instrument probs.

[lawriejones]

I've just been driving along enjoying the sun when suddenly i've lost my rev counter,fuel gauge,temp gauge,service lights and fan blower. The speedo still works and all the other electrics seem fine.

What can be the problem?

[mrLEE30]

all (except the fan) are linked to fuse 10 which should be 7.5 amp

the fan is fuse 20 and should be 30A

check these first, but remember fuses dont just blow...they blow for a reason and normally an earth fault.

[lawriejones]

The 7.5 amp fuse in holder no10 is indeed blown and when replaced, blows straight away. This has only just started to happen.
Where do I look first for the fault?

The 30 amp fuse in holder no20 is still intact, but the blower still does not work. I've already replaced the fan speed resistor once, and that was when it was only working on speed no4. But now it doesn't work at all.

Where else shall I look?

[snakebrain]

Cluster issues are a pain in the arse. If it's a short in the board/wiring it's prob less hassle just to replace the whole unit. People will advise you to remove the rechargeable batteries from the board and replace them with new. Don't bother. Not worth the headache and only slightly likely to work....

[lawriejones]

What I have noticed, is on replacing the fuse, I turned the key to the ignition without starting the car. There is smoke coming out from the fuse box and a burning wire smell.

[poolnoodle]

People will advise you to remove the rechargeable batteries from the board and replace them with new. Don't bother. Not worth the headache and only slightly likely to work....

Not true - simple job, costs about 5 quid, works perfectly

[snakebrain]

Not true - simple job, costs about 5 quid, works perfectly

I've been asking around about this. As far as I can tell (mostly on E28s), the success rate is about 50%. It only works if the batteries are the totality of the problem, and they don't always seem to be.

[mrLEE30]

What I have noticed, is on replacing the fuse, I turned the key to the ignition without starting the car. There is smoke coming out from the fuse box and a burning wire smell.

that smoke and burning smell means the fuse is doing its job and burning rather then the wires, this is why you NEVER replace a blown fuse with a larger rated fuse as eventually the "fuse" is the wires and this results in a fire.

It seems you have two issues. the fuse 10 and the fan as they are not to my knowledge linked in any way except through the common ground connection.

Work on the fuse 10 problem first. this protects the various dashboard functions techo fuel etc but also reverse lights and this is where my money will be on.

Fuse 10 and 11 are also accociated with the starting circuit, but dont worry about this for now.

first place to cause a fault is the reverse switch located on the transmission on the right hand side (i assume its a manual car) check the wiring especially the green/white wire. then inspected the wiring unitl it goes to the conector located under the gear lever leather surround inside the car, underneath the window switches

[poolnoodle]

Not true - simple job, costs about 5 quid, works perfectly

I've been asking around about this. As far as I can tell (mostly on E28s), the success rate is about 50%. It only works if the batteries are the totality of the problem, and they don't always seem to be.

This is true - but it is totally successful if the batteries are the problem and they haven't leaked and damaged the circuit board. The batteries seem to be the major issue on E30s it is just a matter of getting to them before they are too far gone

[lawriejones]

MrLee.

This would make sense as I have recently had the gear linkage worked on. (I was having problems selecting reverse).
Do you think it is possible that the mechanic may have caught the wire somehow?

[Brianmoooore]

A little known function of fuse 10 is that it supplies the power to the coil of unloader relay K7, which, in turn, supplies power to the heater fan.
If the gear linkage has been worked on, your "mechanic" is almost certainly the cause of all this.
Pull up the gator around the gear lever, and find a two pin plug and socket lying near the bottom of it, with green/white and blue/white wires. Pull this apart (which will disconnect the reverse light switch and its wiring) and replace the fuse.

[BAZE30]

I presuming your car is a manual.

If so, pull up the gear stick boot and you should see a rubber boot underneath. There should be a wire coming through this boot. What happens overtime is, with sloppy gear changes this wire gets rubbed up against the metal of the car chassis. After awhile it exposes the wire and shorts the car which blows your fuse. You will probably notice now that it tends to happen when you change gears usually 1st, 3rd, 5th. Forward gears.

Best thing to do temporarly is insulate this exposed wire until you can fix your sloppy shift and the wire.

I have a few pictures on my phone to show you but this one did my head in for a few months.

[lawriejones]

Brianmoooore.

As per usual, you are SPOT ON.

I've done exactly what you said and Hey presto...Everything is working again.

I can see on the green and white wire, where the shorting has occured...Now back to the mechanic for an explanation. The wire seems to be caught under the 10mm brass screw holding down the panel.

Thanks a lot fellows for all your input.

I owe you all a cool one.

[mrLEE30]

check the wiring especially the green/white wire. then inspected the wiring unitl it goes to the conector located under the gear lever leather surround inside the car, underneath the window switches

Hey!!! why should brian get all the credit!!!



just kidding, glad its fixed

[lawriejones]

Sorry MrLEE30.

Thanks also. And for my other post re: the Squeaking shocks.

[mrLEE30]

no worries, brian is more likely to be correct anyway!!