clio servo spacer not required?

Post Sun Apr 17, 2011 7:11 pm

Another solution, just make sure you use a bit of thread lock to stop it adjusting itself

Post Sat Apr 23, 2011 5:32 pm

Yesterday i was all chuffed with myself.Got a bit bored so i thought may as well fit the clio servo now as aposed to doing it with the lump swap.
After a couple of hours job was all done (so i thought).
Took it for a spin to check that all was working and all seemed well,hit em hard after a bit and thought i was going to go through the w screen.

Gets in it this afternoon and the pads are binding a bit

Tried adjusting the the rod to the pedal but not much difference i can still feel a slight drag when rolling down hill.
I`ll have to shave a bit off the spacer,see if that helps

Post Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:26 pm

Or wind the rod in a thread or two, as explained above

Post Sat Apr 23, 2011 7:23 pm

Tbh I didn't fancy unsrewing this rod. Used a 20mm spacer as above ^^^
Left push rod in its stock position so as not to interfere with it and by my way of thinking,, the longer you wind the rod out the weaker it can become.

Post Sun Apr 24, 2011 11:58 am

If u get a long bit of m6 stud u can wind it right down to the bottom, still put some thread lock on, then do the cutting and filing for the fine adjustment to match the e30 push rod psition.

I know what u mean about the thread being a weakness. On my first conversion i uwound the thread to get adjustment and then teste the pedal fairly hard and stripped the threads as the pin got pushed back in. Fairly dangerous.

Then had to get new servo and start all over.

Post Sun Apr 24, 2011 1:02 pm

A good point!
I've put about 5000 miles on my m50 and my brakes feel as sharp as they did when I first did it.
Not all e30's will need a 20mm spacer like in my case, and I know the clio servo is adjustable but that is there to fine tune the brakes on the car it was made for (clio), so maybey a few mm is safe but I feel when a 10-20mm adition is needed this isn't a safe way to go about it.

Post Wed Sep 07, 2011 4:18 pm

Yup. I wound mine out about as much as I thought would be safe and used blue threadlock to make sure it wouldn't move. It wasn't enough though and I recently added a ~10mm spacer into the master cylinder.

So basically you'll need a spacer, but the small adjustments can be made with the threaded pushrod.

Post Wed Sep 07, 2011 6:07 pm

the thread on the rod is difficult to match as it is a fine thread. ive bought some m6 threaded rod (studding) and it dont fit as the thread is slightly too course

currently looking for a supplier for fine threaded m6 rod

Post Sat Oct 08, 2011 5:13 pm

I got a clio servo fitted. but found it a bit confusing trying to explain to someone what was required. I've heard mention of a spacer but I've no idea where this actually goes.
I was using the E30 Master Cylinder, should the clio one be fitted instead? I was thinking this as when the rod (the one with the dome head) goes into the master cylinder, it seems like its too thin and just rattles around in there.

I'm not doing the work myself, I am getting a friend to do it, so its tricky to try and explain something to them just from reading snippets on here.

Post Sat Oct 08, 2011 5:25 pm

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 76#2203176

Post Sat Oct 08, 2011 6:09 pm

Tbh asking anybody to do a job they have no idea about is not a good idea, either do it yourself and take your time working things out as you go or find someone to do it that knows the crack

Post Sat Oct 08, 2011 9:56 pm

+1 definatly a wise point..... I mean we are taking about custom fitting a piece to make ""brakes"" work like!!

Post Thu Jan 05, 2012 2:18 pm

Let me revive this thread as it's kinda related to my problem.

My brake pedal still has some play even though I added a 20mm spacer to the clio servo. I guess I still have to adjust the pushrod somewhat. What's the best way I can remove the master cylinder to adjust the pushrod? I don't want to evacuate the brake fluid if that's possible.

Post Thu Jan 05, 2012 3:39 pm

If you have copper brake pipes, you will probably get away with moving the master cylinder off the servo with the pipes still attached as they are quite flexible. If you are on the original BMW steel pipes then you may be best undoing them from the master cylinder otherwise you risk breaking them.

Post Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:04 pm

I did this last week and my spacer came to about 23mm in length (one end had a recess to enable a snug fit on to the push rod).