E30 316 top end engine rattel

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shaba
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 1:41 pm

Hi Guys and gals awsome site here

I have a question i picked up a bmw E30 316i 2 door at the weeked and it has a very rattely top end im looking for any advisce on maybe either quieting it down or replacing top end can anyone give me a ruff price and point me in the right direction wher i can get the parts from

Thanks
shaba
aaronsmart
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 1:44 pm

it will be the tappets
all 316s do it
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djk
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 1:52 pm

Most M40 engines have noisy top ends - replacing the whole engine with a better unit is probably the most cost effective solution.
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"doughnuts - power braking in circles" Peterborough Evening Telegraph :chuckle:
Jones
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:42 pm

mine rattles like an old fiesta, has done since we got it on 137k 6 years ago, now on 160k gets used everyday has never really let us down...
HairyScreech
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:02 pm

ahh, the will be the toblerone then.
2.8 development thread http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=170822

m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... =viewtopic&
magpie
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:05 pm

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dry cam
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m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds :)
Banjo1981
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:22 pm

I was researching this myself until I was lucky enough to get a nice recently refurbed head from a zoner and mine now purrs quietly to itself now.

If you're a bit weary of replacing the engine a rebuilt head is a good way to go. Beware though, the cost of parts make it not a cheap alternative, but it can work out cheaper than a full conversion. (since you don't have to replace things like the mounts, diff, box, prop and their associated fixings and bushings (Which I'd do just for the sake of knowing it won't have to be done again)).

Other than that there's nothing much you can do. I've found slightly lighter oil has been a help but it'll never really go away.

If you're interested in taking the rebuild on as a project, I have a spare head now which you can have for £20 posted to start you off. It'll save you having to take the car off the road whilst you're doing it and when the time comes it'll make it a quicker process (ish!).
dapperdan8001
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 11:53 pm

Well I took brianmooore's advice with the diesel oil for 1500 miles then a oil and filter change and cant believe the difference. For what it costs it might be worth a shot :wink:
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shaba
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Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:02 pm

thanks alot guys thats been pretty helpfull

most current update on the car is had the rocker cover off and checked to see if their was any loose tapets and well the tappets are all realy tight and the crank looks like it was replaced not to long ago which realy confused me im a bit lost with this its a shame cause the car is probabley one of thecleanest e30's i have owned i have had 6 of them and even the wheel arches havent got a bubble of rust on them and its pretty strange to see lol

is their any e30 owners up in edinburgh that could maybe have a look at this for me i have a garage and all the tools i am happy enuf to pay them all i need is a diagnosis and what parts i need and i can wander off and go get them and fix the car

The rattel dosent affect the driving of the car but god damn it its pissing me off lol
TouringTash
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Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:10 pm

worth running a semi-synth diesel oil for 1K or so then drain and replace oil and filter (use BWM oem one).
It'll cost less than £60 all in and the insides of the engine will get a little clean.
This should make it a bit quieter and move you in a step in the correct direction.
Me? I just rev it till squealing belts, grinding bearings and a loud clonk from the rear drown out the tappets. :D
318i Touring
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