"restoring" an Alpina snow plough

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Alex
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Tue Jun 01, 2010 9:54 pm

Right this arrived today but needs a bit of tlc as you would imagine for a 20 year old spoiler.

Whats the best way to deal with holes/chunks missing? P38/P40?

Also it has cracking all over it would i need Filler primer?

also is there anything i should use to make the paintwork more resilliant to stone chips?


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if p40/p38 is best to fix the blemishes? if so which is best p40 or p38?. Hopefully Pacerpete will be the expert on this :)
Alex
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:59 am

:)
Alex
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 2:08 pm

just bought some P38 easy sand and some plastic primer so i will see where i get with that :)
Ollie_bwoii
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 2:21 pm

I would say for any bad cracks that are sort of "structural" to the spoiler, use that fibregash kit form halfrauds with the matting and resin.

Anything thats just blemishes can obviously be sorted with P40 or P38, but there I don't know the difference tbh, and you will find out how well it takes when you give it a go.

Hope you get the finish you want, afterall it's probably only going to get smashed off. :chuckle:
d6dph
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 2:51 pm

If there are cracks in the fiberglass spoiler, Drill a 2mm hole at the start and finish before you repair it. This takes away the stress point and should stop the crack continuing.
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Alpina99
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 3:23 pm

Welcome to the club !!
I'm fed up of repairing mine, I always think I've allowed for it when parking / going over speed humps etc but that horrible scraping noise frequently tells me I haven't.
I've used additional fibreglass matting & resin to strengthen, even used aluminium plate, pop rivweted & bonded on then ground out the heads, only problem with mine is that it's got ALPINA in raised letters across the centre of it which makes it more difficult.
Worth it in the end though,
Good Luck,
:D
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Royalratch
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 3:27 pm

When painting it, you must put 'plasticizer' in the paint to make it flexible - all plastic parts are painted with plasticized paint as it flexes and changes with heat and vibration.

Most cracked paint on plastic parts if down to not using this correct paint mixture.

I assume you were going to attack it with a rattle can of BMW White - but you'll need to get the correct version if they have.

You could try getting that anti-chip clear film placed over, it;s supposed to be invisible when applied and very tough.
Alex
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:09 pm

Rite first time ive check this thread, the drill idea sounds good however most are just cracks in the surface

i spent the best part of 45 mins trying to fill cracks with david isopon's finest p38

then must have spent 2 hours sanding it so its all smooth :cry:

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after that i gave it a coat of plastic primer (suitbale for plastic and fibre glass) as you can see there are runs, i did this on purpose to try and fill some of the cracks i mamaged to miss with white primer to see if it would make them less noticable.

anwway after it had a couple of coats i wasnt too happy with the result in places so out came the p38 again on areas i managed to miss. the repairs i had done on the large crack and split are not invisible but i'am happy with them

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However there seems to be little "stone chip" type marks in it. can i use high build primer to try and make these less noticable?

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Thanks for help so far

the gold decal set ive got coming will cover most imperfections up :D

:D
d6dph
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:18 pm

I'd guess you would want to use stopper/fine surface filler on those pock marks.
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Alex
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:20 pm

d6dph wrote:I'd guess you would want to use stopper/fine surface filler on those pock marks.
whats that? Have you got a link to some.

:)
Alex
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:23 pm

d6dph
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:47 pm

That's the stuff.
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Alex
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Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:48 pm

8) Thanks Dave
sideshowbob
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Thu Jun 10, 2010 1:42 pm

I like the look of your spoiler and admire all the work going into it but from my limited expeience the first time you take it out you will end up with chip marks.
I have fitted a brand new, supplied by BMW, is spoiler to my 325i have repainted it twice and yes I used the correct plasticiser etc. but was disheartened to see that after a 235 mile drive up the M6 at a steady 65 - 70mph the bloody spoiler was literally covered in hundreds of little chips.
Good look with the restoration , but if you want to keep that spoiler as new don't drive the car, or paint it with stone chip....mind you it would then look awful.
Blitz
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Thu Jun 10, 2010 1:55 pm

You might need some protective film or something to guard against stone chips.
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Kos
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Thu Jun 10, 2010 2:02 pm

and people complain when a body shop wants to charge £100 to £150 for painting such an item.

people can now see whats actually involved and how labour intensive it is to prep such an item for paint
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tunnyx
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Thu Jun 10, 2010 3:21 pm

alex - that carplan fine surface filler is pants (having just done it as you know)- Halfrauds have a tube at about £4 which sorted out all my car's minor nicks, cant remember what it's called, but it was the only stuff they had for fine stuff. Its a blue squeezy tube (like a tube of tomato paste) - definitely my recommendation
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Alex
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Thu Jun 10, 2010 7:51 pm

Kos wrote:and people complain when a body shop wants to charge £100 to £150 for painting such an item.

people can now see whats actually involved and how labour intensive it is to prep such an item for paint
Too right, spent another 30 mins sanding the other night, nealy got it all smooth with very few marks left on it, obviously its not new and i'am not expecting it to be :D
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