Door key won't operate C/locking - help!

[Treeman612]

Just swopped all my doors over from a donor - did all 3 except drivers door - all ok, all c/locking worked a treat. Swopped drivers door over, swopped lock mechanism from old door so key worked, now no c/locking. Key turns to horizontal in lock, but does not operate c/locking solenoid. Key will 'pull up' solenoid if unlocking. Have swopped old (known to work) solenoid, still same problem. I know the drivers door lock barrel has a sprung-loaded bit on the end that 'springs' when turned to dead-lock position (i.e. key horizontal), but as stated, the key will not make the c/l solenoid go down (oooeeerrr).
Any clues, you electrickery experts out there (Hope yr watching, Brian Mooore!!??)

[Brianmoooore]

If you take the driver's door solenoid out, still connected to its wires, and work it manually, do the other locks work?

[HartgeH27]

If all was well when other 3 doors were done then obviously the problem would appear to be on drivers door. Did you disturb the multi pin connector on the A pillar ?? That is one of the most common problems other than the CLCU. Worth fully checking all the connections behind the rubber of the multi pin connector.

Here is a handy link (seen before but maybe useful to you).......

Good luck !!!!

http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/d ... Section=02

[Treeman612]

Update - system is now working, but I found what appears to be a weakness with the door lock cylinder & mechanism - the drivers door key barrel has a sprung-loaded arm on the end, which I believe operates the deadlocking microswitch mounted above the cylinder. Both my original mechanism and the donor car mechanism fell apart when I tried to swop over the key barrel by removing the selok pin in the end. The actual die-cast parts were broken within the mechanism, meaning the sprung loaded bit threw too easily, and hence would not actually push the lock actuator down. trip to the scrappy got me a complete drivers door with c/locking which worked (I tried it, the battery was still connected!!) Removed lock barrel, very carefully dismantled it and put my original lock cylinder in and all now works. Moral being, look carefully at the die-cast alloy bits on the end of the lock cylinder if you change/remove it - they appear to be fragile, being very thin castings.

[Brianmoooore]

The bit you are referring to is well known for being a bit fragile. Cause is usually the pivot siezing up.