What is the best method to remove a broken wheel bolt?

Need technical Q/A then you're in the right place

Moderator: martauto

clydesdale
E30 Zone Regular
E30 Zone Regular
Posts: 296
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:00 pm
Location: New York, USA

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 12:04 am

I can remove the rotor and grip it. But, I did not even try because I figured the hub would just turn and I had no way to stop it. I have heard that some people notch a cut in it to allow for a screw driver to turn the bolt. But, I did not think this would work because I thought it would take more torque. But, I am hearing that it is the taper that makes them so tight.
I snapped the bolt trying to remove the tire.
e30topless
E30 Zone Team Member
E30 Zone Team Member
Posts: 13598
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 11:00 pm
Location: surrounded by scrap

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 12:06 am

if the wheel and disc/rotor is removed can you not get molegrips or similar onto whats left of the bolt?
i doubt there's any resistance on whats left in the hub ?
daimlerman
**BANNED**
Posts: 15968
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:00 pm
Location: Grumpy Old Man

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 1:05 am

You can stop the hub from turning by inserting two wheelbolts and a bar,let the bar rest on the deck to stop the hub turning whilst you wind the remains out with a pair of mole grips.

If you cannot grip the remains,you will either have to drill it out,or fit a new bearing/hub assembly.
Youth is wasted on the young.
clydesdale
E30 Zone Regular
E30 Zone Regular
Posts: 296
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:00 pm
Location: New York, USA

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 1:30 am

There is enough left to grab with vise-grips. But, I didn't even try because I figured it would be stuck in there. After all, I couldn't get it loose with a bolt head attached to it. But some say that they turn out easy. I just don't understand why, since I applied so much torque the head snapped off.
User avatar
Brianmoooore
E30 Zone Team Member
E30 Zone Team Member
Posts: 49359
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:26 am

It's the friction between the taper of the bolt of the head and wheel, and the torque applied to the threads of the bolt caused by the bolt head seating that's responsible for the shearing of the bolt.
Once the head is gone, the torque retaining the remains is close to zero, and I'd normally expect to be able to screw out the broken piece with my fingers.
It would be very unusual to find a wheel bolt that has actually corroded in place.
daimlerman
**BANNED**
Posts: 15968
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:00 pm
Location: Grumpy Old Man

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:31 am

I've never had this happen to me,so can only talk the theory!

The bolt tightens against the wheel on it's taper,so the torque is applied to the taper and the wheel,rather than the bolt thread/hub thread.

I expect that over time,the bolt will weaken and eventually snap.

What I have done is to lose a wheel bolt from not tightening,and on one car that I used a thin spacer with I found that the last 3 or 4 mm of the hub thread was rusted and reluctant to take a bolt when the spacer was removed.
Youth is wasted on the young.
clydesdale
E30 Zone Regular
E30 Zone Regular
Posts: 296
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:00 pm
Location: New York, USA

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:04 am

Brian, does that apply to when the bolt snaps trying to remove it as well? I have to ask because the car and I are not in the same location and need to plan ahead from the computer. I would love to get to the car to find out that it will thread right out.
spiny
E30 Zone Newbie
E30 Zone Newbie
Posts: 94
Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2010 11:00 pm

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 4:01 pm

if mole grips won't shift it, weld a nut onto whats left of the bolt.
clydesdale
E30 Zone Regular
E30 Zone Regular
Posts: 296
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:00 pm
Location: New York, USA

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 4:34 pm

I think I may try to double nut it and turn the innermost nut only with a wrench or spanner.
Ziggy
E30 Zone Team Member
E30 Zone Team Member
Posts: 11534
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Location: floating round my tin can...

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 4:48 pm

Front or rear wheel? If it comes to it, a front hub swap is not a big job...
E30 in need of wiring loom smoke since April '11...
mrLEE30
E30 Zone Team Member
E30 Zone Team Member
Posts: 6589
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:00 pm
Location: Sweating buckets in Bahrain

Post Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:09 pm

Try a small drill bit (4/5mm) but set in reverse, it may bite enough to loosen it, if not then drill a small hole a few mm deep, then using liquid metal or good metal glue stick an old Allen key into the hole- no glue on the threads!! Then normally easy to unscrew.
Image
clydesdale
E30 Zone Regular
E30 Zone Regular
Posts: 296
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:00 pm
Location: New York, USA

Post Tue Jul 26, 2011 12:08 am

Well, I tried to double nut it, but there are not quite enough threads for the second nut. I was able to apply some torque, but it knocked the outer nut off. I am thinking about removing the hub and drilling from the back. Once it is weak I can turn it out with the long bolt end, without damaging the threads. Does this sound ok? How hard is it to remove the hub and what size socket will I need? Thanks.
User avatar
Brianmoooore
E30 Zone Team Member
E30 Zone Team Member
Posts: 49359
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm

Post Tue Jul 26, 2011 9:41 am

If its a front hub, there's a good chance that the bearing will disintegrate as you pull it off, and a new hub/bearing will be required anyway.
Still don't understand what's holding these remains in place. If there's any damage to the thread in the hub, it should be replaced as a matter of course. Wheels falling off at speed are inconvenient.