Hello everyone,
some of the lines on the rear demister are not working. I read online that a kit can be bought to repair these lines. I wanted to know if with this kit, I will be able to fix the whole lines (end to end) or are these kits just to fix some broken spots within the lines?
also, has anyone ever used the rear demister kit's available to buy online or from shops? if yes, which one would you recommend?
thanks
Rear demister
Moderator: martauto
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
The conductive paint is just to repair a break in an element, not to replace long or whole sections of it. There are two types available, a simple brush on silver loaded paint, and a two part epoxy paint that has to be mixed together. If you want the repair to last, use the latter.
To find the breaks in the elements, turn the screen on, and use a voltmeter to measure the voltage on the tracks, but be careful not to cause damage with the sharp end of the meter probe.
A good track will give a reading of 6 volts right in the middle of the screen, but as you move along a faulty one the voltage will suddenly drop to zero from 12, or go from 12 to zero, depending on which end you start. Mark these points with a permanent marker on the outside of the screen.
Now connect the meter + lead to the battery + terminal, and move the other meter probe along the tracks as before. If the voltage step doesn't occur in exactly the same places as marked, you have a second break (and possibly more) in that particular track.
Thoroughly clean the areas where the breaks are and lay a couple of strips of masking tape along with a track width gap between them to keep the repair neat.
If your screen turns out to be beyond help, it's not a difficult DIY job to change it, although the terminal blocks can be fragile.
To find the breaks in the elements, turn the screen on, and use a voltmeter to measure the voltage on the tracks, but be careful not to cause damage with the sharp end of the meter probe.
A good track will give a reading of 6 volts right in the middle of the screen, but as you move along a faulty one the voltage will suddenly drop to zero from 12, or go from 12 to zero, depending on which end you start. Mark these points with a permanent marker on the outside of the screen.
Now connect the meter + lead to the battery + terminal, and move the other meter probe along the tracks as before. If the voltage step doesn't occur in exactly the same places as marked, you have a second break (and possibly more) in that particular track.
Thoroughly clean the areas where the breaks are and lay a couple of strips of masking tape along with a track width gap between them to keep the repair neat.
If your screen turns out to be beyond help, it's not a difficult DIY job to change it, although the terminal blocks can be fragile.