When I fitted my E36 'rack, I put the mount spacers above the 'rack.
I'm wondering if I've done the right thing, as there isn't any definitive information regarding the E30/E36 "upgrade".
So, to those of you who have done this - which is your preferred position for the spacers?
Top (like mine)?
Bottom?
Half & half?
TIA
Stuart.
Another E36 Steering Rack Fitment Query
Moderator: martauto
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StuBeeDoo
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The only reason I went top was at the time I fitted the rack I was in a bit of a hurry (as I usually am....) and it just seemed to make sense as the spacers are custom-made solid 15mm ones.asmith88 wrote:havent tried the other two, but the top seems to feel right,
Now I'm not happy as the pinion housing is actually hard against the crossmember, so I've bought some 2.5mm stainless steel washers.
The weather's noot looking good today so hopefully I can get some garage time and make some comparisons with the old E30 rack and some experimentation.
- Brianmoooore
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The spacers should be positioned so that the rack is in the exact same position relative to the rest of the suspension as the original E30 one was. Any deviations results in bump steer.
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daimlerman
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To enlarge on Brian' post,Stu,the steering arms and rack height should be the same distance from the road at normal ride height,and parralell to the road.
When I fitted power r/p steering to my Daimler some years back,I suffered from bump steer,I eventually discovered that the rack was 1mm higher on one side,a single spacer washer was all that was needed.
You need to establish a datum point that is absolutely level,and measure off that to the 4 points mentioned.
When I fitted power r/p steering to my Daimler some years back,I suffered from bump steer,I eventually discovered that the rack was 1mm higher on one side,a single spacer washer was all that was needed.
You need to establish a datum point that is absolutely level,and measure off that to the 4 points mentioned.
Youth is wasted on the young.
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StuBeeDoo
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^^ Thank you both. 
I haven't done anything today as the rack won't go any higher than it is - something is blocking it and I can't get the car high enough to see what.
Re bump steer - as it's set up at the minute it's actually got less bump steer than it had with the E30 rack.
I'm just a little concerned about the pinion housing being wedged against the crossmember.
Maybe what I'll do next time I have the rack out is "adjust" the crossmember slightly.
I haven't done anything today as the rack won't go any higher than it is - something is blocking it and I can't get the car high enough to see what.
Re bump steer - as it's set up at the minute it's actually got less bump steer than it had with the E30 rack.
Maybe what I'll do next time I have the rack out is "adjust" the crossmember slightly.
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daimlerman
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From my investigations into bump steer,I learnt that as the suspension moves up and down,this alters the effective length of the rack in relation to the wheels,the effect is to change the 'toe in' and' toe out'.
Now when both front wheels rise or fall together,this does not affect the way the car steers,the problems start when only one front wheel rises or falls in relation to the other,a diagonal ridge across a road,or a pothole that one wheel falls into are two examples.
By setting up the rack parralell with the ground,and at the same hieght as the steering arms,you will minimize the change in toe angle,and thus the effect of bump steer.
Other things also effect bump steer,I have noticed that my touring bump steers under certain conditions,which is most likely down to the polybushes limiting 'side to side' movement on the TCA's.
I'm still running the stock rack,of course,due to potential clearance issues with my exhaust!
Now when both front wheels rise or fall together,this does not affect the way the car steers,the problems start when only one front wheel rises or falls in relation to the other,a diagonal ridge across a road,or a pothole that one wheel falls into are two examples.
By setting up the rack parralell with the ground,and at the same hieght as the steering arms,you will minimize the change in toe angle,and thus the effect of bump steer.
Other things also effect bump steer,I have noticed that my touring bump steers under certain conditions,which is most likely down to the polybushes limiting 'side to side' movement on the TCA's.
I'm still running the stock rack,of course,due to potential clearance issues with my exhaust!
Youth is wasted on the young.
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StuBeeDoo
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Interesting!DHFiS wrote:If the rack to too close to the sump then you can get noise between the two.
I had this problem until I mounted the rack centrally wit a spacer above and below.
I've got a noise that I'd swear is the PAS pump but that wasn't noisy before I changed the rack. I've changed the fluid twice since and it's clean but the noise is still there. I was wondering if the noise is being caused by the pinion housing/crossmember contact issue which was why I had a go at raising the rack to halfway (7.5mm spacers above and below, rather than 15mm above).
i had a noise, which turned out to be the rack hitting the sump, hacksaw soon sorted that, however the pump is noisy now as well, should be fairly obvious if the pump is whining, can you rev the engine with your head stuck in the bonnet and listen to pump?
1990 brilliant red 318 is
if you lower the car like 6cm, that would make the effect even bigger.
does anyone know the original angle of the steering arms?
i mounted the steering rack as high as possible for more ground clearance as my steering rack is the lowest point.
(the rack is much higher now, pic is when the steering rack is to the lowest point with all the washers up)

does anyone know the original angle of the steering arms?
i mounted the steering rack as high as possible for more ground clearance as my steering rack is the lowest point.
(the rack is much higher now, pic is when the steering rack is to the lowest point with all the washers up)



