my m52 swap (mines no more interesting but it's mine ha ha)

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kevo
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Post Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:29 pm

How do all,
i've got a 325i manual touring at present running single point open loop lpg system with a blos unit, which for the non lpg freaks is one step up from the most basic setup.

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Anyway i decided that i needed a little more pep in my life and toyed with the idea of going 2.7 m20 or even making a 2.8 m20. due to the costs involved which i thought were excessive i.e a rebuild and the mapping setup etc i thought an m52 was a better idea which seems as this is an m52 section i'm sure you'll all agree with haha.

anyway, i accquired my e34 m50 sump/dipstic and tube and oil pickup pump and kept on the lookout for a nice e36 328 to come into my life. i found myself an e46 double vanos car with a full sequential lpg system fitted down the road from me with 130k miles for £995. banging (not drunk yet ant :mad: -inside joke soz). i thought that will do nicely and will fit in a treat with a proper lpg setup too but alas i soon found out that the e46 runs a canbus wiring system and is unsuitable for conversion into an e30 without lots of hassle and also the double vanos unit attached to it isn't as suitable although i'm not sure why? but perhaps someone will come along and help out.

anyway today i saw a nice e36 advertised, it too had a full sequential prins lpg kit fitted and a pile of other breakable stuff like heated leather etc. she had 230k miles on her though but apparently the owner (of 10 years) had done the last 120k with the lpg kit fitted has changed the oil every 6k miles. hmm sounded good (if it were true?!). so i went to have a look and agreed a price over the phone for the car. half way to the place i had a phone call saying the engine is destroyed and hes going to have to scrap the car as it's now worthless?

slightly confused i asked what was going on? he then went on to explain that the crank sensor had been faulty and he tried to change it before i arrrived and had broken part of the casting holding the sensor and the engine was now naffed. i said i'll buy the car anyway for the right cheeky price of a bit more than what the scrappy man will give him and he agreed. i was happy with that as i thought the parts alone would make me my money back no problem if the engine was indeed ko'd.

imagine my surprise when i arrived and i gave him the cash and started to push it off his drive when he stopped me and said why don't i drive it off?
eh? he said it drives fine and runs ok but due to there being no crank sensor it doesn't run properly and proceeded to drive me about 4 miles in a big loop around his estate. he then showed me the defective cracked crank sensor part and also the brand new replacement he tried to fit before breaking it. he also handed me a wad a few inches thick of receipts for oil, filters and a load of other parts over the last 10 years.

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anyway i've towed her home and started her on the drive and left it idle for 20mins or so. the gas works perfectly and switches over seamlessly unlike my other setup. however the engine does run roughly unless i rev it to 1k on idle on both fuels. it revs pretty sweetly and does sound like it's a good un although theres a bit of white smoke coming out the back but i put this down to the lpg? it didn't lose any water in that short period and didn't over heat and also the heaters blew hot. so i'm hoping it's all there and going to be better when the crank sensor goes on.
below is a photo of the offending item which as yet i can't see where it came off from? but i'm sure real oem will help.

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Any ideas chaps? i haven't had a chance to look just yet as i've been writing this really long boring story haha.
anyway i'll keep you posted on whats going on so it may be of use to others and i'll try and get photos etc along the way.
cheers for letting me wear out your eyes and bore you ha
Kev
Last edited by kevo on Sun Jun 26, 2011 10:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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kevo
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Post Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:41 pm

just looked on realoem and i've discovered the offending item. it's the lump on the casting that the crank sensor runs through.
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it looks pretty removeable without splitting the engine to bits and i can ally weld the thing back together so that looks like a good start! :D
Kev
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Post Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:52 pm

I was reading the advert on ebay for that car this morning Kev, seemed like he was reluctant to let it go, how much did you bag it for then? :)

Once the sump is off you can change that front timing cover easy, no need to fck about welding 8)
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kevo
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Post Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:58 pm

where can you buy them from mister? i'd prefer a non welded one ideally but if it's going to cost then i'll weld it for free. i paid him £300 for it mister which i was more than happy with :D
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Post Sat Jun 25, 2011 11:00 pm

You burgled him :eek:

Ive got loads, maybe we can come to an arrangement?
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kevo
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Post Sat Jun 25, 2011 11:04 pm

just pm'd you about the lpg stuff mister sorry but it's already promised to a friend. i'll let you know if he doesn't go for it tho? what sort of money would you be after for one of my broken parts anyway mister?
cheers
Kev

i did feel really cheeky but you don't ask you don't get eh? haha
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Post Sat Jun 25, 2011 11:35 pm

Hey kev, that's a fine result you have there even if it costs you £50-100 for that part! (Which it won't) Looks bangin :D lol
Keep us updated and good luck with it mate 8)
Last edited by e30-EVN on Sat Jun 25, 2011 11:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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kevo
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Post Sat Jun 25, 2011 11:36 pm

cheers mister man, will do. fingers crossed the lump remains good and the crank sensor sorts it out.
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Post Sat Jun 25, 2011 11:38 pm

Can't believe how cheap 8O lol
A 2 door e30 with 8 cylinders, what could be better winkeye :D
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Post Sun Jun 26, 2011 11:44 am

Bargain mate :)

But you will need to remove the rocker cover to get that front plate off.Theres three bolts in the head that hold onto the front plate.
With a bit off luck it should all go well and you wont find any horrors like i did and end up stripping the head down and rebuilding it like i have.

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jimbob88
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Post Sun Jun 26, 2011 7:34 pm

cracking price for the car mate, i'll keep an eye on the thread as im doing the exact same engine myself :)
can i ask how many temp sensor ports yours has under the manifold at the front of the head? ive seen loads with 2 sensors and one outlet for the tb colant pipe but mine onlyn has 1 and the coolant putlet?
cheers and good luck with the swap :)
Last edited by jimbob88 on Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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kevo
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Post Sun Jun 26, 2011 7:55 pm

fingers crossed there'll be no lurking horrors, although i am in two minds whether to strip it down anyway? it's done 230k so theres gonna be wear but i also have all the receipts to prove the oil and filters have been done every 5k (bored in work today so went through them haha).

Jimbob, i haven't had a look at it yet really as i picked it up last night and was 12hr days today and only just got back in. i'll have a look see in the next day or two and let you know.
cheers misters
Kev
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Post Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:13 pm

thanks kev any info would be greatly appreciated
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e30-EVN
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Post Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:35 pm

My engine had 3 ports, 1 temp sensor-1 temp guage sender and 1 coolant outlet.
There are blocks out there that don't have the 3rd outlet as you have, pm danthe and ask him about what to do jimbob 8)
A 2 door e30 with 8 cylinders, what could be better winkeye :D
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Post Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:58 pm

thanks e30 kinda set my mind at rest abit ive been trawling realoem looking for the block with only 2 ports thinking i might have been stitched with a 2 litre of something lol .
its probably gonna need drilling and tapping the i reckon :)

sorry didnt mean to threadjack
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kevo
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Post Sun Jun 26, 2011 10:15 pm

no sweat on the hijack mister, it's not all about me haha. just got my hands on a spare c101 plug for the engine bay loom from glenn (thanks again mister), so it's creeping together slowly.
gonna try and glue that sensor bracket on tomorrow to see if it runs properly then get a new part when i change the sump. time will tell fingers crossed.
Kev
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Post Mon Jun 27, 2011 11:10 pm

quick update, i had a chance to get in the garage and see if i could get the car running properly. i have a new casing coming thanks to danthe, but for now i thought i'd try and glue the bracket back to where it should be with some araldite. hopefully if it takes and stays put i'll pop the new crank sensor on and see how the engine then runs.

here is the faulty part

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here is my heath robinson comedy jig to try and hold it into place while the araldite dries.

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jimbob88
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Post Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:02 am

haha loving the blue peter approach, must admit ive done it myself (if not worse) :)
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Post Tue Jun 28, 2011 9:49 pm

how do,
another update for you (if anyones intereted? :o: ). fitted the crank sensor and it runs well so thats all good :D i think my idling is a little off though so something perhaps isn't quite right. also it runs slightly worse on idle whilst on lpg. i think perhaps the idle control valve may need cleaning/replacing or theres a little leak somewhere in the system. are there any other common faults?
power wise the car pulls well and the vanos sounds quiet and revs freely so i think it's all good.

heres a final photo before the car gets stripped fully then eventually gets turned into a tin of beans.
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and then a photo of my e34 sump all cleaned and shinied up ready for fitting.

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Post Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:16 pm

kevo wrote: just got my hands on a spare c101 plug for the engine bay loom from glenn (thanks again mister),
no probs kev.
that sump looks much better than when i gave it to you :o:
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Post Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:39 pm

Nice 1 kev, its all in the detail mate. That sump looks great 8)
A 2 door e30 with 8 cylinders, what could be better winkeye :D
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Post Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:06 pm

Make sure you take that top baffle plate out of the sump.
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kevo
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Post Wed Jun 29, 2011 12:00 am

ah that needs to come out does it (baffle plate). didn't know that cheers mister.

got to get the e36 rad fan switch soon too, is it best to go to bmw or do gsf sell them too?

still pondering which box to use also, i have a notchy e36 328i box which i don't think i'll use, i also have a 320 m20 box too. my diff at the moment is a 3.91lsd but i have a 3.25 complete or bare 2.93/3.64/3.73 cwps. also there is another e36 328 box for sale cheaply locally so i could stick with all e36 stuff if required. i have a 325 prop on the car at the mo so i'm wondering which route to go?

any opinions?
Kev
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Post Wed Jun 29, 2011 8:45 am

ECP sell a fan switch but they doubled the price recently, used to be £8.50 odd, now its nearly £20, the BMW switch is £20+VAT so thats the one to buy 8)
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Post Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:43 pm

Hola everyone,
just an update, i've finally finished stripping and selling the shiny and shite parts of the car and am only left with a few bits and bobs which are lingering on ebay. unfortunately the heated leather seats didn't sell so i recycled them into something more useful for myself (as i don't own a couch) haha it looks a bit dull but it makes people laugh when they come round and is pretty comfy actually.

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Anyway i also removed the engine and LPG kit today, the engine is a mass of wires at the moment especially with all the extra lpg stuff.

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I thought it would be easier to remove the engine and box from the bottom rather than lifting it through the engine bay it went smoothly enough so i would recommend it to peeps in the future if you have the gear.

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I then removed the front panel to pull the engine out forwards.

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Right then, now i have a question for everyone, what exactly is this and do i need it? it looks to me like some sort of egr recirc type item? it is bolted to the throttle body btw after the MAF sensor.
also are there any other parts of that i can bin and don't need? obviously the air con compressor can go but can the charcoal canister and associated bumf?

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And any other parts i should be removing? i know about the ews and prop and diff, but is that all the required wiring? theres a few of the larger plugs in the engine bay (two right next to eachother) by the fusebox, is any of this required too?
cheers
Kev
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Post Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:49 pm

the extra throttle body is part of the traction control i think. probably safely binned as the ECU won't be getting any inputs from the ABS sensors to cut the throttle now. think that's how it works......watch as i get shot down :)

charcoal can and the vacuum unit for the exhaust (if it has one) can be binned.
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'88 e30 328i M52 track bint.
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kevo
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Post Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:54 pm

ahh that would make sense, it did have an asc button on the dash so it may well be that then, although that means i'll now need a new rubber boot.
cheers
Kev
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Post Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:59 pm

not that pricey from BMW when i bought mine new. make sure you get the right one though.
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kevo
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Post Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:11 pm

I've just a had a look on realoem and it doesn't have a part number for it so i guess i'll have to phone bmw methinks
cheers
Kev
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Post Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:14 pm

it's been asked many times on here. have a search in this section for inlet boot or similar and you will probably find dan or lee dishing out part numbers. :)
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Post Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:16 pm

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kevo
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Post Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:19 pm

cool cheers for that chaps. i'll phone cotswold in the morning.
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Post Fri Jul 08, 2011 8:45 pm

m50 throttle body pipe was £13 in bmw cardiff kev 8)
A 2 door e30 with 8 cylinders, what could be better winkeye :D
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kevo
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Post Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:17 pm

spookily enough i got mine today for £12.70 delivered brand new. absolutely ridiculously cheap i thought, especially when they wanted £27 for a thermostat and £88 for a pair of engine mounts.
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kevo
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Post Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:29 pm

bit of an update peeps. Death of my donor car, all good though, with all the parts i've stripped and weighed in etc i'm currently £250 up on what i paid for the car and i have all the engine/loom/lpg/box/prop/diff etc woohoo.
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Anyway, know i finally have some space again in the garage i started a quick play with the engine and removed the air con pump and bracketry etc and put it on the stand i have.
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