Head Gasket renewal on m20 b25

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bluff467
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Sun Aug 22, 2010 10:13 am

I have discovered an oil leak coming from my head gasket, so I am going to renew it, I was just hoping that some one could give me an idea of cost for all parts to do the job properly.

and maybe how long I should be prepared to have the car off the road, and what tools I will need.

New parts already fitted are, camshaft oil seal (front), water pump, timing belt and v belts.

Chris
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bilun777
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Sun Aug 22, 2010 10:37 am

Just replaced my head with a rebuilt one. you're going to need a gasket set about £40 gsf plus new head bolts and all the other bits you need.You will need a comprehensive metric socket set along with normal tools.Replace the cambelt again and lots of little hickups ....I suppose you could do it in a day if you are lucky and have all the parts and facilities...... you wont! it will take you many days longer than you think!If the car runs well i'd live with it,or get one of the many excellent peeps on here to do it for you.I wish I had... winkeye
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bluff467
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Sun Aug 22, 2010 10:50 am

Thought about leaving it, but bouht a new house recently, and the oil is leaking on to the paving in front of the garage, so the Mrs insisits on getting it done. :x
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bluff467
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:23 pm

bluff467 wrote:Thought about leaving it, but bouht a new house recently, and the oil is leaking on to the paving in front of the garage, so the Mrs insisits on getting it done. :x
Do I need to get the head skimmed before replacing the head gasket?
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maxfield
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:25 pm

I would personally get the head skimmed before reffiting.

It's quite an easy job, done much worse jobs on cars.

For someone that is OK with a set of spanners should probably take them a day.
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bluff467
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:27 pm

maxfield wrote:I would personally get the head skimmed before reffiting.

It's quite an easy job, done much worse jobs on cars.

For someone that is OK with a set of spanners should probably take them a day.
How much should I expect to pay for getting the head skimmed?
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daimlerman
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:29 pm

Yes,I would have the head skimmed,are you sure the oil is leaking from the head gasket?

More usual source is the cranckcase breather tube under the inlet manifold....

Point out to your 'er indoors that an M20 that does not leak oil is an M20 with no oil left in it!

My M20 engined car uses next to no oil between changes,but there's still an oil stain on the drive where it's parked regularly,calling zoner's know when they have reached the correct address!
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maxfield
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:52 pm

I pay £25 to get a head skimmed.
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bilun777
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 5:21 pm

Cost me £60 in Hull.... wont go there again :(
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Bally
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 5:26 pm

If shes worried about the oil stains :D let her replace the headgasket while you sit in the pub with a pint or 2..........
town325i
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:34 pm

If you cant be arsed to do the job i could do it for you and it will only take me around a day to complete the list of parts you need are

Cam belt kit
Head bolts
Head set
Water pump
Power steering belt
Alternator belt
2.5 ltrs of anti freeze

some of these parts are not 100% necessary
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:37 pm

A day? What you doing the other 6hrs then? winkeye

I've obviously blown to many head gaskets in my time LOL
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town325i
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:43 pm

You must have yes but i take my time make sure every thing is correct not saying you dont that is.
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:56 pm

I know what mean :cool:

I get all the tools out, lay them out in order and start spannering, half hour later head is off.

And remember I have a few more bolts to undo with mine, some of which are not easy to get too, I've grown and extra elbow in my right arm which helps :D

They're very straightforward and logical and it's more like therapy than work but I have learned what not to do, like take head off single handed with manifolds attached, that one cost me a wing and a bad back! and making sure the rear heater pipes are on and the rear head pipe before you tighten everything up!

and keeping an eye out for those poxy head dowels, they can really fcuk up a freshly milled head :cry:
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aeberbach
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Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:37 pm

You need an E-14 torx socket for the head bolts. And a torque wrench. You may need a long breaker bar to do the progressive 90 degree tightening as you reassemble. Good idea to buy new copper exhaust nuts. Slinging some kind of beam over the car will make getting the head off much easier, you raise it up and suspend it by a rope rather than breaking your back. Leave manifolds on they make great handles and attachment points for the ropes and you don't want to try and undo rusted-on nuts with no access. You need the huge spanner that fits over the fan nut (what is it, 23mm? 31mm?) and it has to be a slim straightish one.

On your first time photograph the engine bay from several angles in case some time elapses between you getting the head off and the head on, there are plenty of pipes and wires and you could easily forget where they go.
bluff467
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Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:20 am

town325i wrote:If you cant be arsed to do the job i could do it for you and it will only take me around a day to complete the list of parts you need are

Cam belt kit
Head bolts
Head set
Water pump
Power steering belt
Alternator belt
2.5 ltrs of anti freeze

some of these parts are not 100% necessary
I replaced a lot of these parts less tham 200 miles ago, ie:

water pump
power steering belt
alternator belt
Cam belt and tensioner

Will I realy need to replace them again?
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town325i
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Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:30 am

No just the cam belt will need changing then
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maxfield
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Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:34 am

Why will the cambelt need doing again? It's still brand new?
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powelly
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Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:40 am

maxfield wrote:Why will the cambelt need doing again? It's still brand new?
It would probably be ok, to be honest though it's been tensioned and then taken off, i'd sooner not risk it for the sake of £25, it's just good practice to replace it regardless of how many miles it's been on the car.
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town325i
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Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:47 am

maxfield wrote:Why will the cambelt need doing again? It's still brand new?
Once tensioned they dont like being re tensioned would you want it to snap i wouldnt after doing all that work!
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bluff467
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Fri Sep 03, 2010 9:30 am

town325i wrote:
maxfield wrote:Why will the cambelt need doing again? It's still brand new?
Once tensioned they dont like being re tensioned would you want it to snap i wouldnt after doing all that work!
New cambelt it is then. Cheers for all the good advice lads.
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