight adverse effect on power output.
The limiting factor is to prevent any local boiling occurring in the hotter parts of the cylinder head.

I will leave it like this for the moment...
Thank you mister!

[StefanAnghel]

Contacted injectortune regarding these..

[StefanAnghel]

a bit of update






And the bit that I hate the most...ELECTRICS

[Dezzy]

The electrickery is plug and play on this one dude!


The loom was done by a pro.


Cam and crank sensor are easy to mix up. Thats about it though

[StefanAnghel]

The electrickery is plug and play on this one dude!
The loom was done by a pro.
Cam and crank sensor are easy to mix up. Thats about it though

I know, thanks anyway
I still hate it though...

I've left the same thermostat (92 degree) on it...and same rochet cover, sump gasket, water pump and spark plugs everything else will be new...anything else you think off that needs to be replaced or cleaned?

Thank you

[Dezzy]

Not really sure what its been up to since it left. I replaced pretty much everything about 2 years ago.


I reckon you'll be sound with it as is

[E30BeemerLad]

Get it thrown in there - after you have satin black'd those cam cover bolts, thermostat housing & front trigger wheel

[StefanAnghel]

Not really sure what its been up to since it left. I replaced pretty much everything about 2 years ago.


I reckon you'll be sound with it as is

Thanks...in that case should be in by the end of the month...
Another questions...what oil grade and how much do I need...for gearbox ATF is the best isn't it?

[StefanAnghel]

Get it thrown in there - after you have satin black'd those cam cover bolts, thermostat housing & front trigger wheel

neaaahh ...I will leave them like this...a bit of colour in the engine bay doesn't hurt...I think!?

[Dezzy]

Get it thrown in there - after you have satin black'd those cam cover bolts, thermostat housing & front trigger wheel

neaaahh ...I will leave them like this...a bit of colour in the engine bay doesn't hurt...I think!?

Our Lee is offering good advice mate!


It is looking a bit rubbish with the council red everywhere!

Have you done the air vents and heater controls red too, like the rest of the chav's???

[StefanAnghel]

No no no noooo...that is the only red you will see around my car...maybe...burgundy leather interior...but maybe!!

Thanks for the advice...much appreciated!

[E30BeemerLad]

You need about 7 litres of engine oil.

The M52 runs on 5w30 fully synth, not sure if it is the same for the M50, can't see why not. I use Shell Ultra Helix.

Once you have this in & going you'll soon realise that us 24v boys live at 6k+