I can remove the rotor and grip it. But, I did not even try because I figured the hub would just turn and I had no way to stop it. I have heard that some people notch a cut in it to allow for a screw driver to turn the bolt. But, I did not think this would work because I thought it would take more torque. But, I am hearing that it is the taper that makes them so tight.
I snapped the bolt trying to remove the tire.
What is the best method to remove a broken wheel bolt?
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clydesdale
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e30topless
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if the wheel and disc/rotor is removed can you not get molegrips or similar onto whats left of the bolt?
i doubt there's any resistance on whats left in the hub ?
i doubt there's any resistance on whats left in the hub ?
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daimlerman
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You can stop the hub from turning by inserting two wheelbolts and a bar,let the bar rest on the deck to stop the hub turning whilst you wind the remains out with a pair of mole grips.
If you cannot grip the remains,you will either have to drill it out,or fit a new bearing/hub assembly.
If you cannot grip the remains,you will either have to drill it out,or fit a new bearing/hub assembly.
Youth is wasted on the young.
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clydesdale
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There is enough left to grab with vise-grips. But, I didn't even try because I figured it would be stuck in there. After all, I couldn't get it loose with a bolt head attached to it. But some say that they turn out easy. I just don't understand why, since I applied so much torque the head snapped off.
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Brianmoooore
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It's the friction between the taper of the bolt of the head and wheel, and the torque applied to the threads of the bolt caused by the bolt head seating that's responsible for the shearing of the bolt.
Once the head is gone, the torque retaining the remains is close to zero, and I'd normally expect to be able to screw out the broken piece with my fingers.
It would be very unusual to find a wheel bolt that has actually corroded in place.
Once the head is gone, the torque retaining the remains is close to zero, and I'd normally expect to be able to screw out the broken piece with my fingers.
It would be very unusual to find a wheel bolt that has actually corroded in place.
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daimlerman
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I've never had this happen to me,so can only talk the theory!
The bolt tightens against the wheel on it's taper,so the torque is applied to the taper and the wheel,rather than the bolt thread/hub thread.
I expect that over time,the bolt will weaken and eventually snap.
What I have done is to lose a wheel bolt from not tightening,and on one car that I used a thin spacer with I found that the last 3 or 4 mm of the hub thread was rusted and reluctant to take a bolt when the spacer was removed.
The bolt tightens against the wheel on it's taper,so the torque is applied to the taper and the wheel,rather than the bolt thread/hub thread.
I expect that over time,the bolt will weaken and eventually snap.
What I have done is to lose a wheel bolt from not tightening,and on one car that I used a thin spacer with I found that the last 3 or 4 mm of the hub thread was rusted and reluctant to take a bolt when the spacer was removed.
Youth is wasted on the young.
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clydesdale
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Brian, does that apply to when the bolt snaps trying to remove it as well? I have to ask because the car and I are not in the same location and need to plan ahead from the computer. I would love to get to the car to find out that it will thread right out.
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spiny
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if mole grips won't shift it, weld a nut onto whats left of the bolt.
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clydesdale
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I think I may try to double nut it and turn the innermost nut only with a wrench or spanner.
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Ziggy
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Front or rear wheel? If it comes to it, a front hub swap is not a big job...
E30 in need of wiring loom smoke since April '11...
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mrLEE30
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Try a small drill bit (4/5mm) but set in reverse, it may bite enough to loosen it, if not then drill a small hole a few mm deep, then using liquid metal or good metal glue stick an old Allen key into the hole- no glue on the threads!! Then normally easy to unscrew.

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clydesdale
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Well, I tried to double nut it, but there are not quite enough threads for the second nut. I was able to apply some torque, but it knocked the outer nut off. I am thinking about removing the hub and drilling from the back. Once it is weak I can turn it out with the long bolt end, without damaging the threads. Does this sound ok? How hard is it to remove the hub and what size socket will I need? Thanks.
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Brianmoooore
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If its a front hub, there's a good chance that the bearing will disintegrate as you pull it off, and a new hub/bearing will be required anyway.
Still don't understand what's holding these remains in place. If there's any damage to the thread in the hub, it should be replaced as a matter of course. Wheels falling off at speed are inconvenient.
Still don't understand what's holding these remains in place. If there's any damage to the thread in the hub, it should be replaced as a matter of course. Wheels falling off at speed are inconvenient.
