What diagnostic tool and reset service light
Moderator: martauto
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gudgeon
- E30 Zone Regular

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For my M50, how do I reset the service indicator lights, and in general how do I get the engine diagnostic codes out?
Thanks
Thanks
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e30-EVN
- Old Skooler

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I bridged pins 7 and 19 to reset my service lights and I have my car plugged in locally to check codes. He charges me £25 for it 
A 2 door e30 with 8 cylinders, what could be better

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fixedwheelnut
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You can get Edibias/INPA software and leads on e-bay reasonably that works on BMWs up to 2006 prior to D-Can diagnosis.
You will need an old laptop with an RS232 port running Windoze XP
This is one of many on there, search around and see who gets good feedback
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ediabas-INPA-OBD- ... 3864wt_989
You will need an old laptop with an RS232 port running Windoze XP
This is one of many on there, search around and see who gets good feedback
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ediabas-INPA-OBD- ... 3864wt_989
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gudgeon
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Seem like a good idea to me to have this.
Thanks for your responses, is there a thread somewhere on bridging 7 and 19. I used to do this with the M20 is it the same process (timing etc)?
Thanks for your responses, is there a thread somewhere on bridging 7 and 19. I used to do this with the M20 is it the same process (timing etc)?
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blue30
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I use the bleepy function on my multimeter to get the codes out of my non-vanos. Its been a while since I've done it but you have to fiddle with the accelerator at key on and it starts grounding a pin which would light a dash light in the e36, but theres no light in my car hence the multimeter.
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gudgeon
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Can you do that!
I read about all that engine light stuff for my e30 but only the US version has the light (e30).
Which pins do you use? are they on the diagnostics connector?
I read about all that engine light stuff for my e30 but only the US version has the light (e30).
Which pins do you use? are they on the diagnostics connector?
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e30-EVN
- Old Skooler

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If you are refering to the stomp test it doesn't work in an e30,,, not that I can see anyway! I've tried and it does nothing. I have mine pluged in, best way 
A 2 door e30 with 8 cylinders, what could be better

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blue30
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This is with the e36 ECU in an e30 - there's loads on google about the 'stomp test'. I can't remember if it was a pin in the diag connector I used or a probe in the big bulkhead connector. With my digital multimeter it didn't read quick enough to be able to read the codes, but with the meter in continuity/beeper mode between ground and the CEL pin it beeped where in the original E36 the light would light, and it was dead easy to hear what the codes were. Was a big help for me diagnosing a faulty lambda.
I think I still have the pinout I used at home, will post back if so.
I think I still have the pinout I used at home, will post back if so.
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DanThe
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Its the grey wire from the ECU, I wired mine into the green diesel start light on the clocks

Worked great on the non vanos engine but I dont think it works with vanos engines

Worked great on the non vanos engine but I dont think it works with vanos engines
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gudgeon
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Damn! not on Vanos, can anyone confirm?
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Brianmoooore
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The engine fault light will work on a vanos engine - mine's wired to the orange diesel heat light, but AFAIK it just indicates that a fault is present. I'm not aware of any way to read codes from it.
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gudgeon
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DanThe
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I think I wired one on a M50 vanos conversion a few years ago but it wasnt working like the non vanos light did, cant remember the exact differences but it definitely wasnt blinking codesBrianmoooore wrote:The engine fault light will work on a vanos engine - mine's wired to the orange diesel heat light, but AFAIK it just indicates that a fault is present. I'm not aware of any way to read codes from it.
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Brianmoooore
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When I did my first M50 conversion, around 6 years ago, the light would come on after several seconds of running, and had to be cleared by disconnecting the battery. I worked out this was because of the missing tank vent valve, so replaced this with a resistor, and haven't seen the light on since.
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gudgeon
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wonder what I did with the grey wire? Probably chopped it off.
I guess I should just try this and report back.
I guess I should just try this and report back.
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Brianmoooore
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The grey wire is present on M20 engine looms as well.
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gudgeon
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Where does it go to then?
If it goes to the diagnostic plug, or the main connector plug, then I'll have left it.
If it was left hanging somewhere, I'll have traced it back and eliminated it.
I left an inch on all the ones I hacked off though, so it can be resurrected.
If it goes to the diagnostic plug, or the main connector plug, then I'll have left it.
If it was left hanging somewhere, I'll have traced it back and eliminated it.
I left an inch on all the ones I hacked off though, so it can be resurrected.
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gudgeon
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Main connector, pin8 on M50, pin 12 on M20 right?
Then I'll have wired it up. Wonder where it goes in the car? OBC?
Then I'll have wired it up. Wonder where it goes in the car? OBC?
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Brianmoooore
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The grey wire needs to go to one side of a 12 volt 1.2W bulb, with the other side going to switched ignition live (plain green wire). A spare ABS warning light, or the ones from the headlamp adjuster illumination can be used, and will fit in a couple of the spare holes on the back of the cluster.
