Sound proofing a cab - areas needing attention?
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FMH
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As title, what areas need minor/major attention when sound proofing a cab. Just one Orion 4000w sub for the bass.
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ImysE30
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Everywhere
Floor pans, behind rear seat, underneath bottom rear bench, side panels, boot lid, go crazy
Floor pans, behind rear seat, underneath bottom rear bench, side panels, boot lid, go crazy
Current Fleet:
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
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m_jermyn
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The roof 
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chu346
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ImysE30 wrote:Everywhere![]()
Floor pans, behind rear seat, underneath bottom rear bench, side panels, boot lid, go crazy
I disagree. Imy are these areas truely a problem on your convertible? Cabs weigh enough with out a ton of sound deadening.ImysE30 wrote:Everywhere![]()
Floor pans, behind rear seat, underneath bottom rear bench, side panels, boot lid, go crazy
Don't do the back of the seat as some of the sound comes from there. These cars have a strong structure and the main thing you should be looking at is the boot lid, the number plate area and if the horseshoe rattles you'll need to find a way of stopping that too.
I had a RE 1000wrms 15" sub in a massive box and at full power the only thing that rattled was the bootlid and the number plate.
I think its pointless going crazy with soundproofing when the car is a convertible as you won't be able to keep much sound in whatever you do, you need to focus on stopping the rattles instead.
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ImysE30
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That is true, the main problem/issue as you said is the bootlid and the number plate. I tried loads of things but couldn't really stop the number plate nor the bootlid from rattling when turning up the bass 
Even with loads of sound deadning, i don't think you'll stop it from rattling.
Best bet would be to ask Ben (bootyman) to see what he did with his as he's got loads of bass in his
Even with loads of sound deadning, i don't think you'll stop it from rattling.
Best bet would be to ask Ben (bootyman) to see what he did with his as he's got loads of bass in his
Current Fleet:
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
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chu346
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For the number plate you need to back the plate with sticky-back foam and use 4 bolts through the center of it to keep it tight. This also helps to keep the number plate surround steady too, and you could also use some sticky-back foam on that too.
My bootlid wasn't that bad, and that wasn't from a lack of bass. I think it depends on speaker position and if the boot is in good shape. My sub was facing forward towards the rear seats rather than being directed into the boot, so it wasn't pushing the bootlid much.
My bootlid wasn't that bad, and that wasn't from a lack of bass. I think it depends on speaker position and if the boot is in good shape. My sub was facing forward towards the rear seats rather than being directed into the boot, so it wasn't pushing the bootlid much.
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ImysE30
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I took the number plate surround off and just stuck on the number plate, that helped a bit and didn't look too bad.
My sub was facing inwards too and i also made a port going into the cabin area and that helped alot. Need to try and get as much air out of the boot as possible.
My sub was facing inwards too and i also made a port going into the cabin area and that helped alot. Need to try and get as much air out of the boot as possible.
Current Fleet:
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
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FMH
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Thanks for the tips guys.
Out of interest, while i was stone chipping the front valance, i read "sound deadening" on the container, how true is that?
Out of interest, while i was stone chipping the front valance, i read "sound deadening" on the container, how true is that?
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ImysE30
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I wouldn't use it on the inside 
Dynamt i think it's called, quite expensive though
Dynamt i think it's called, quite expensive though
Current Fleet:
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
E30 335i Turbo M3 Convertible Replica
