M30 project for TTT...It Runs!!! 30/6/11

[ricey46]

Since the Sport engine is well ran in and is doing nicely, time for a change... so since the 316 (TTT) was an M10 manual, I decided that a nice M30 would be the right choice!! And since Aly (Alyman) had a spare engine sitting about, It'd be rude not to. I forgot to take any before pics but, it was rather dusty and dirty when I first got it, so I mocked it up with the M10 box/flywheel/clutch to check all was lining up ok, then it was straight outside for a clean up with the Jet wash.
Next up was a tidy up of the rocker cover, and since the M20 cover I done for the sport engine looked so good, I decided to do the same colour...





It came out quite nice I thought

Next was to get it fitted, then bolt up the nice engine mounts that I got from Lee (cheers mate )....





Since the Sport shell is sitting empty at the mo, i decided to test fit the M30 in it. This also was good for checking rad clearance and exhaust ideas...





Better get that front pulley cut off before it fit it...




A new water pump had already been fitted. A few more things bolted on, new stat housing gasket and new stat, wiring loom fitted, TB on, dizzy and leads, AFM and ICV on, along with a few coolant pipes. Might have to take them back off again, but they're cleaned up and fitted for now...




Also for the header tank, I thought instead of buying an E28 T-piece, I thought I'd see if an M20 facelift pipe and the M30 pipe could be moddified, and this is what I came up with...



I think it should work, we'll find out soon enough.



So just a new clutch to order, which will happen tomorrow. Get a fan and figure out some wiring for it. I've got a few parts on order from the stealers also, including the new throttle cable, and new intake boots. Just remembered I need to mod the bottom rad hose or buy the E28 Item, will do that later. Then it will be time to get it fitted, cant wait!!

Any things I've missed, shout them out!

[gareth]

i thought that engine looked familiar... i was nosing over it while hooning round scotland on the zone roam

A very tidy looking donk indeed.

now slap neil and get that LPG tank and the other M30 in his touring ASAP

[ricey46]

Cheers Gareth, It should be rather nice when finished

I've been trying to slap Neil into it for that past year or so!!lol. Also might take a while, as I've borrowed a few bit from it for mine, need to go raiding some scrappies...


Also I'm looking for a front Crank sensor if any one has one!?

[charlE30]

Looking good Paul, tech 1 335

Crank sensors are around £35 brand new from GSF but if you do get a second hand one check the resistance with a multimeter.

I wish I had your space to spread out in to do project work oh and that coolant hose will work tis what it did on mine many moons ago.

Keep us updated

Charlie

[ricey46]

Cheers Charlie, just ordered one from GSF!!

Yip the space is great, 2000sqft comes in handy!!lol.

[gareth]

the turkytorium isn't it?!!

[320Touring]

heh,

this lump should split the car in half!

I wont mind If you replace the borrowed bits with shiny new ones on my lump!

[ricey46]

Yip, the turkeytorium!!lol.

Yes neil i'll replace your parts!!

[leeparkes]

Nice work

That matrix pipe bodge will work fine and its how i done mine, dont forget it sits 'over' the brake servo like this




Dont forget to fire it up without the downpipes on

[gareth]

Dont forget to fire it up without the downpipes on

+1! it's an unwritten law!

[ricey46]

Cheers lee!

Never thought it was that close but i'll make it fit!

I had thought of firing it up on th floor!lol. But decided to leave it till it was in! And yes ill give it a run with no pipes!

[zaust]

Also for the header tank, I thought instead of buying an E28 T-piece, I thought I'd see if an M20 facelift pipe and the M30 pipe could be moddified, and this is what I came up with...



I think it should work, we'll find out soon enough.

For the header tank, i'm using the pre face lift one too, I have mounted it where the battery is which means you can retain the o/e e34 pipe work (just a little extension) and flow, keep the bottle above the thermostat housing, And carry a little extra water in the system to help with cooling.

[ricey46]

I've got a facelift tank to go in, just need to fit a bracket to hold it.

Thats a Sachs clutch ordered, and the Crank sensor arrived today from GSF!!

Might go raid some breakers tomorrow.....

[ricey46]

Right so back to this M30 swap.....

TTT came off the raod about a month ago, so I better get crackin on with it. Last night a I got the bonnet off, disconnected the Coil, ecu, throttle cable, all of the wee timeconsuming things sO i could get a good crack at it today.

First up was to remove the Sport's B25 lump..




Done...




M30 in...







In and bolted up. But it still seems to tight at the front to the rad. It's only on position2, but the dizzy's touching the m535 rad!? I've slackened off the mounts and pushed the engine as far back as I can get it, but I still had to put two nuts above the gearbox mount to space it down to stop the dizzy touching the rad! Any Ideas guys?? If you spot anything wrong, shout out!

Got the fuel pipes connected, PAS pipes, and matrix pipes done too..



Also connected the throttle cable. But I seem to think that this top rad pipe will be a bit too streached if connected without an extra piece added in. also a but tight to go on, might file down the rad connection too..


I also seem to have a bit of an electrical gremlin, I mist have connected a wire wrong somewhere, cause If I connect the battery with the ECU plugged in and ignition OFF, all of the dash lights come on, like the ignition is on. But if I disconnect the ECU all is normal, no lights. But the ECU seems to be getting power but not working, not powering the fuel pump and no spark.

Apart from that, Oh and the M10 prop is too long, will have to shorten it by around 55-60mm. And the gear linkage, shaft and selector rod are 20mm too long. All is fine!lol.

Any Ideas to my problems shout them out, I'll not be back down at the unit till either Monday or Tuesday.

[sheebie]

if there is enough clearance with the brake servo, get it back to position 3, it will help with you problems.

Im using lee's mounts too in position3 and have fitted a e34 rad in front. you may need to "massage" the brake servo/inlet.

[leeparkes]

Get it in position 3 first then mearsure from the gearbox flange to the diff flange and ill try to work out what prop you will need. If you say its about 50mm too long then once in position 3 your looking at 80mm so you need an E30 prop 80mm shorter than an M10 prop realoem doesnt say how long the M10 prop is though

The top hose will fit once your in pos 3 and it does bend slightly back



Sorry im no use with the wiring

Looking good btw

[ricey46]

right ok, I'll be up at the unit tomorrow night so I'll take the lump back out and massage the bulk head, and possibly the inlet and brake servo a little. see how we get on from there.

[leeparkes]

You dont need to massage the baulkhead i just done it as a precaution, to give a little more room for the servo grind the lip off the corner of the inlet manifold, again not really nessasary

Ive got a pic somewhere of where the baulkhead needs bashing

[leeparkes]

Area in red

[johnl320]

I've got the same setup as you and have found that a 325i linkage is the right length.

[leeparkes]

What prop you using John?

[charlE30]

325i linkage in P3 works fine,maybe 10mm out but not really noticable.

[leeparkes]

He's using an M10 box though

[johnl320]

I can't remeber what prop to be honest, I beleive its a 325 one, sorry

[johnl320]

The 325 linkage fits straight onto the M10 box, while you are there renew the selector joint on the back of the box

[ricey46]

Cheers guys, off down to the unit just now, so will see what I can do, I've got a 325 linkage and a 325 prop there so I'll see what fits.

[ricey46]

Yesterday after work i went up and done a bit more. Took the lump back out, took the hammer to the bulkhead then refitted the it. Getting it into position 3 wasn't easy though, had to remove the left engine mount as i couldnt get the engine up and back on to the rubber mount, but i got there. Once that was done i got the 325 gearshift to fit, also measured up the 325 prop to fit. I think it will fit fine but the center bearing is out by about 10mm so it cant be fixed up. Is there a thicker guibo that can be used? Will post up photos when i get in.
But the main thing is that it runs!!! Fired it up a few times last night. Recorded the 1st and 3rd time it started so ill post the videos later!

The wiring problem was that i had the two earths that are on the same cable as the coil connected to the +ve not earth!?

[ricey46]

Some photos and videos...



A lot more room now in position 3...


Prop fits but center bearing doesn't....



325 gearlinkage fits too...


Downpipes..




First Start up...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgOVH4L4xQY

Third start up....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iw2PlbajcaQ

Straight off the key!!

[ImysE30]

Looking very good, M30 chromie FTW

Have you got a picture of the engine bay just before you put the engine in?

[ricey46]

[ImysE30]

Cheers mate, need to get mine prepared

[ricey46]

Nowt really to prepair, it just squeezes in!

[StuBeeDoo]

Mate, I have a suggestion for your centre bearing issue.
320i prop. The front section is approx. 30mm longer than the 325i one to allow for the difference in gearbox lengths between the 2 cars.
HTH
Stuart.

[Alyman]

Twas a lovely sound when it fired up for the first time

Did you find the missing bit of pipe for the radiator workaround after I left?

[ricey46]

Stuart, thats a good shout, will see what I can find lying about for measurement!

Aly, yes It was, it sounded great earlier too, I got a piece of copper pipe from my mate and it fits good. Got it filled up with coolant and let it run for a wee while to see if it would bleed up, but I think there's an air lock somewhere as I'm not getting any thing at all out of the bleed screw!? But it was sounding mighty earlier with just the downpipes, some nice flames!!


Also guys, what are the connections to get the rev counter working??