best way to remove engine.

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bmw1066
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Fri Jun 04, 2010 12:55 pm

I need to replace the b20 as it's pizzin out oil. It's a old l-jet and I have a 2.3 to save on time and penny's. can the gear box come out still on the engien or do thay need to be separtated.

Thanks Guy's
Mark :)
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Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:00 pm

hi Mark lift it out as one unit engine and box. that's the way I do them. also fit them that way as well. some say jack the rear end up to give you clearance.. I normally jack the front end up and haven't had a problem doing it this way and I've done a lot of them..
bmw1066
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Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:12 pm

Great Thank :) :)
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rob0r
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Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:21 pm

I agree, I always used to take the box and engine as one. Recently I tried leaving the box wih the car and some of the bell housing/starter bolts can be a right pain, as well as lining up the gearbox properly.
jonny323i
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Fri Jun 04, 2010 10:05 pm

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i renamed my engine/chassis crane you can disconnect the whole subframe and drop it out like bmw did when they built the cars
daimlerman
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Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:29 pm

jonny323i wrote:Image

i renamed my engine/chassis crane you can disconnect the whole subframe and drop it out like bmw did when they built the cars
Out of interest,how much headroom does this method require,please?
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jonny323i
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Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:37 pm

the closer the front of the crane is to the chassis the less you need but as i did it using a rear seat belt once lifted it was only just above my head and im only 5' 10"
Grrrmachine
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Sat Jun 05, 2010 2:01 pm

I really like this method: especially keeping the wheels attached so that, presumably, you can roll the subframe around. And a ceiling-mounted winch should be enough to lift the car up too, I guess.

What's the weight of an E30 with all that taken off? Under a tonne?
jonny323i
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Sat Jun 05, 2010 2:05 pm

put it this way late on that day we had the rear setup off too and me and my dad lifted the whole chassis by hand at one end so we could take some axle stands out and i aint geoff capes
Grrrmachine
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Sat Jun 05, 2010 2:09 pm

jonny323i wrote:... and i aint geoff capes
:chuckle:
psychochild187
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Sat Jun 05, 2010 2:42 pm

surly to swap engine for engine is easier to take just the engine out and not take the gearbox and engine together,.
im thinking that the engine wiggle onto the gearbox is better than the wiggle of tilting the engine and box together in and out without damaging the car.

if you only have axel stands and a small crane im talking.

ive droped engines and boxed under the car . but cant imagine putting it back that way
HairyScreech
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Sat Jun 05, 2010 3:37 pm

the top bolts on the gear box can be a pig that need 2 feet of extension bars.
if its coming out do it complete and then swap the boxes.
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psychochild187
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Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:51 pm

i manage to do the top bolts with a 11m spanner . its tight but do-able .
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:22 pm

psychochild187 wrote:i manage to do the top bolts with a 11m spanner . its tight but do-able .
So did I once, on a M20 that already had its head off. Spanner broke, and the resulting sharp edge managed to gauge a deep scratch in the top of the block, necessitating the engine taking a trip to the machine shop to have the deck skimmed!
mr_dink
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Sun Jun 06, 2010 11:06 am

psychochild187 wrote:surly to swap engine for engine is easier to take just the engine out and not take the gearbox and engine together,.
im thinking that the engine wiggle onto the gearbox is better than the wiggle of tilting the engine and box together in and out without damaging the car.

if you only have axel stands and a small crane im talking.

ive droped engines and boxed under the car . but cant imagine putting it back that way
Putting the gearbox in afterwards is a really sad job, especially if your lying on your back under a car thats on axle stands.

Engine and box in one is easier IMO, trolley jack under the gearbox to get it in place.
stonesie
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Sun Jun 06, 2010 11:39 am

mr_dink wrote:
Putting the gearbox in afterwards is a really sad job, especially if your lying on your back under a car thats on axle stands.

Engine and box in one is easier IMO, trolley jack under the gearbox to get it in place.

After doing it both ways (almost) I agree, i fitted my engine/box in 1 and found it relatively easy, 500 miles later the clutch i re-used as a last resort gave up and changing it with the engine on new, high strength mounts was a royal pain in the arse.
The top pair of gearbox bolts were soul destroying, it would have been quicker to pull the lump out again than all the fannying about slackening engine mounts and lowering the subframe on jacks.
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murran
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Sun Jun 06, 2010 4:55 pm

top bell housing bolts, do last after removing everthing else. jack under the sump.... remove the n/s engine mounting "leg" (or both) drop the jack down and the gap between the back of the head and the baulkhead increases by about an inch. enough room so you can get a 19mm spanner with another hooked in the open ended end down to the top bolts.
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Sun Jun 06, 2010 5:04 pm

engine and box out together everytime, it's very easy to do this way, :)

also a good time to check the box over and fit new bushes oil ect,
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