S54'd e30 (FLORIDA)

Post Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:32 am

turk wrote:So, today I finally made up mu gear selector. After lots of grinding drilling and welding i can finally change gears not that I have a prop to drive anywhere but hey

Lovely

Post Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:12 am

Errr.. Functional...?

Post Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:58 am

Yup! Looks ugly but its solid and works

with the amount of f***ing about u have to do with angles and positioning im just glad it works

Also now have a prop that fits too, so when its not freezing or pissing it down I will get out there and get her running

Post Mon Jan 31, 2011 7:46 pm

turk wrote:Yup! Looks ugly but its solid and works with the amount of f***ing about u have to do with angles and positioning im just glad it works

Also now have a prop that fits too, so when its not freezing or pissing it down I will get out there and get her running

don't want to knock your efforts but I would be surprised if your linkage will last long term. There should only be a straight rod, no angles (except 90deg).
there is a lot of force when you yank the lever in a drag race!

Post Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:02 pm

As i say all i have done in essence is chop loads out of the middle and twist it too.

look at no 10 in the diagram.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=25&fg=05

its not where near straight when u chop out the straight down the middle. Aside from making a complete new one (which I may do everntually) i think this will do for now, its only a weekender too.

we shall see, If it breaks i will make a new one.

Post Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:13 pm

Did you fit a rod up the middle of it? Thats what I did with mine, 10mm bolt IIRC, even so its a very heavy duty piece, approx 4mm wall thickness!

Post Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:18 pm

i put a bit of chopped bolt in the centers where i welded. Im fairly confident it will hold up.
As Dan says its quite heavy duty.

Post Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:30 pm

turk wrote:As i say all i have done in essence is chop loads out of the middle and twist it too.

look at no 10 in the diagram.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=25&fg=05

its not where near straight when u chop out the straight down the middle. Aside from making a complete new one (which I may do everntually) i think this will do for now, its only a weekender too.

we shall see, If it breaks i will make a new one.

Look at no 10 in the diagramm. Check the alignment ot the two pins to each other. They are aligned (or "straight" in very loose terms). Yours are on an angle to each other, this is where they might break, not where you welded the bits together.
apart from that, I wonder how your gear leaver sits?

Post Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:41 pm

Thought it was time for an update, plus a few queries.

I have now completed the physical build, engine, gbox, prop, exhaust ALL DONE

YEY!

I am Having issue with the brakes. Im using clio servo, e30 mc and Mazda 4 pot calipers. Have had a play with the rod and i think its where it needs to be. Bled the system, and now when i press the pedal it gives me minimal resistance before sinking to the floor. Even softer when engine in running obviously. It does have abs and im wondering whether its something to do with that?

Now engine turns over and idles nicely

But its sounding very tappety. I have only started her 3/4 times for less then a minute. The engine was on a stand before it was shoved in the car so all the oil had drained out completely.

Will this tapping go once it runs for a bit?

I am getting no rev reading on the dials. Im guessing this could be down to the coding plug as the original is for an 325E, revs only show up to 5k anyways. If I change the plug do u think it will solve my issue?

I am using an e28 rad and have a 3 pin temp plug. I do also have the identical plug on the e30 loom. Now because im going to be resusing the aircon on the car, how do I set it up so the fan kicks in at 80 degrees ish and when the aircon is switched on? Im using a slimline 16" spal fan with +- presumably one speed.

As usual thanx in advance for all the help!

Have an mot booked weds so need the bastard to be pucker

Post Fri Mar 25, 2011 6:26 pm

Sounds like you have air in the system or a leak

Are you using the correct oil?

If you want the fan to come on at 80 degrees you need an 80/88 degree rad switch, if you look on the side of the switch the temps are stamped into the brass

Post Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:24 pm

I have bled the system, I can do it again tho to make sure, would the abs be affecting this at all?

Oil I am using bmw M-oil 10/60 Tsw Castrol.

How do i go about wiring the switch in to the new fan? And will it still work with the aircon?

Cheers

Post Fri Mar 25, 2011 10:17 pm

The ABS pump can be difficult to bleed, especially if its been drained.
Assuming your car already had aircon? Just cut the two wires from the old fan and rejoin to the new fan.

I managed to find one of those special release bearings BTW, they are proper job

Do you have full clutch now? Moved the car yet?

Post Fri Mar 25, 2011 10:21 pm

Clutch seems perfect now, Havnt moved it yet. Thought brakes would be sensible first

So whats the best way to bleed the abs pump?

Yes car already has aircon.

Those bearings are perfect fot the job. takes up the difference between the old version of the diesel flywheels aparently.

Post Fri Mar 25, 2011 10:38 pm

I usually just slacken the outlet pipes on the pump and watch the air bubble out.
I got offered another one of those boxes cheap yesterday but cringed at the thought

Post Fri Mar 25, 2011 10:43 pm

never again

Post Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:27 pm

HAH, Just called insurance and they asked for £8900

told them to f-off!

Can anyone recommend a good modified insurance company>?

Post Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:29 pm

Shouldn't you have done that BEFORE you built the car?! LOL!

Post Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:41 pm

Hah probably

I have some quotes for around £1200. im 24 with 6 points so that not bad i guess.. need more quotes tho, wanna get this down!

Post Mon Mar 28, 2011 3:30 pm

Bit the bullet time now Turk for the insurance

Post Mon Mar 28, 2011 3:30 pm

Bit the bullet time now Turk for the insurance

Post Mon Mar 28, 2011 5:24 pm

DanThe wrote:I usually just slacken the outlet pipes on the pump and watch the air bubble out.
I got offered another one of those boxes cheap yesterday but cringed at the thought

They would be a good box for some stubborn sod trying to make an M20 quicker and some way refined though

Some insurance quote!!! Thats dearer than the cost of the car and engine swap and in this case, thats saying something :lol:

Post Thu Mar 31, 2011 1:57 pm

My abs light won't go out at all! What's causing this?

I have An m20 brown temp sender also not working. Could it just be a duff sensor?

Rad temp switch isn't turning canon either. I have wired it up as peraircon setup. What am I doing wrong?

Also rev gauge isn't working. Gould this be because the old engine is an eta and the new is an s54?

Cheers for help

Post Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:57 pm

turk wrote:My abs light won't go out at all! What's causing this?

I have An m20 brown temp sender also not working. Could it just be a duff sensor?

Rad temp switch isn't turning canon either. I have wired it up as peraircon setup. What am I doing wrong?

Also rev gauge isn't working. Gould this be because the old engine is an eta and the new is an s54?

Cheers for help

wasn't there an instruction of how to wire the rev counter up
with the ECU reflash??

Post Thu Mar 31, 2011 7:52 pm

Engine speed to the cluster is via canbus AFAIK, id be interested to know how else you can get the signal to the clocks?

Post Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:53 pm

DanThe wrote:Engine speed to the cluster is via canbus AFAIK, id be interested to know how else you can get the signal to the clocks?

he had the ECU flashed from my mate in Germany and there is a analoge signal provided to keep the E30 revcounter working.
Should be all in the instructions.

Post Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:56 pm

I was told the output coding was altered for the e30 cluster. So should be plug and play. I havee mailled the guy but not yet had a reply. So thought I'd ask. I think the signal is different for the eta engines. Gonna try a different coding plug.

Got temp sensor working. Had forgotten to reconnect the ground cable. :s

let the engine heat up and the fan still didn't turn on. Had to manually turn it on by pressing the aircon button.
Mot tmrw. Fingers crossed

Post Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:18 pm

Anyone know of a reasonable thatcham 2 alarm installer ? It's an insurance requirement.

Post Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:20 pm

MOT'd?

My Toad alarm/immob came with a blank fitting cert from the company I bought it off on ebay

Post Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:18 am

Failed mot on abs light. ( I found out yesterday the small ecu is for the abs and not auto trans) so that should be ok. Fog light tell tail light isn't working so need a bulb. And one of the brakes is binding constantly. I think this is servo adjustment. I'm gonna get the work done today and remot tuesday.

How much was your alarm?

Post Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:25 am

£120 odd

Post Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:26 pm

WAHOOO MOT & Taxed.

Post Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:36 pm

Nice, got all your gauges working now?

Post Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:54 pm

everything bar the revs

Ill be looking over it on the weekend.

For some reason it doesnt feel quite right. Cant tell what it is, it kind of hesitates slightly when u put your foot down. Havnt had the balls to give it the beans yet

Its also a bit clicky, I think the shims may need adjusting.

As they say, now the work begins

Post Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:01 pm

Hows the clutch? I changed mine the other day and used the same release bearing as yours, fitted it in the highest position with no other spacers anywhere and its perfect

Post Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:31 pm

fitted it in the highest position with no other spacers anywhere and its perfect

Yup, Its perfect

A good solution, Im not sure I like the gear rations with my diff tho. Not sure what ratio it is yet.

The engine is hesitating for some reason tho. I cant figure out why

Ive checked for air leaks and there are none I can find. oil levels is good too...