Head Gasket renewal on m20 b25
Moderator: martauto
I have discovered an oil leak coming from my head gasket, so I am going to renew it, I was just hoping that some one could give me an idea of cost for all parts to do the job properly.
and maybe how long I should be prepared to have the car off the road, and what tools I will need.
New parts already fitted are, camshaft oil seal (front), water pump, timing belt and v belts.
Chris
and maybe how long I should be prepared to have the car off the road, and what tools I will need.
New parts already fitted are, camshaft oil seal (front), water pump, timing belt and v belts.
Chris
Life is short so enjoy it while it lasts. Buy an E30!
Just replaced my head with a rebuilt one. you're going to need a gasket set about £40 gsf plus new head bolts and all the other bits you need.You will need a comprehensive metric socket set along with normal tools.Replace the cambelt again and lots of little hickups ....I suppose you could do it in a day if you are lucky and have all the parts and facilities...... you wont! it will take you many days longer than you think!If the car runs well i'd live with it,or get one of the many excellent peeps on here to do it for you.I wish I had... 
If it aint broke don't fix it!
Thought about leaving it, but bouht a new house recently, and the oil is leaking on to the paving in front of the garage, so the Mrs insisits on getting it done. 
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Do I need to get the head skimmed before replacing the head gasket?bluff467 wrote:Thought about leaving it, but bouht a new house recently, and the oil is leaking on to the paving in front of the garage, so the Mrs insisits on getting it done.
Life is short so enjoy it while it lasts. Buy an E30!
How much should I expect to pay for getting the head skimmed?maxfield wrote:I would personally get the head skimmed before reffiting.
It's quite an easy job, done much worse jobs on cars.
For someone that is OK with a set of spanners should probably take them a day.
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daimlerman
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Yes,I would have the head skimmed,are you sure the oil is leaking from the head gasket?
More usual source is the cranckcase breather tube under the inlet manifold....
Point out to your 'er indoors that an M20 that does not leak oil is an M20 with no oil left in it!
My M20 engined car uses next to no oil between changes,but there's still an oil stain on the drive where it's parked regularly,calling zoner's know when they have reached the correct address!
More usual source is the cranckcase breather tube under the inlet manifold....
Point out to your 'er indoors that an M20 that does not leak oil is an M20 with no oil left in it!
My M20 engined car uses next to no oil between changes,but there's still an oil stain on the drive where it's parked regularly,calling zoner's know when they have reached the correct address!
Youth is wasted on the young.
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town325i
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If you cant be arsed to do the job i could do it for you and it will only take me around a day to complete the list of parts you need are
Cam belt kit
Head bolts
Head set
Water pump
Power steering belt
Alternator belt
2.5 ltrs of anti freeze
some of these parts are not 100% necessary
Cam belt kit
Head bolts
Head set
Water pump
Power steering belt
Alternator belt
2.5 ltrs of anti freeze
some of these parts are not 100% necessary

I know what mean
I get all the tools out, lay them out in order and start spannering, half hour later head is off.
And remember I have a few more bolts to undo with mine, some of which are not easy to get too, I've grown and extra elbow in my right arm which helps
They're very straightforward and logical and it's more like therapy than work but I have learned what not to do, like take head off single handed with manifolds attached, that one cost me a wing and a bad back! and making sure the rear heater pipes are on and the rear head pipe before you tighten everything up!
and keeping an eye out for those poxy head dowels, they can really fcuk up a freshly milled head
I get all the tools out, lay them out in order and start spannering, half hour later head is off.
And remember I have a few more bolts to undo with mine, some of which are not easy to get too, I've grown and extra elbow in my right arm which helps
They're very straightforward and logical and it's more like therapy than work but I have learned what not to do, like take head off single handed with manifolds attached, that one cost me a wing and a bad back! and making sure the rear heater pipes are on and the rear head pipe before you tighten everything up!
and keeping an eye out for those poxy head dowels, they can really fcuk up a freshly milled head
You need an E-14 torx socket for the head bolts. And a torque wrench. You may need a long breaker bar to do the progressive 90 degree tightening as you reassemble. Good idea to buy new copper exhaust nuts. Slinging some kind of beam over the car will make getting the head off much easier, you raise it up and suspend it by a rope rather than breaking your back. Leave manifolds on they make great handles and attachment points for the ropes and you don't want to try and undo rusted-on nuts with no access. You need the huge spanner that fits over the fan nut (what is it, 23mm? 31mm?) and it has to be a slim straightish one.
On your first time photograph the engine bay from several angles in case some time elapses between you getting the head off and the head on, there are plenty of pipes and wires and you could easily forget where they go.
On your first time photograph the engine bay from several angles in case some time elapses between you getting the head off and the head on, there are plenty of pipes and wires and you could easily forget where they go.
I replaced a lot of these parts less tham 200 miles ago, ie:town325i wrote:If you cant be arsed to do the job i could do it for you and it will only take me around a day to complete the list of parts you need are
Cam belt kit
Head bolts
Head set
Water pump
Power steering belt
Alternator belt
2.5 ltrs of anti freeze
some of these parts are not 100% necessary
water pump
power steering belt
alternator belt
Cam belt and tensioner
Will I realy need to replace them again?
Life is short so enjoy it while it lasts. Buy an E30!
It would probably be ok, to be honest though it's been tensioned and then taken off, i'd sooner not risk it for the sake of £25, it's just good practice to replace it regardless of how many miles it's been on the car.maxfield wrote:Why will the cambelt need doing again? It's still brand new?
Le Mans Classic 2006New cambelt it is then. Cheers for all the good advice lads.town325i wrote:Once tensioned they dont like being re tensioned would you want it to snap i wouldnt after doing all that work!maxfield wrote:Why will the cambelt need doing again? It's still brand new?
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