"Clunking" after H&R fitted

[GDBN]

Hi guys .... finally got the job finished (60/40 cup kit)...BUT

The front end clunks especially going over speed bumps (very slowly) or whenever the front is stretched or compressed. I definately did up the wishbone bolts to the right torque also the top mount bolts. I replaced the top mounts and spring rubbers (springs def sitting where they should). The only thing I can think of was tightening the shock collar into the tube ... Bentley says this should be tightened to around 130nm but I have no tool that can fit the collar properly ... especially to check the torque . I had a spanner with grooved teeth that just fitted the collar ... tightened as much by hand and than 5-10 good whacks with a hammer.

Is there anything I have missed or does anyone know if I have done something wrong ??????

Thanks,
G

[chu346]

Where is the noise from? Is it both sides?

Could it be some that you've left off like a brake line, or is it louder than that?

[Jamesb318is]

Did you disturb the antiroll bar drop links or any ball joints when you did it? If you split or hit them off you can sometimes give them play, or maybe loose?

[jonbuoy]

Did you refill the oil in the strut?

The reason for how tight the nut has to be is to hold the compression of the oil surrounding the shock.

If the strut is empty, this will be ya clonking

[Demlotcrew]

Did you refill the oil in the strut?

The reason for how tight the nut has to be is to hold the compression of the oil surrounding the shock.

If the strut is empty, this will be ya clonking

You dont need to fill the strut with oil to use the cup kit! It has gas shocks.

Andrew

[GDBN]

Having read Bentley it says that you should only put oil in the strut if using oil filled shocks as this dissipates the heat build up in the shock ... using gas filled it says oil is not necessary. The H&R shocks are gas filled so I didn't bother putting oil in.
As far as the anti roll bar goes .... I changed the bushes on it and tightened that properly.
The noise is coming from both sides and it is quite a loud clunk and you can feel it too.

G

[jonbuoy]

Did you refill the oil in the strut?

The reason for how tight the nut has to be is to hold the compression of the oil surrounding the shock.

If the strut is empty, this will be ya clonking

You dont need to fill the strut with oil to use the cup kit! It has gas shocks.

Andrew

Would'nt have thought it would matter being the same size shock, you still have a minimal gap to fill. Just an idea but i still fill the gap for safe keeping

[Demlotcrew]

I bet the inner ball joints on the control arms are worn.

Andrew

[jonbuoy]

Having read Bentley it says that you should only put oil in the strut if using oil filled shocks as this dissipates the heat build up in the shock ... using gas filled it says oil is not necessary. The H&R shocks are gas filled so I didn't bother putting oil in.
As far as the anti roll bar goes .... I changed the bushes on it and tightened that properly.
The noise is coming from both sides and it is quite a loud clunk and you can feel it too.

G

Open the bonnet and bounce on the wing, make sure those top mount's are secure

[GDBN]

See your point on the inner ball joints but they wouldn't both suddenly do that just by changing springs and shocks .... surely ??? Never did it before !!
Have tried bouncing the wing with bonnet up and top mounts look ok .. will check them with torque wrench again.
Got to have her up again soon anyway to change the control arm bushes but think it has soԚ´mething to do with something I have done rather than something suddenly giving up ............

G

[Demlotcrew]

Was the car lowred at all before you did the springs?

Andrew

[Ant]

Good point there dude!

by lowering the car you have moved the ball in relation to the socket, assuming some wear has occured in the past, you will effectively shorten the life of the balljoints as they bed it to the new limits of their travel

[E30BeemerLad]

Nice bit of logic there Andrew

That was gonna be my suggestion, honest

[GDBN]

hi guys ... no .. it was sitting on the original set up.
So what is the solution ... new control arms ?? Or just the ball joint ??

Thanks for all your help too ......

G

[M5pilot]

I had exactly the same problem with my touring when I fitted the Cup kit. Loud clonking noise from both sides.

Changed both control arms and all was sorted.

Fit the powerflex eccentric bushes or M3 origional Eccentric bushes when you change your control arms. Powerflex ones will outlast the others by a long way and can be fitted without a press.

[GDBN]

do i need to get eccentric bushes ?? is it a must because it is lowered ?? just that I have already bought the standard ones

G

[M5pilot]

You dont have to buy them.

They do however make quite a difference to the steering.

Without getting techincal about it , what you feel on the road is better turn in, better braking stability, better high speed stability.

The powerflex ones are also a solid design and will outlast the life of the car. You do it once and thats it. They are only roughly 38 pounds aswell.

If youve already bought them and cannot give them back then I would still say buy them as they are excellent.

[GDBN]

Hi Sal .. thanks for the input ... I'll have a word with the guy I bought them from and see if he will change them. They also sell powerflex for the same price you do. Do they affect tyre wear at all and will it help the overall "set up" of it being lowered too ??
And also can I change these ball joints at home on the drive or does it require some hydraulic machine to get them in and out ??

Thanks ,

G

[Brianmoooore]

You need a press of some sort to change the ball joints, buts it'll be easier to fit new control arms complete with inner and outer ball joints as you're replacing the bushes anyway.
This is a relatively simple job for someone without workshop facillities.