M30 start up, no fuel..Solved!

[martijn76]

I tried to start the m30 yesterday, it goes round but no fuel.
It's a m30 with '88 m20 engineloom in a prefacelift m20 car.
I took both the fuelhoses off, no petrol coming out either of them.
Switched the relais, fuse is ok.
Do I have to do something with pin 15?
What more can keep the pump from running?

Car side:



Engine side:

[Bristol_Jer]

Have you got 12v at the pump when you crank the engine?

[martijn76]

Didn't have any time left to check the pump.
My gues is not, the fuelpump was running fine before.
Earth cables are all connected, + also.

[martijn76]

-Pin 7 has power when key is turned on and when starting
-pump relays has 2 +, de green wires don't get power when starting/key on
-Fuse 11 has no power ever
-Injectors have power
-pin 15 from engine cable connected to ground gives fire...not doing that again.
-ECU has got power, instruments/lights/fan etc work

Any ideas why the pump doesn't get spark?
I also changed the two connectors for crankshaftsensor and sparkplug, no effect.

[martijn76]

Bridged the relay and then the pump does it's job.
Can't start though.
I'm gonna try an other crankshaftsensor, if that doesn't work I will give the e34 loom a go.

[leeparkes]

Are you getting a spark?

[martijn76]

Just checked, no spark either.
Coil does get power.
I thought 'just swap the e30 for an e34 loom', but that's not so easy anymore ones it's in the car. Tommorow I will receive a good crankshaftsensor, maybe that will do the trick.
Does a bad sensor also prevents the spark?

[martijn76]

Meassured the crank sensor, it's ok.
I'm getting a bit frustrated here...
Wha I'm not sure about; pin 8 on the engine plug is used, on the car-end it is not.
This should be the idle speed to the DME, on the motronic it's pin 4 and 22.
What to do with pin 8?

[Rav335uk]

"To get the 'economy swingometer thingy' working you need to swap pins in the M30 loom:
Pin 3 (black and white) and pin 8 (black and purple). "

[martijn76]

I'm using the m20 loom for now.

[martijn76]

Still trying to figure this out.
On the Motronic conector the following have power in 'ON':
1
4
5
13
16
17
18
22
23(weak)
27
37

According to my drawings, the engine should start... Am I missing something here?
Haven't received another crank sensor yet.

[Bristol_Jer]

When you say 'Motronic connector', do you mean the ECU plug?

I've actually got a similar problem to you, went to start my m30 converted car yesterday and no power going to the fuel pump. Turns over fine on the starter. Haven't checked much yet, just changed the fuel pump relay and checked voltage at the pump connector when cranking the engine. Will have a better look in the week and see whats wrong.

Pin 8 on the car side is a white and black wire, that sends the fuel rate to the instrument cluster according to my wiring list, so shouldn't stop the car from running if not connected?

[martijn76]

Took a while, but I found the source of my headache; the engine loom is faulty.
I measured the crankshaftsensor input, 47/48 and nothing, tried both connectors.
Already bought another m20 loom which was a 'just in case'-buy and on that one I did measure 550 ohm...
So next weekend I got some work to do and hopefully with a start-up.

[martijn76]

Headache is getting wordse...
Don't know where to look anymore.
Should there be + to one of the wires near the DME?

[martijn76]

IT RUNS!!!

Not only the loom was faulty, also the Motronic didn't work..
Got another one off a 7-er automatic and started immediately.
So probably the loom caused the DME to fail, it worked fine in the funfer.

[martijn76]

Just have to figure out why the swingy thing is going to the right when I open the throttle an the rev hardly moves.. Maybe I switched those wires.
Don't really care at the moment, just being happy right now

[Rav335uk]

Well done.

[martijn76]

Not running like it should...
First couple of miles were ok, but when it got to normal operating temperature it started sounding more and more like an impreza..
I meassured the ignitionwires, 2 where faulty; replaced the whole lot for Magnecors. Sparkplugs were brand new, but could be the wrong temp.
Runs a bit better but not like it should, CO too high and HC off. So one cilinder is not performing.
Today I''m gonna remove the rad again(last week also because the electric fan went up in smoke...) and change the distributor.
Hope that will solve he problem.
Anyone got an other idea, just in case?

[Rav335uk]

Try changing you Temp switch, which should have been replaced with an M20 one.

[martijn76]

Why changing the temp sensor? I used the m20 one for the instrument, the other one goes to the m30 motronic.

I think this was the problem, cheap Italian electronics...
I didn't over tighten it, this never happened with the distibuters I normally use.