Yeah that's him!
Very nice looking car he has, I would have loved to take that thing for a drive when it had the SR20DET. After driving a friends N/A Sentra (with ITB's and loads of work), revving it to 8k. Must feel awesome with the extra ooomph of a turn in a RWD chassis.
Killarney Track Car, Video to watch on you tube, PG 5
Moderator: martauto
Tim,
I'd be interested to see a pic or two of the CDI under your bonnet when you get a chance. I'm curious to see exactly how you have mounted it.
FYI: You'll see I have labled the two looms (that go to the pencil coils) as "A" and "B". Facing the two green sockets on the rear of the box, "A" is on the left, and "B" is on the right. Make sure that the connectors engage nice and firmly when you push them in.
If you don't have six pencil-coil connectors plundered off an E46, then you can make do with those little spade connectors (I think that's what they are called) that you get from a hardware store. Don't get the wide ones as they will be too big for the pins in the head of the pencil coil. The smallest size is just right. Three of those each per coil and you'll be set.
Regards
Geoff
I'd be interested to see a pic or two of the CDI under your bonnet when you get a chance. I'm curious to see exactly how you have mounted it.
FYI: You'll see I have labled the two looms (that go to the pencil coils) as "A" and "B". Facing the two green sockets on the rear of the box, "A" is on the left, and "B" is on the right. Make sure that the connectors engage nice and firmly when you push them in.
If you don't have six pencil-coil connectors plundered off an E46, then you can make do with those little spade connectors (I think that's what they are called) that you get from a hardware store. Don't get the wide ones as they will be too big for the pins in the head of the pencil coil. The smallest size is just right. Three of those each per coil and you'll be set.
Regards
Geoff
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
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- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
Geoff,
Ill post pics up when i can, so far I have done nothing, but brakes are all fitted and my m diff cover is on.
I see you have marked wires with cyl no. do I attach these according to the firing order of engine.
Would be great if you could give me some info on how I wire the cdi to go-tech etc...
Regards,
Tim
Ill post pics up when i can, so far I have done nothing, but brakes are all fitted and my m diff cover is on.
I see you have marked wires with cyl no. do I attach these according to the firing order of engine.
Would be great if you could give me some info on how I wire the cdi to go-tech etc...
Regards,
Tim
No, according to the number of the cylinder. Cyl-1 at the front of the engine, cylinder 6 at the rear.tim_haynes wrote:I see you have marked wires with cyl no. do I attach these according to the firing order of engine.
Further instructions will follow (eventually)
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
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- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
no prob thanks really crap weather in cpt now!!
really crap weather in cpt now!!Tim,
See attached the wiring diagram showing how to connect your Gotech Pro X ECU to your new CDI. You'll need to click on the image to generate sufficient resolution to read the diagram.
Since you are effectively running a wasted-spark ignition system your cylinders 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4 will always fire simultaneously (at the end of every compression and exhaust stroke).
You therefore need to run four low current wires between the CDI and your ECU. One wire is a ground (0V) wire (usually colour black), and the remaining three are to trigger the 6-channels (one CD channel per engine cylinder) of the CDI. Consult page-22 of your Gotech manual for further info. You'll need to have your dyno chap reset your Gotech ECU to work in the appropriate (multi-coil) mode. You Gotech is currently configured for firing one coil only.
I would suggest that you make up your cable from a length of four-core shielded cable. The 9-pin male D-type connector shown in the diagram was in the box I sent you. The pin numbers (as shown) are printed on the connector but are quite hard to make out, so look closely.
Further info detailing how to wire up the pencil coils will follow soon.
See attached the wiring diagram showing how to connect your Gotech Pro X ECU to your new CDI. You'll need to click on the image to generate sufficient resolution to read the diagram.
Since you are effectively running a wasted-spark ignition system your cylinders 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4 will always fire simultaneously (at the end of every compression and exhaust stroke).
You therefore need to run four low current wires between the CDI and your ECU. One wire is a ground (0V) wire (usually colour black), and the remaining three are to trigger the 6-channels (one CD channel per engine cylinder) of the CDI. Consult page-22 of your Gotech manual for further info. You'll need to have your dyno chap reset your Gotech ECU to work in the appropriate (multi-coil) mode. You Gotech is currently configured for firing one coil only.
I would suggest that you make up your cable from a length of four-core shielded cable. The 9-pin male D-type connector shown in the diagram was in the box I sent you. The pin numbers (as shown) are printed on the connector but are quite hard to make out, so look closely.
Further info detailing how to wire up the pencil coils will follow soon.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
See below how to connect up the two wire looms (supplied) to your six E46 pencil coils.
Note that each coil has three pins arranged similarly to a 3-pin mains socket.
With the six pencil coils in place on your M20 engine, connect each pin marked "Chassis (ground)" to a suitable 0V connection. A connection to the side of the engine block would be best.
Now take each of the wire pairs in the two looms (one pair at a time) and connect them to the pencil-coil the respective cylinder, following the identifying markings on the loom.
Take note that Loom-A (Green & Purple) connects to the left-hand connector on the rear of the CDI, and that Loom-B (Blue & Orange) connects to the right-hand connector on the rear of the CDI.
Observing the wire pairs from left to right, Loom-A connects to cylinders 1, 3 and 2. Similarly, loom-B connect to cylinders 5, 6 and 4. Note that channels 4 and 8 of the CDI do not connect to anything.
Finally: In Loom-A, Purple connects to the "Positive" pin of its respective pencil-coil, and green connects to the "Negative" pin of its respective pencil-coil.
Similarly, In Loom-B, Orange connects to the "Positive" pin of its respective pencil-coil, and blue connects to the "Negative" pin of its respective pencil-coil.
Follow these instructions to the letter and you shouldn't have any problems.
Regards
Geoff
Note that each coil has three pins arranged similarly to a 3-pin mains socket.
With the six pencil coils in place on your M20 engine, connect each pin marked "Chassis (ground)" to a suitable 0V connection. A connection to the side of the engine block would be best.
Now take each of the wire pairs in the two looms (one pair at a time) and connect them to the pencil-coil the respective cylinder, following the identifying markings on the loom.
Take note that Loom-A (Green & Purple) connects to the left-hand connector on the rear of the CDI, and that Loom-B (Blue & Orange) connects to the right-hand connector on the rear of the CDI.
Observing the wire pairs from left to right, Loom-A connects to cylinders 1, 3 and 2. Similarly, loom-B connect to cylinders 5, 6 and 4. Note that channels 4 and 8 of the CDI do not connect to anything.
Finally: In Loom-A, Purple connects to the "Positive" pin of its respective pencil-coil, and green connects to the "Negative" pin of its respective pencil-coil.
Similarly, In Loom-B, Orange connects to the "Positive" pin of its respective pencil-coil, and blue connects to the "Negative" pin of its respective pencil-coil.
Follow these instructions to the letter and you shouldn't have any problems.
Regards
Geoff
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
One other thing, as discussed on the phone, be sure to connect the positive (red) wire of the CDI power cable to a switched power source (not direct to the battery) via a 20A fuse.
If anything goes wrong with the CDI and you don't have a fuse installed you are likely to end up with a burning CDI under your bonnet that could do serious damage to your car.
If anything goes wrong with the CDI and you don't have a fuse installed you are likely to end up with a burning CDI under your bonnet that could do serious damage to your car.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
geoff,
cdi is fitted under dashboard next to go-tech ecu. The car is now at the dyno place and they are doing the wiring and obviously the tuning. Will post pictures up and let you know how car performs.
Regards,
Tim
cdi is fitted under dashboard next to go-tech ecu. The car is now at the dyno place and they are doing the wiring and obviously the tuning. Will post pictures up and let you know how car performs.
Regards,
Tim
I look forward to hearing how the installation and tuning went. Please be sure to communicate all of the installation info I communicated to you over to your dyno guy if he is doing the CDI installation. If you have mounted the CDI next to your ECU then whatever you do, don’t be tempted to have the CDI draw power from the same point as the ECU 
That CDI will draw 15A of current at top RPM and will send your ECU into convulsions if it is drawing power from the same power distribution point. If you do have any problems like this then have the CDI draw power direct from the battery through a 25A rated relay (plus the prescribed 20A fuse). You then have your ignition switch apply power to the relay to turn the CDI on each time you turn the ignition on. The CDI is then effectively disconnected from the battery whenever the ignition switch is off.
Will you be fitting a manometer over your intercooler as we discussed on the phone? Not worth spending the money on having the car tuned if you find that you are suffering a large pressure drop. Rather sort your intercooler out first and then have her tuned. This will make a big difference to your cars performance.
That CDI will draw 15A of current at top RPM and will send your ECU into convulsions if it is drawing power from the same power distribution point. If you do have any problems like this then have the CDI draw power direct from the battery through a 25A rated relay (plus the prescribed 20A fuse). You then have your ignition switch apply power to the relay to turn the CDI on each time you turn the ignition on. The CDI is then effectively disconnected from the battery whenever the ignition switch is off.Will you be fitting a manometer over your intercooler as we discussed on the phone? Not worth spending the money on having the car tuned if you find that you are suffering a large pressure drop. Rather sort your intercooler out first and then have her tuned. This will make a big difference to your cars performance.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
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- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
Yea I have given him everything, and the cdi will be on a seperate power source and not sharing.
He is going to do a few tests for me on the Dyno to see if intercooler to small don't worry. I'll get to the bottom of it. Will let u know!
Cheers.
Tim
He is going to do a few tests for me on the Dyno to see if intercooler to small don't worry. I'll get to the bottom of it. Will let u know!
Cheers.
Tim
In that case I wait anxiously to hear that the CDI works (and that your engine didn't backfire and blow your Rotrex's compressor wheel backwards into your airfilter 
)
As I am sure you can guess, I am keen to hear that it all worked out fine. Any problems with the CDI, you have my number. Don't hesitate.
Regards,
Geoff
)As I am sure you can guess, I am keen to hear that it all worked out fine. Any problems with the CDI, you have my number. Don't hesitate.
Regards,
Geoff
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
Just to show you guys a few more pictures, Engine is now finished with pencil coils fitted, cdi working really well thanks to geoff.
Yeah, this car rocks my world, and I am really liking the way you two are working together through the forum, makes for such a refreshing change from the normal bickering that often floods internet forums.
I am getting lost with all the electronics talk that is going on, however I understand that it will help the car make stupid power... that much I understand.
It is interesting the talk about wiring up the ECU and CDI seperately to prevent power drop. The tacho on my E30 drops to zero then picks up again at about 5,000 rpm (no effect on the engine at all). I am wondering if I have a few too many gadjets running on the same power supply.
I am getting lost with all the electronics talk that is going on, however I understand that it will help the car make stupid power... that much I understand.
It is interesting the talk about wiring up the ECU and CDI seperately to prevent power drop. The tacho on my E30 drops to zero then picks up again at about 5,000 rpm (no effect on the engine at all). I am wondering if I have a few too many gadjets running on the same power supply.
Cheers,
Michael.
Great pics Tim. You've done a fantastic job of installing those coils - very neat indeed!
MillRat, thanks for you're comments. It was a pleasure to be able to help Tim (at least I hope that's what I did ). BTW, the CDI will only improve engine performance if the old ignition components (coil, distributor, HT leads etc) were deficient in some way. Fitting a distributorless ignition (such as Tim's) usually results in improved ignition timing at higher RPM. Most importantly though, a high voltage CDI will generate enough voltage to spark the plugs even when the engine is under boost (this is where most standard ignitions fall short). Fitting a CDI to a N/A standard CR engine that already runs well probably wouldn't have any effect at all. A CDI can, however, be very useful on a forced induction or high compression engine.
Regards
Geoff
MillRat, thanks for you're comments. It was a pleasure to be able to help Tim (at least I hope that's what I did
). BTW, the CDI will only improve engine performance if the old ignition components (coil, distributor, HT leads etc) were deficient in some way. Fitting a distributorless ignition (such as Tim's) usually results in improved ignition timing at higher RPM. Most importantly though, a high voltage CDI will generate enough voltage to spark the plugs even when the engine is under boost (this is where most standard ignitions fall short). Fitting a CDI to a N/A standard CR engine that already runs well probably wouldn't have any effect at all. A CDI can, however, be very useful on a forced induction or high compression engine.Regards
Geoff
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
I know this forum is a little boring and old, but car has been going through some problems lately but i am slowly sorting them out.
Had to get my head skimmed and cam re-cut/hardened/polished, new rockers and sleeves, new exhaust valves. Will be fitting it soon with solid copper gasket to take the the boost.
Here's a few photos of head and my new DTM Mirrors and some spare wheels!
will post up some more pics when car is running again and dyno graph.
Had to get my head skimmed and cam re-cut/hardened/polished, new rockers and sleeves, new exhaust valves. Will be fitting it soon with solid copper gasket to take the the boost.
Here's a few photos of head and my new DTM Mirrors and some spare wheels!
will post up some more pics when car is running again and dyno graph.
Nice rims Tim, very nice indeed. 'Scuze my ignorance, but who makes them? They look very compomotivish in style and finish?
I can see we think alike when it comes to certain things on our cars (including rims). My wing mirrors are very similar to yours and I am also thinking of taking a hole-saw to my polycarb window to let some air in. It's just way too hot in there at the moment, and summer is approaching fast. I don't know about having to wear a Nomex lined level-2 race - If it gets any hotter inside there I'll spontaneously combust inside the suit. Not much the suit can do to protect me against that (might stop me from setting the car on fire though )
I can see we think alike when it comes to certain things on our cars (including rims
). My wing mirrors are very similar to yours and I am also thinking of taking a hole-saw to my polycarb window to let some air in. It's just way too hot in there at the moment, and summer is approaching fast. I don't know about having to wear a Nomex lined level-2 race - If it gets any hotter inside there I'll spontaneously combust inside the suit. Not much the suit can do to protect me against that (might stop me from setting the car on fire though )"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
Geoff they are actually BMW M5 Reps, original M5 wheels were 18 inch though, these are 17 inch by 8 inches wide, ET20. Been powder coated white. Didn't pay much for them, very light as well, good enough for some spares.
Very pleased with the mirrors, they are carbon fiber and incredibly sturdy and strong, but very light.
Vision out of the mirrors is pretty shocking though!
Drilling the holes in the poly-carb window made a huge difference, was way to hot, now i have those mirrors blowing in air to now from vents. Get your drill out and start cutting!
Very pleased with the mirrors, they are carbon fiber and incredibly sturdy and strong, but very light.
Vision out of the mirrors is pretty shocking though!
Drilling the holes in the poly-carb window made a huge difference, was way to hot, now i have those mirrors blowing in air to now from vents. Get your drill out and start cutting!
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
[/url]-
tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
Thanks Geoff, Credit to your CDI though, its working great, I drove car yesterday on the n2 for a bit and I must say it is a bit of an animal! Back wheels were spinning first, second and third haha!
Sorry I didn't get a printout of the wheel power.
Sorry I didn't get a printout of the wheel power.
Pleased to here the CDI is working well Tim, but aside from that In think you have now sorted a number of issues that were costing you power, possibly without you realising it at the time. First and foremost it sounds is if your faulty BOV is now sorted. Blowing off boost is a recognised mechanism to control a cars power output, but really isn't recommended (It certainly isn't what I would have done with your Rotrex). However, once you fixed that and stopped blowing off unnecessarily, you found out the hard way how easy it is for a bar of boost to shift a stock gasket!
With your new MLS gasket and head-bolts I think you will do just fine. Add to that the fact that your plug voltage is now more than sufficient to break down the gap and you won't have any further issues with a misfire while making boost.
I look forward to hearing your new and improved lap time.
Regards
Geoff
With your new MLS gasket and head-bolts I think you will do just fine. Add to that the fact that your plug voltage is now more than sufficient to break down the gap and you won't have any further issues with a misfire while making boost.
I look forward to hearing your new and improved lap time.
Regards
Geoff
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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Rory_O
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 120
- Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Liverpool, Or Co Tyrone
hey buddy just quick one.. excuse my ignorance but is this road legal? also was that originally a 4 door?
Im interested in making a Drift spec, im up in Co Tyrone. Also any picks of the cage?
Im interested in making a Drift spec, im up in Co Tyrone. Also any picks of the cage?
523i E39
320i E30
Alot of people may hate me for this but remember it was only for a little fun! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAy5PabItfA
320i E30
Alot of people may hate me for this but remember it was only for a little fun! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAy5PabItfA
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
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- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
HI Rory,
No it's not road legal, I did take it on the road yesterday but I must say it is not enjoyable on the road and feels dangerous.
It was originally a 4 door, door were stripped to nothing and welded shut.
My cage is actually very poor and would like to do a new one so pictures of my cage will not help you, plenty of other better examples out there.
No it's not road legal, I did take it on the road yesterday but I must say it is not enjoyable on the road and feels dangerous.
It was originally a 4 door, door were stripped to nothing and welded shut.
My cage is actually very poor and would like to do a new one so pictures of my cage will not help you, plenty of other better examples out there.
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
Geoff! New Lap time was 1min 24sec! 4 seconds quicker. Car was great.
Good to hear Tim 
Well done. 4 seconds is a huge improvement
Looks like you had some good weather at Kilarney too. Has been p!ssing down up here past week. Only consolation is that it's been a welcome break from the heat.
I'll be holding thumbs that the CDI continues to function as intended for you. Hopefully the coils will all hold out as well. I now have a single channel unit (for those who refuse to give up their distributors) in development. Another mate of mine is testing one on his car after he fitted a turbocharger and discovered the hard way (like so many) that his stock ignition was no good under boost. The new design is of the multi-spark type, meaning that it sparks more than once per combustion event. Took quite a bit of development work to get it right, but now that it's done it works a treat, particularly at low RPM.
'Trust that you'll be doing more track days from now on Tim? I look forward to more pics.
Well done. 4 seconds is a huge improvement Looks like you had some good weather at Kilarney too. Has been p!ssing down up here past week. Only consolation is that it's been a welcome break from the heat.
I'll be holding thumbs that the CDI continues to function as intended for you. Hopefully the coils will all hold out as well. I now have a single channel unit (for those who refuse to give up their distributors) in development. Another mate of mine is testing one on his car after he fitted a turbocharger and discovered the hard way (like so many) that his stock ignition was no good under boost. The new design is of the multi-spark type, meaning that it sparks more than once per combustion event. Took quite a bit of development work to get it right, but now that it's done it works a treat, particularly at low RPM.
'Trust that you'll be doing more track days from now on Tim? I look forward to more pics.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
Great to see your car up and running Tim! Quick question, what size tyres are you running on your car?
Any chance you want to part with the Schnitzers, or even the M5 reps? Need a set of wheels for my road car.
Any chance you want to part with the Schnitzers, or even the M5 reps? Need a set of wheels for my road car.
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
Thanks stevin,
Running 225, 45, 17 bridgestone semi slicks.
Schnitzers are 8.5 inch wide, should run 235's really.
Sorry i need all the wheels i can get!!
Running 225, 45, 17 bridgestone semi slicks.
Schnitzers are 8.5 inch wide, should run 235's really.
Sorry i need all the wheels i can get!!
Your Schnitzers are 8.5? The ones I have are only 8j well were. The fronts are now 8.5 and the rears 10.5j now.
Yeah the 235's would be much better not only for the width also the smaller rolling diameter (235/40 vs 225/45)
Yeah the 235's would be much better not only for the width also the smaller rolling diameter (235/40 vs 225/45)
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tim_haynes
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- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
Yeah they are 8.5inch ET13. A 235/40/17 would only make 2.3% difference to what i have now!
10.5j on the back of yours! very nice!
10.5j on the back of yours! very nice!
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tim_haynes
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- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
Give me your comments!
Great video Tim! Nicely edited and with music too! I can barely work my camera and even YouTube is a bit beyond my skills level.
Was that the 4 December trackday by any chance? Some of the Gauteng locals went down for that one. I'd like to travel down myself one day.
Was that the 4 December trackday by any chance? Some of the Gauteng locals went down for that one. I'd like to travel down myself one day.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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tim_haynes
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- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
Thanks Geoff,
Much appreciated, That was actually last week when I hired the track for two hours, as you can see there were no other cars there which allowed me to do some filming!
will reply to your email soon!
Much appreciated, That was actually last week when I hired the track for two hours, as you can see there were no other cars there which allowed me to do some filming!
will reply to your email soon!
