Oil leak at filter housing

[GDBN]

HI again ... last one for tonight as I'm off to the pub for the footy ...
I have 2 oil leaks ... one is I think from the camshaft oil seal but won't know for good until I have the rad out and have a proper look.
The other is completely new .... There is a cylinder looking thing next to and under where the oil filter suíts with "purolator PLC10" written on it. Oil is dripping from the bottom of this.
Is there any easy fix to this problem that you know of ??

G

[Brianmoooore]

HI again ... last one for tonight as I'm off to the pub for the footy ...
I have 2 oil leaks ... one is I think from the camshaft oil seal but won't know for good until I have the rad out and have a proper look.
The other is completely new .... There is a cylinder looking thing next to and under where the oil filter suíts with "purolator PLC10" written on it. Oil is dripping from the bottom of this.
Is there any easy fix to this problem that you know of ??

G

I take it this is a M20 with an oil cooler?
If your down to two oil leaks with a M20, then you're doing well.
Oil filter housing leak is very common. There's a small kit iof parts available from the dealer.

[GDBN]

thx brian ... you know what it involves ??? and is it a big job ??

Giles

[Brianmoooore]

Involves removing a circlip (beware the spring inside), pulling out the old bits and pushing in the bits in the kit, then replacing the circlip.
Dead easy, if a bit inaccesible.

[GDBN]

Thx again .... don't suppose anyone has part numbers ... tried to explain to someone today and got really lost translating it!!

G

[G-Bear]

Just did a search for Purolator. This thread came up so thought I'd recycle it rather than start a new one.

I have a leak here. It drips when the engine is running, On the diagram below it appears to come from where the line from '3' is written, although I could be wrong...



Brianmooore (if you're reading) or anyone else, is the kit that you mentioned on this diagram?

Here's my leak

[clipper]

Your leak looks to be coming from the "purolator" aka thermo-valve....

The kit is part 3 in the ETK diagram and as Brian says is "easy" if a bit messy and uncomfortable, to fit

[G-Bear]

Your leak looks to be coming from the "purolator" aka thermo-valve....

The kit is part 3 in the ETK diagram and as Brian says is "easy" if a bit messy and uncomfortable, to fit

Thanks clipper, part number three says on the Real OEM thats its the oil filter head its self... or is that the 'kit'..?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=30

[Brianmoooore]

#7 is the kit. New plug, O ring and circlip.

[G-Bear]

#7 is the kit. New plug, O ring and circlip.

Thanks I thought that might be the one

[clipper]

Sorry. Senior moment.....

[clipper]

Sorry. Senior moment.....

[mcbonio]

I've done this fix myself, not a terribly hard job. I did need my brother to push the valve back inside with a rod as I got the circlip in place. Quite fiddly especially as its all greasy too.

Take care removing the old valve as that spring inside flies out with some force and will shower everything with oil, including your head as I found out.!

[G-Bear]

Cheers mcbonio, I was prepping for an oil on face procedure..

clipper no worries...

[Morat]

***Thread necro alert ***

I'm looking at doing this myself now.... would a set of circlip pliers be
A) not required
B) Useful if you have some
C) well worth buying

for this little procedure?

[Grrrmachine]

G-Bear wrote the Wiki article for this:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... eplacement

[G-Bear]

You don't need circlip pliers for this Morat. Have a look through the wiki guide that Grrrmachine's linked in. If you get stuck on anything. Let me know, not that there's much more to know but I help if I can..

[bmw9818]

7 year thread revival! damn

[Morat]

7 year thread revival! damn

Search function ftw

I'm a bit gutted this looks like it has to be done from underneath. I don't have any level ground nearby and I'm sick of begging - especially if I'm likely to drop oil

Ah well, it's nothing that has to be done immediately. I've ordered the parts, I'll wait till the next oil change. Hopefully the oil leak will stop some corrosion in the meantime

[Brianmoooore]

Doesn't have to be done from underneath if you undo the cooler pipes. Slacken the bolt holding the assembly to the block, and rotate it to a more accessible position.

[Morat]

Thanks Brian. Stand by for the "how do I replace rounded off oil cooler lines?" post next weekend

[bmw_325i]

You could remove the head to fit the new gasket set, i just did this.

The circlip was still a right pain in the arse as the gasket is sooo tight going in. Cant imagine how difficult this would be still attached to the block. Would recommend a new head->block o-ring 11421265670 at the same time.


I have a related question - i knackered at least one oil cooler pipe o-ring by leaving it in the head... the end of the pipe crushed it when it went in at a slight angle.

Will i need to drain the oil in order to disconnect the pipes to replace the o-ring? Ie will i lose a lot of lovely fresh oil doing it this way?

[bmw_325i]

Bump

[Brianmoooore]

There will be leakage of the oil actually in the pipe, but no more than half a cup full.

[bmw_325i]

Great, that's what i was hoping.

Thanks mate