head bolts torque

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craigieeb
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Post Thu Feb 10, 2005 9:38 pm

does anyone have the correct torque settings for the head bolts??


i think it's somthing like 22 foot pound then 90 degree turn then another 90 degree turn, but im not sure :mad: so can anyone tell me how close or how far off the scale i have went, i would appreciate it : )

cheers :D
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E30Adam
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Post Thu Feb 10, 2005 11:06 pm

Might help if you told us which engine.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Thu Feb 10, 2005 11:17 pm

Ther's an updated way of torquing head bolts that I saw somewhere recently. Wrote it down, but can't find it.
craigieeb
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Post Thu Feb 10, 2005 11:48 pm

E30Adam wrote:Might help if you told us which engine.
well both the 320i and the 325i, would be great
as the 320 is getting put back together after i blew it up with the nitrous, and the 2.5 engine isn't finished yet but i'll need the torque figures for when i bolt it all together dude : )
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 12:11 am

According to Bentley book of many words you are right i.e. for Torx head bolts it's 22ft/lb then 90 and 90 again.
craigieeb
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 12:16 am

:woohoo: cheer's 325tracky just what i was looking for m8 :cheers:


(is that the same for both engines??)
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E30Adam
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 12:49 pm

My Bentley manual says 30nm then 90 degrees twice
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craigieeb
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 1:17 pm

for what engine adam?
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 1:31 pm

craigieeb wrote:for what engine adam?
For the M20 engine. I've just fitted my head using the 30nm setting.

8nm isn't a great difference so it probably doesnt really matter, i always like to be spot on when it comes to cylinder heads though!!!
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craigieeb
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 1:34 pm

yeah same here m8, i'll set the ratchet to 30 then fella : )

cheers.
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 2:38 pm

22ft/lb = 30nm :wink:
craigieeb
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 2:42 pm

:cool: :cheers:
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 5:53 pm

325tracky wrote:22ft/lb = 30nm :wink:
Ahhhhhhhhh

Smart Arse! :P
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Brianmoooore
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 8:35 pm

Half sure I read somewhere that this method has been superceeded by one that involves starting the engine in the middle of it, or backing off the bolts and retorqueing, or something.
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 10:05 pm

That's for the older non-torx head bolts. The Bently lists both methods although BMW recommended replacing my hexagon headed bolts with the torx version when I once had a service with them (note just the once!) as apparently the hexagon headed bolts had a habit of breaking! All replacement head bolts I have ever bought for the M20 (and that's quite a few sets!) are always torx now.
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 10:37 pm

M3GTR wrote:That's for the older non-torx head bolts. The Bently lists both methods although BMW recommended replacing my hexagon headed bolts with the torx version when I once had a service with them (note just the once!) as apparently the hexagon headed bolts had a habit of breaking! All replacement head bolts I have ever bought for the M20 (and that's quite a few sets!) are always torx now.
Yeah all set's I've bought are torx too. I can't imagine starting the engine part way through, I do up the head bolts before sorting out the timing belt.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Fri Feb 11, 2005 10:50 pm

I'm not confusing this with the method of changing hex bolts one at a time. This is a newer method of torqueing up torx bolts.
Someone else must have seen it somewhere.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sat Mar 05, 2005 11:01 pm

Found it! Was posted by temp18e30 on the old zone.
He said it was arevised system for tightening head bolts that he found on the TIS.
1/ Torque to 40NM

2/ Wait 15 minutes

3/ Torque to 65NM

4/ adjust valves

5/ warm up for 25 minutes

6/ Angle tighten 25 degrees.

Anyone know if this is a revised method, or a superceeded one from an old TIS?
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Post Sat Mar 05, 2005 11:12 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Found it! Was posted by temp18e30 on the old zone.
He said it was arevised system for tightening head bolts that he found on the TIS.
1/ Torque to 40NM

2/ Wait 15 minutes

3/ Torque to 65NM

4/ adjust valves

5/ warm up for 25 minutes

6/ Angle tighten 25 degrees.

Anyone know if this is a revised method, or a superceeded one from an old TIS?
Sounds like a bit of agro doing it that way. Can you imagine a workshop having to waste 25 minutes warming the car up, I guess they'd be charging the customer for it but still, seems a bit odd.

If I'm fitting a new head, I always adjust the valves before I fit it too, makes it a little easier.
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