Replacing the lights behind the speedo/revcounter etc.

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beemeup
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Post Sun Nov 06, 2005 9:10 pm

Hi again.

Just wondering if anyone knows how to replace the bulb or whatever it might be that is stopping the lights working behind the speedo and fuel gauge, (maybe it's the same bulb) whats involved? much pulling apart of the dashboard or anything or is just a simple matter? What tools will I need? Also, any ideas why my drivers door will central lock the whole car, but not unlock it? I can unlock it from the boot ('92 316i touring).

appreciate any help..
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sun Nov 06, 2005 9:39 pm

1/ There are two bulbs that illuminate the instrument cluster. Easiest way for anyone with hands bigger than a five year old is to remove the whole cluster. Use the search button above to find out how.
Also search for "flickering temp gauge" , "220 ohm resistor" and "SI board batteries" for other things to do while the cluster's out.


2/ Wear in an alloy part on the back of the lock cylinder probably. It's possible to bend the metal forked part of the door catch that engages with it slightly, so that it contacts a new part of the alloy arm.
Slight adjustment of the locking solenoid in its mounting slots may help.
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beemeup
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Post Sun Nov 06, 2005 10:09 pm

thanks brianmooore, Youre a bloody legend, not just for your thuggery on the rugby field either!.. Talk about fast resonse.
I havnt looked at the door insides yet but will do it tomorrow and hopefully not bend this bit too much in the hope of being able to open my car from the door again.

I dont have any problems yet with the flickering fuel guage or losing memory info, do you think its a good thing to change them anyway?



Much appreciated..

beemeup.
E30Mark
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Post Sun Nov 06, 2005 10:18 pm

Make sure you only fit a 3 Watt lamp in the cluster, 5 Watt lamps will melt the orange shroud.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sun Nov 06, 2005 10:19 pm

Bend the steel part in the door , not the alloy bit - alloy does't take kindly to bending.
Re the cluster: Temp (and fuel) gauge is just tighten nuts, resistor is two solder joints, and the SI board batteries may be lithium anyway and will be fine. If they're NiCd, stick the board in the fridge for half an hour and measure the batteries voltage to see if they're up to scratch. Saves a lot of agro at a later date.
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