325i Cabby Project/Resto -Small update 18-11-10

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magpie
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:22 am

:roll:

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m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds :)
Ollie_bwoii
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:26 am

FMH wrote:who acts all oem.
What does this mean exactly? How do you act "original equipment from manufacturer"?
bss325i
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:26 am

FMH wrote:
bss325i wrote:
FMH wrote:I rather drive a obvious replica than make a silly coupe look like it was loaded with all optional extras.

And i commented on his car, on his post, why the hell do you need to be a **** and bring something else in to it.

Grow up.
Because its a bit rich coming from a chump like you having a dig about some rust and the price he payed for it!

Whats more silly is your "replica" is clearly scrap and you were mugged to the tune of 5 grand for it yet you have the cheek to have a dig calling it a rusty shitter or words to those effect and then have the gall to brag that you may have got it cheaper.

You cant even bring my car into it, your not even in the same league!
Not in the same league., i wouldn't want to be, cause you are just a bloody retard, who acts all oem. Face it, your car is a heap of sh*t but it suits you so its all good.

I'm not even going to bother arguing the point of paying what i did for it, cause what i told everyone was bullsh*t. I paid a fraction of that.

Now go sit in the corner and weep like a b*tch that you are.
My my resorting to childish insults now your backed into a corner after the realisation has hit home that you are a dumb c*nt who got ripped off and now you are back peddaling to suit your argument and try and save face from being ripped off!

You are clearly the retard to even say that my car is a heap of shit and just goes to show that you know f*ck all but then that was obvious when you bought that scrap!

You are just another Imy, a talker who does nothing but buy scrap.

Its like arguing with a tenage chav, LAME!
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:30 am

how barrys car a heap of shit a sport with less than 50k on the clock with lots of nice rare bits :mad: anyway lets not fill the the thread up with rubbish. :)
FMH
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:31 am

chav, look who's talking!

you started with insults and before you comment again, learn how the fu*k to spell.
bss325i
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:31 am

Nice PM from FMH,
FMH wrote:just shut the fuk up u prick
As i said, like arguing with a teenage Chav.

Do one you clown!
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:31 am

FMH wrote:
bss325i wrote:
FMH wrote: Attached to a heap of rust, knowing you can get a better one for biscuits. This cab was offered to me for less than he paid, but i refused it as i sensed it needed too much. Oh well, good luck with it anyway.
A bit of rust is alot easier to sort that two bodged on halfs of M3 rear quarters! :roll:
I rather drive a obvious replica than make a silly coupe look like it was loaded with all optional extras.

And i commented on his car, on his post, why the hell do you need to be a **** and bring something else in to it.

Grow up.
The car was offer to you for less then what i payed? :mad: What are you going on about. Alex bought the `` rust bucket of me`` The reason why i striped the car for parts was the rust what i found. What was left from the car was intened for someone who needed an engine and a box. Alex decision to put it back on the road was a brave one. You are doing a great job mate and doing us all a favour by posting all the info and the pics and maybe some of us will learn somthing out of this
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:32 am

on your bike you muppet.
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:34 am

andreia wrote: The car was offer to you for less then what i payed? :mad: What are you going on about.
Did you not offer it to me for £150 when i needed an auto engine and box!
bss325i
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:34 am

FMH wrote:chav, look who's talking!

you started with insults and before you comment again, learn how the fu*k to spell.
Learn some grammar and punctuation you idiot!

No, you started with the insults buy having a dig a Alex buy calling his car a rust bucket.

Now you've dragged me into this tit for tat bulshit.

I've said all i need to say, everyone thinks what im saying anyway!
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:36 am

Alex wrote:
Ollie_bwoii wrote::lol: and it fires up again. :D

Nice work though Alex, will definately be a "turd" to be proud of when done. Wish I had a project as well as a daily. 8)

BTW you still after some clocks? There is a set I just noticed on ebay BIN for a tenner or something like that.
i think blitz is sorting me out with some,i just need the speedo unit

Although i'am going to focus on the rust mainly now
I'll sell it to you as I think my speedo just needs SI batteries. I'll test first if its all working properly.
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:40 am

FMH wrote:
andreia wrote: The car was offer to you for less then what i payed? :mad: What are you going on about.
Did you not offer it to me for £150 when i needed an auto engine and box!

I was offered it for 150 but andy had someone who was paying the full price picking it up the next day so i offered to pay the full price to secure it
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:42 am

no problem blitz
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 1:22 am

Wow how did I miss all that. I like to wade in to these arguments normally. :cry:

Barry it's happening more and more these fooking gimps just won't go away.

:rofl: @ 'I didn't pay 5 bags I was just bullsh1ting. Haha jog on you got your pants pulled right down.

Alex Cleveland pannels in the Boro do a rear pannel for about £50. Just wack primer on it till it gets paint.
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 8:54 am

Alex PM sent. :D
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 8:59 am

Doh! Went to early!

Barry - why are you getting in a row with a Brummie coal miner - you can never come out clean!

I'm all for random abuse but there is an etiquette and art to it lacking in FMH's approach.

Alex, see what happens when you start messing with M20s...
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:08 am

You are just another Imy, a talker who does nothing but buy scrap.

poor Imy. :(
Phase I - Bodywork Complete
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... by+restore
Phase II - 2.8 stroker- Complete
Project II - 325 Motorsport Cabriolet Restoration.
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:38 am

Royalratch wrote:Doh! Went to early!

Barry - why are you getting in a row with a Brummie coal miner - you can never come out clean!

I'm all for random abuse but there is an etiquette and art to it lacking in FMH's approach.

Alex, see what happens when you start messing with M20s...
:lol:

Going to start ordering some panels, Hardest thing will be to get it all welded up as i have no electricity there, may have to move it back home for that :roll:
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:51 am

Or take it to a welder lol!
Alex
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:01 pm

Or that :lol:
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:21 pm

Woah, you need to chill out guy's :mad:

Good luck with it Alex, should be a minter once you've completed it :) Hopefully the rust isn't too bad :(

Oh and Barry, you don't need to bring my name into this topic mate, no need for it :wink:
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:23 pm

Alex - Brave man for tackling this on!

Threads like this actually give inspiration to folk who need alot less work restoring their car - Ahem 8) !

I was going to buy some of that rust primer to touch up some bits on the car on the weekend. Had a go at fitting in the lights i ordered from rav -only to notice the right hand side driver light area has a rust hole which was very very badly treated by some previous cowboy. Don't know whether you fill it up [rather not] or to have a proper weld job done on it. Will get a thread going soon with pics etc as any advice would be helpful :D

And oh - bss325i's car might be standard [prefer the term genuine :D], but even i can respect and admire low milage quality!

Would love to see it in person Barry :cool:
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:27 pm

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Alex I'm not trying to piss on your work but unless that rust is grind or cut out it won't take long to come back, sanding and wire brush will not go deep enough to get rid of the rust.

I would hate to see all your hard work go to waste.
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:33 pm

ImysE30 wrote:Woah, you need to chill out guy's :mad:

Good luck with it Alex, should be a minter once you've completed it :) Hopefully the rust isn't too bad :(

Oh and Barry, you don't need to bring my name into this topic mate, no need for it :wink:
A break down of the rust is as follows

Possibly New rear panel

New drivers side Cubby pocket in boot along with New Lower Right quarter

Drivers side Inner arch needs either a plate or a new section welding in at the front ive not dug into it much

Drivers side outer arch could do with a new lip

Above the sill on drivers side where lower long bit of trim goes, needs a long plate putting in it may even grind back to smooth bare metal ?

Inside the door shut needs a plate welding flush

ive always wanted to have a bit of a resto so why not? Most people would scrap it. People weld worse tech 1s back together, and i would imagine most sports or original tech I and II fitted cars out there are hiding a lot of rust that the owners dont even know about

its all on the drivers side, the passanger side doesnt even have a small pin head scab around the inner arches or outer arches :mad:
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:35 pm

Steve wrote:
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Alex I'm not trying to pee pee on your work but unless that rust is grind or cut out it won't take long to come back, sanding and wire brush will not go deep enough to get rid of the rust.

I would hate to see all your hard work go to waste.
You are correct, kind of rushed that

To be fair the anit rust primer isnt the correct thing to use either :chuckle:

Once i get myself a cordless grinder i will re do it
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:37 pm

^So you'd grind it down to bare metal?

Sorry just trying to understand the procedure on this. My E30 isn't as bad as this but i fear the worst for my passenger footwell.. :cry:

cheers
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:39 pm

The footwells are hot spots, luckly there good on this

bare metal is always best, if there are any holes new metal will need to go in

I'am learning too :)
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:47 pm

Ive just purchased this from bmminiparts for £52.59 Deliverd 8)

Cabby rear inner arch for drivers side, i think there around £70 from the dealers?

i will probably only require the front section of it

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this is what the inner arch currently looks like at the bottom, goes all the way up :eek:

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Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:58 pm

Better off fitting the whole thing Alex
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 1:01 pm

Alex wrote:
ImysE30 wrote:Woah, you need to chill out guy's :mad:

Good luck with it Alex, should be a minter once you've completed it :) Hopefully the rust isn't too bad :(

Oh and Barry, you don't need to bring my name into this topic mate, no need for it :wink:
A break down of the rust is as follows

Possibly New rear panel

New drivers side Cubby pocket in boot along with New Lower Right quarter

Drivers side Inner arch needs either a plate or a new section welding in at the front ive not dug into it much

Drivers side outer arch could do with a new lip

Above the sill on drivers side where lower long bit of trim goes, needs a long plate putting in it may even grind back to smooth bare metal ?

Inside the door shut needs a plate welding flush

ive always wanted to have a bit of a resto so why not? Most people would scrap it. People weld worse tech 1s back together, and i would imagine most sports or original tech I and II fitted cars out there are hiding a lot of rust that the owners dont even know about

its all on the drivers side, the passanger side doesnt even have a small pin head scab around the inner arches or outer arches :mad:
That is some rust :o

Mine is no where near as rusty, must be lucky :)

Keep it going :thumb:
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 2:01 pm

E30NutUK wrote:Alex - Brave man for tackling this on!

Threads like this actually give inspiration to folk who need alot less work restoring their car - Ahem 8) !

I was going to buy some of that rust primer to touch up some bits on the car on the weekend. Had a go at fitting in the lights i ordered from Rav -only to notice the right hand side driver light area has a rust hole which was very very badly treated by some previous cowboy. Don't know whether you fill it up [rather not] or to have a proper weld job done on it. Will get a thread going soon with pics etc as any advice would be helpful :D

And oh - bss325i's car might be standard [prefer the term genuine :D], but even i can respect and admire low milage quality!

Would love to see it in person Barry :cool:
Good job you ordered those lights from me then, otherwise you would never have noticed. :D
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 2:24 pm

Rav335uk wrote:
E30NutUK wrote:Alex - Brave man for tackling this on!

Threads like this actually give inspiration to folk who need alot less work restoring their car - Ahem 8) !

I was going to buy some of that rust primer to touch up some bits on the car on the weekend. Had a go at fitting in the lights i ordered from Rav -only to notice the right hand side driver light area has a rust hole which was very very badly treated by some previous cowboy. Don't know whether you fill it up [rather not] or to have a proper weld job done on it. Will get a thread going soon with pics etc as any advice would be helpful :D

And oh - bss325i's car might be standard [prefer the term genuine :D], but even i can respect and admire low milage quality!

Would love to see it in person Barry :cool:
Good job you ordered those lights from me then, otherwise you would never have noticed. :D
I did fit them on and they looked super :cool:

did not want to picture them just yet as everything else around them is a bit tatty..once I've got this rear light panel sorted ill have some pics!

btw rav - hear you are doing some smoked headlights? PM me

sorrry for jackin' your thread alex!
The footwells are hot spots, luckly there good on this

bare metal is always best, if there are any holes new metal will need to go in

I'am learning too
I heard the arches were hotspots winkeye mine seem to be fine on this, even the sills apart from one surface rust patch on the driver side..these will eventually see tech 1 skirts - done right so no scope for rust in the future!
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 4:34 pm

Alex wrote:
Steve wrote:
Image
Image
Alex I'm not trying to pee pee on your work but unless that rust is grind or cut out it won't take long to come back, sanding and wire brush will not go deep enough to get rid of the rust.

I would hate to see all your hard work go to waste.
You are correct, kind of rushed that

To be fair the anit rust primer isnt the correct thing to use either :chuckle:

Once i get myself a cordless grinder i will re do it
I've got that primer in a aerosol. I though it was just just a primer with anti rust properties. Obviously all rust has to be removed before using it.

You could use this to remove it 100% as long as its not terminal.

http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html

and this before paint

http://www.bilthamber.com/hydrate80.html

User thread

http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.c ... 081&page=2

Quite expensive but the tubs last a long time. There probably one of the best. I've heard only good things about them. There Waxoyl alternative is suppose to be the best as well.
Alex
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 5:28 pm

ive heard them products are good, i might give them ago blitz :)
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Wed Apr 28, 2010 5:33 pm

Their only located 7 miles from me. Shame I cant buy stuff from there in person.
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