Toecutters M50 swap loom question

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gcs325i
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Post Wed May 26, 2010 7:50 am

Disconnected the diff from the prop and rear hanger?

For removal I knock a punch type chisel in to the central alloy tube of the rear beam bush and work it back and forth till the beam drops out, make sure the beams supported as it can weigh a fair bit.
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Post Wed May 26, 2010 11:04 am

toecutter666 wrote:Need a bit of advice, started to drop the rear beam to change the bushes and suspension, undone shocks, handbrake cables, brake lines, the beam brackets and knocked the 2 large bolts up in to the car but it still won't drop, am i missing something??
The bushes have an alu inside. This sticks to the car. Most of the time i use the bolts you knocked up in the car to get it of. Put the bolt from under the car in the hole. Put a larger pipe on it and wiggle it around wih some force. It should drop down.
Good luck!
toecutter666
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Post Wed May 26, 2010 5:17 pm

Nice one, cheers guys will have to get brutal on its mo fo ass
toecutter666
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Post Fri May 28, 2010 4:42 pm

WA HEY, got the bas***d thing off, the ally bit had indeed got stuck on the passenger side

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This side dropped out no problem, just got to get the other piece out of the car now :x

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Had to cut the handbrake cables, they have rusted in solid!
toecutter666
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Post Fri May 28, 2010 8:34 pm

Thats my plan for tomorrow, then got to get medievel on the beam bushes, i see mucho swearing and grazed knuckles ahead :(
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Post Fri May 28, 2010 8:43 pm

Got the proper tool for the bushes here mate, your more than welcome
to nip over and borrow it.
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toecutter666
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Post Sat May 29, 2010 7:27 am

Cheers gooner, i've got some threaded bar and washers, if this fails i'll take you up on the offer :wink:
toecutter666
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Post Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:17 am

Had a couple hours to myself at the weekend so attacked the beam bushes, they swapped over nice and easy with a little swearing and brute force, i thought i might tidy the beam up as it was off the motor but it ended up snapping a abs sensor bolt :x
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so after tapping it out i got the hammerite out and overdosed on paint fumes.

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Just got to tidy up the calipers and wait for the new springs, shocks and handbrake cables to arrive then its getting bolted back in.
Replacing the brake lines with stainless braided ones while i'm at it.
toecutter666
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Post Fri Jun 04, 2010 7:16 pm

Bugger it! went to put on the new brake hoses and the old small solid pipes just fell to pieces, does any one know if the stealers still do pre made pipes, gutted as i wanted to put the back end back together this weekend :(
toecutter666
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Post Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:34 pm

Put the backend back together with the new flexi brake pipes, got to order the small rigid brake lines tomorrow so can't bolt it back in the motor yet, gutted.
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Thought i'd strip the front legs down as i couldn't get on with the back end. Got a pair of 35mm lowering springs to go on so i thought i'd buy all new shocks while i was at it. After a bit of a wrestle with the locking nut i got the old insert out, what shocked me was the amount of oil that came out the casing. Is this normal? never taken one of these apart before.
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Post Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:38 pm

I was surprised when I took the original struts off the touring front legs, loads of oil came out, thought it was the damper that had done it, but apparently it is customary to put oil in the strut housing before putting the damper in, aids cooling and assists in damping any knocking of the strut in the tube.

I even put oil in my legs despite running inverted bilsteins as I figured it helps stop any knocking of the insert in the tube
toecutter666
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Post Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:20 pm

Cheers bud, did you just use engine oil or something else, when i took the other apart there seemed to be a lot of water mixed with the oil.
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Post Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:22 pm

I used compressor oil, you can probably get hold of it easily from the likes of machine mart or screwfix
toecutter666
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Post Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:28 pm

Ah ok mate, will have to go shopping for oil.
toecutter666
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Post Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:19 am

Just checked the boxes and doesn't say anything about installation so i will put oil back in, can't hurt can it?
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Post Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:37 pm

I'm just bolting the m20 flywheel to the motor, should it have the spacer fitted that was on the m20 engine or leave it off as the m50 dual mass flywheel didn't have one?

Thanks
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Post Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:44 pm

have you trimmed the end of the sump or has the flywheel been machined/ lightened?

I can't remember having a spacer when fitting mine, but I forget most things :)
toecutter666
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Post Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:47 pm

I'm just about to trim the sump, looked on real oem to double check the m50 didn't have a spacer, wanted to check before i started grinding
toecutter666
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Post Wed Jun 09, 2010 4:45 pm

Just picked up my new small rigid brake lines from the stealers, thought as they were small they would come pre bent so imagine my surprise when he handed over a pair of foot long straight bits of pipe, is it a pain in the bum to bend these or will they bend easily if i bought a small bender?
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Post Wed Jun 09, 2010 4:52 pm

so long as you have a vice to put the small pipe bender in you should be OK

I bought some OEM pipes and have a small pipe bender, but I could not get it to work just hand holding the pipe bender, so gave up and just made up my own copper pipes as I habe a flaring kit
toecutter666
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Post Wed Jun 09, 2010 5:22 pm

Looks like i'm getting another tool for the box :roll:
toecutter666
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Post Fri Jun 18, 2010 7:40 am

New parts turned up today, after umminig and arring about what to do about bending my brake lines my neighbour said he would take them to work, turns out after knowing him for a few years i never knew he bent pipework for all types of cooker and hob installations, the next day they where back :D

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New dust covers and bump stops for the front legs arrived to.

Not being a football fan i decidied to get out the house and tinker, ended up getting the lump in :D

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Not having sorted getting my flywheel lightened the gearbox isn't fitted yet, wanted to get the lump in to start sorting the manifolds.

The rear beam went back in last night with new brake lines, braided lines, beam bushes, new standard shocks and springs and handbrake cables.

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Can concentrate on the wiring now :( not looking forward to it, was going to put the battery in the boot so bought a relocation kit but as its a cabby i've got the big damper thing in the way, can i lose this is if i'm putting the battery there?
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Post Fri Jun 18, 2010 3:38 pm

That would be great Will, took the damper out but couldn't work out how the tray fitted with out fabricating some brackets. Was just on my way out to start looking at the wiring but its started raining, maybe its an omen :wink:
toecutter666
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Post Sat Jun 19, 2010 7:54 am

Thats awesome, thanks mate. Got a wedding to go to today but if i'm not hanging like a pig tomorrow i'll get it sorted. :thumb:
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Post Sat Jun 19, 2010 10:39 am

If you plan on sorting the exhaust manifolds whilst you have the engine in, I would highly recommend having the gearbox fitted as the corner of the bell housing is one of the issues to consider when planning/ routing the path of the rear branch/downpipe.

Good work, you feel like the Don once you've got the engine on the mounts, but this is when all the fiddly jobs begin :)
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Post Sat Jun 19, 2010 11:15 am

E30BeemerLad wrote:If you plan on sorting the exhaust manifolds whilst you have the engine in, I would highly recommend having the gearbox fitted as the corner of the bell housing is one of the issues to consider when planning/ routing the path of the rear branch/downpipe.

Good work, you feel like the Don once you've got the engine on the mounts, but this is when all the fiddly jobs begin :)
Cheers mate, didn't think of that, engine is coming back out anyway after i've sorted brackets and bits in the bay, got a bit of rust and brackets to weld on then have a bit of respray.

Think it might be worth putting a bungee rope on it the amount of times its going to be in and out :D
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Post Sun Jun 27, 2010 5:27 pm

Got my flywheel shaved a bit this week so i didn't have to grind too much off the sump, i'll be bolting the m42 gearbox on this week and remember seeing something about having to weld a spacer on the clutch release arm, do i need to do this on my set up?

Ta
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Post Sun Jul 25, 2010 1:09 pm

A little update, bolted the is box to the lump with a new clutch kit put in courtesy of a zoner, and then dropped the lot in, life was made a lot easier by having a lorry jack under the back that lifted the car easily 3-4 ft up and then sliding the lot in.

Have the lovely job of sorting the exhaust manifolds now, this is how they look at the moment
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The rear manifold seems to clear but the front ones flange sits straight on the steering rack, is this normal? i knew i had to do some cutting and shutting but for some reason thought it was on the rear manifold.

Also done some of the wiring, cut the e34 engine plug from the car side of my donor and soldered and heat shrunk the joins in the e30 fuse box
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Thats all untill i set fire to something/somebody trying to sort these manifolds
toecutter666
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Post Sat Jul 31, 2010 7:46 am

Had another little look at the wiring , do i use the alternator cables from the e30 that go straight to the fuse box or use the m50 ones that are built into the engine loom?

Cheers for all help
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Post Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:09 pm

Evening all, was tinkering today and went to fit my heater hoses, bottom one fits fine but the inlet manifold obstructs the top one, anyone else have this problem and what did they do to get round it? can i just bend it down or is it a bit more complicated?

Cheers
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gooner1
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Post Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:12 pm

Evening Chris, not sure if you,d be interested, or if youv,e spotted this already but just in case.

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=169344
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