Would this spray gun set do the job?
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bmbartlett
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Hi I've been researching hvlp spray guns and a suitable compressor and with my research and chat down the paint shop I've come up with the following and thought this be sufficent. What do you guys think? Any comments appreciated. I don't require a full on professional set up just enough to spray panels etc. Also what would you think the limitations of this set up? Thanks, dan
sealey 2hp 50liter compressor, 7cfm. £145+vat
kestrel spray gun 7cfm £29.95+vat
airline 10meter £10.95+vat
he quoted me £218.48 all in, does this sound a good price? Any thing you think I'd be better buying or anything? He also said about the filter to stop water at about a tenner
sealey 2hp 50liter compressor, 7cfm. £145+vat
kestrel spray gun 7cfm £29.95+vat
airline 10meter £10.95+vat
he quoted me £218.48 all in, does this sound a good price? Any thing you think I'd be better buying or anything? He also said about the filter to stop water at about a tenner
Last edited by bmbartlett on Sat Feb 13, 2010 6:15 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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bmbartlett
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Also what size tips do you recommend I should get, I was recomended
1.7mm set up for primers
1.2mm set up for topcoat
any advice greatly recieved
1.7mm set up for primers
1.2mm set up for topcoat
any advice greatly recieved
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bmbartlett
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would you purchase this compressor which i can get through my local paint store:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sealey-SA5020-50L ... 2ea7bbe1b9
or this more powerful one off ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wolf-Sioux-2-5HP- ... 3a57055031
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sealey-SA5020-50L ... 2ea7bbe1b9
or this more powerful one off ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wolf-Sioux-2-5HP- ... 3a57055031
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bmbartlett
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This this setup be suitable for spraying 2pac paint as well?
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town325i
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neither of them compressors will have enough puff to spray big panels i have a compressor with a 100ltr tank and that runs out of puff on big panels. 2 pack paint you supposed to have an air fed mask as 2 pack poisoning can eventually kill you

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m_jermyn
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No way that compressor will even come close mate..... You might want to budget alot higher then that... And to be brutely honest the gun is cheap garbage too..
Devilbiss is the best gun mate but its going to cost a whole lot more..
Devilbiss is the best gun mate but its going to cost a whole lot more..
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bmbartlett
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What am I going to gain by spending a lot more mate compared to this set up I've mentioned mate? Apart waiting for the compressor to pump up if I have a big panel
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town325i
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thats the difference between a good finish and an abosolute shite onebmbartlett wrote:What am I going to gain by spending a lot more mate compared to this set up I've mentioned mate? Apart waiting for the compressor to pump up if I have a big panel

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bmbartlett
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I don't understand, if the compressor is rated at 9.5cfm and the spray gun is rated at 7cfm this should be more that powerful?
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m_jermyn
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Spot on..... Although that gun would work for painting a house or something but no you car mate..town325i wrote:thats the difference between a good finish and an abosolute shite onebmbartlett wrote:What am I going to gain by spending a lot more mate compared to this set up I've mentioned mate? Apart waiting for the compressor to pump up if I have a big panel
Dont say you were not warned, I do this for a living mate and I dont even think you would be able to get the primer on with that compressor.... You might be able to paint a mirror but that will be it...
I am not having a go at you, I am just letting you know... Honestly when painting cars your budget reflects your finish....
When you spray a gun it makes a nice big fan in the mist... The paint in this fan is equal from top to bottom, cheaper guns their fan is thicker at certain points giving you a uneven coating in some areas resulting in less paint in points.... Of course you can compensate but then you get some runs... When painting metalics you will end up with a stripy finish and it will be very blotchy...
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e30_sam
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if u r using 2 k paint buy a devillbiss pri pro primer gun thats wot i use at work for waterbase cob u would use a 1.2 same with the clear coat the primer gun has a 1.4 in it would be better to use wet on wet primer unless u have filler ther hope this helps
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town325i
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body shops only use wet on wet primer for speed and to cut booth time to get jobs out faster and please dont use text speak its so annoying.e30_sam wrote:if u r using 2 k paint buy a devillbiss pri pro primer gun thats wot i use at work for waterbase cob u would use a 1.2 same with the clear coat the primer gun has a 1.4 in it would be better to use wet on wet primer unless u have filler ther hope this helps
i no a fair ammount on painting it was my job for nearly 10 years and still do some painting at home but im oldskool to what is being used now.

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e30_sam
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fair play mate i am looking in to getting a small compressor for home for wheels and small parts as work wont let me use their booth
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bmbartlett
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I've got a compressor sorted from my local tool hire. What do you think is the best general spray gun for basecoat, lacquer etc for my budget of about £50? I know the guns for £200 are better but I can't afford that much and also don't need that professional quality quite so much, cheers
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bazzabeemer
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Trust me mate i paint buses for a living,dont use 2k paint as a home set up.you need abig compresseor to have the puff to keep going on large panels.in line air trap a must.gravity fed spray gun is much better than suction cup.whatever you choose practise first.and obviously good luck,get it right and the satisfaction is immense! 
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m_jermyn
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Just get the very best you can afford mate..
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bmbartlett
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will do and thanks for that
on my bonnet with the peeling lacquer how should i go about preparing for respray? sand right down or what? also i have several small and some large stone chips, as well as a bludy key scratch right down the side 
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m_jermyn
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Mate if your clear is pealing it means it has been painted before and it been done with cheap garbage paint.... The reason it peels is either poor prep, flash off time has been too long or the most common is paint that had no UV rating..
The best way to fix this is to paint strip all the shiiit paint of and start again.. This eliminates any problems later
Next best way is to sand it down with 120p 180p 240p (or similar grades) paper then prime it then paint. The reason I say start with 120 p is this should remove most of the shiiit clear and minimise potential problems later..
Beware use cheap paints and you will be doing it again at some stage..
Mike
The best way to fix this is to paint strip all the shiiit paint of and start again.. This eliminates any problems later
Next best way is to sand it down with 120p 180p 240p (or similar grades) paper then prime it then paint. The reason I say start with 120 p is this should remove most of the shiiit clear and minimise potential problems later..
Beware use cheap paints and you will be doing it again at some stage..
Mike
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bmbartlett
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another quick question with metalic paint all people seem to say different about sanding it down before lacquering, some say not to, what is your opinion and if so what grade paper?
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GeoffBob
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I painted my whole project car, shown here, using a 50litre 2.5hp direct drive compressor, roughly the same as this one,

and I got excellent results. I could not afford (and neither did I have the space) for a larger compressor, so I took a few tips from a professional painter on how to get good results from a small rinky-dink compressor.
1) I work with a pressure regulator and water-trap close to my paint gun.
2) I work with 2K only, strictly outdoors (but far enough away from anyone to bother them).
3) I part thin with acetone on the final coat for an ultra-gloss finish.
4) I work with a small (half size) gravity feed hvlp SATA gun with a 0.8mm nozzel. This means that I get to work slower and more methodically than if I were working with a full size gun. It takes more time to complete a panel, but the compressor stays up at pressure (due to the lower air flow rate at which the smaller gun operates) and the slower pace makes it less likely that I will make a mistake.
5) Preparation, preparation and more preparation. I'd take a well prepared surface over a top-notch gun any day!
and I got excellent results. I could not afford (and neither did I have the space) for a larger compressor, so I took a few tips from a professional painter on how to get good results from a small rinky-dink compressor.
1) I work with a pressure regulator and water-trap close to my paint gun.
2) I work with 2K only, strictly outdoors (but far enough away from anyone to bother them).
3) I part thin with acetone on the final coat for an ultra-gloss finish.
4) I work with a small (half size) gravity feed hvlp SATA gun with a 0.8mm nozzel. This means that I get to work slower and more methodically than if I were working with a full size gun. It takes more time to complete a panel, but the compressor stays up at pressure (due to the lower air flow rate at which the smaller gun operates) and the slower pace makes it less likely that I will make a mistake.
5) Preparation, preparation and more preparation. I'd take a well prepared surface over a top-notch gun any day!

"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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bmbartlett
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cheers for that, good advice. loving your project by the way. Any particular small gun you recommend? you have a very nice finish on your bodywork
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m_jermyn
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Why would you sand down the metalics? Do you mean sand down the existing metalic? This is fine as it has a coat of clear above it so you would not actually be sanding the metalic.
If you mean the metalic you have just sprayed down then the answer is no....... You never touch the metalic not even with a tack rag... The little metalic particals sit up on the surface this is what gives you the sparkle and when you sand or wipe them you will disturb them... You will end up with a blotchy motly finish...
There is a different technique to painting metalics and its a whole lot harder then just a normal solid finish... ..
From what he has said above thats good advice if using a small compressor however I have no idea why someone would use acetone, I have never heard of this and my advice would be follow the direction on the paint tin to the letter, the guys that designed the paint are chemists and probably alot smarter then you and I when it comes to paints..
The only other thing with whats above it would be alot harder to get a streak free finish with a small gun when working with metalics..
Dont listen to anyone who gives you advice when painting just listen to people who do it for a trade.
If you mean the metalic you have just sprayed down then the answer is no....... You never touch the metalic not even with a tack rag... The little metalic particals sit up on the surface this is what gives you the sparkle and when you sand or wipe them you will disturb them... You will end up with a blotchy motly finish...
There is a different technique to painting metalics and its a whole lot harder then just a normal solid finish... ..
From what he has said above thats good advice if using a small compressor however I have no idea why someone would use acetone, I have never heard of this and my advice would be follow the direction on the paint tin to the letter, the guys that designed the paint are chemists and probably alot smarter then you and I when it comes to paints..
The only other thing with whats above it would be alot harder to get a streak free finish with a small gun when working with metalics..
Dont listen to anyone who gives you advice when painting just listen to people who do it for a trade.
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bmbartlett
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i understand what your saying about not sanding down metallic just half people on internet say one thing and other half say something else.
What is your opinion on how to get lacquer to shine once its gone off? some people say rub down with 1500 but someone i know said this is far to course and you will be down to the metallic in no time ruining your job and suggested 4000 or even just something like g3 and elbow grease what do you normally do?
also because im not changing the colour of the car how do i stop getting a step of paint on the edges of the door, inside the door etc.. cheers for your help:)
What is your opinion on how to get lacquer to shine once its gone off? some people say rub down with 1500 but someone i know said this is far to course and you will be down to the metallic in no time ruining your job and suggested 4000 or even just something like g3 and elbow grease what do you normally do?
also because im not changing the colour of the car how do i stop getting a step of paint on the edges of the door, inside the door etc.. cheers for your help:)
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town325i
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if your painting at home you will need to start with 1500 grit if you give 3 good coats of lacquer you will fine there should be plenty of paint on there so flat down to a good finish and then work your way down to 2000 grit this is to make polishing the flatting marks out easier and this part of the job is just as hard as the prep work. You will never get a good shine using G3 by hand you will need and adjustable speed polishing mop these can be bought for £35 to £45 the one i bought had a 3 year warranty and was only £40bmbartlett wrote:i understand what your saying about not sanding down metallic just half people on internet say one thing and other half say something else.
What is your opinion on how to get lacquer to shine once its gone off? some people say rub down with 1500 but someone i know said this is far to course and you will be down to the metallic in no time ruining your job and suggested 4000 or even just something like g3 and elbow grease what do you normally do?
also because im not changing the colour of the car how do i stop getting a step of paint on the edges of the door, inside the door etc.. cheers for your help:)

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bmbartlett
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how long after finished spraying to you recommend doing this, a week?
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town325i
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a couple of days if its summer and hot i use heaters to help my paint dry.

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Bladerider
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I doubt you'll be able to buy anything other than waterbase now.
I was going to suggest a small gun, as it'll not drag the compressor down too much if you only have a small one (and dont bother going on the peak ratings as they're never that good) and it will also allow an inexperienced painter to have more time to do a panel and not have to worry about quite as much material going on to the panel. This will help eliminate runs and stripes once you get the hang of it and will also give you a physically smaller piece of kit to chuck around.
My recommendation would be a Devilbiss SRi and find the larger volume cups for it, both can be had off Ebay for less than £100 if you're patient. I really wouldnt go cheaper than that, I bought Devilbiss Pro's and Sata digitals for my guys at my sprayshop because its simply worth it in the long run, and thats what I would recommend you get eventually as its simply not worth ruining all the prep with a cheap gun. Bodywork is over 90% prep and 10% in the booth, and screwing up that mix for the sake of 50quid is nuts !!
Hope this helps mate.
J.
I was going to suggest a small gun, as it'll not drag the compressor down too much if you only have a small one (and dont bother going on the peak ratings as they're never that good) and it will also allow an inexperienced painter to have more time to do a panel and not have to worry about quite as much material going on to the panel. This will help eliminate runs and stripes once you get the hang of it and will also give you a physically smaller piece of kit to chuck around.
My recommendation would be a Devilbiss SRi and find the larger volume cups for it, both can be had off Ebay for less than £100 if you're patient. I really wouldnt go cheaper than that, I bought Devilbiss Pro's and Sata digitals for my guys at my sprayshop because its simply worth it in the long run, and thats what I would recommend you get eventually as its simply not worth ruining all the prep with a cheap gun. Bodywork is over 90% prep and 10% in the booth, and screwing up that mix for the sake of 50quid is nuts !!
Hope this helps mate.
J.
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town325i
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you can still even buy celulose paint aswell as 2k paint from all paint mixing shops i use a gun that cost me £30 and i get ok results but at the end of the day im painting at home and you will always get bits in your paint no matter what but the bonus with me is i knew how to paint before i started painting at home.

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m_jermyn
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What you mean getting the shine back??? Mate if your painting 2K its ready to go off the gun.... No buffing needed... Acrylic is what you need to buff and even then you dont sand it... The only reason to sand it is if you want to remove the orange peel.. You asked how to stop paint getting in the apertures? Masking and man is that another skill that looks easier then it is..
Read above what bladerider says.... You can have the best body work and prep in the world but if your gun is no good neither will the end result.. Do it properly do it once...
Also it worth noting that when using a small gun you will take longer and this means you will end up with dry spots and also increase the chances of missing spots...
Painting a car is not really for beginers but I do wish you luck...
Read above what bladerider says.... You can have the best body work and prep in the world but if your gun is no good neither will the end result.. Do it properly do it once...
Also it worth noting that when using a small gun you will take longer and this means you will end up with dry spots and also increase the chances of missing spots...
Painting a car is not really for beginers but I do wish you luck...
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Bladerider
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Maybe in Scotland.town325i wrote:you can still even buy celulose paint aswell as 2k paint from all paint mixing shops i use a gun that cost me £30 and i get ok results but at the end of the day im painting at home and you will always get bits in your paint no matter what but the bonus with me is i knew how to paint before i started painting at home.
But down here you have to sign a waiver and have a specific reason to buy anything other than waterbase paint for normal use.
J.
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town325i
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wtf i dont live in scotland is it a big accident repair place you work for? if so then there is a certain ammount of emmisions a place is alowed to give off over a year thats why you use water based paint but the clear coat is still toxic thats not water based if it was it would fall off in the rain. do you use clear coat on straight colours tooBladerider wrote:Maybe in Scotland.town325i wrote:you can still even buy celulose paint aswell as 2k paint from all paint mixing shops i use a gun that cost me £30 and i get ok results but at the end of the day im painting at home and you will always get bits in your paint no matter what but the bonus with me is i knew how to paint before i started painting at home.
But down here you have to sign a waiver and have a specific reason to buy anything other than waterbase paint for normal use.
J.

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Bladerider
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Ooops !!
I must have been thinking of Kilmarnock, sorry about that
I own a bodyshop that specializes in race car prep. Although we do anything from fixing a scrape on a focus to restoring a ferrari as no-one can afford to be too chosy !!
And the regs are pretty straight forward. You cant use solvent based paints on passenger cars unless theres a reason. No one was talking about the lacquer, which is still solvent, and I suspect that like you I find the whole thing a bit stupid but if thats the regs then thats it !! Modern solids DO use a clear coat yes !!
The only colours that dont are for commercial use or are for much older cars, although for example we have just restored a TR6 for a chap and ended up having to respray the entire car in waterbase as his paints were totally unavailable now.
Hope that clears it up for ya.
j.
I must have been thinking of Kilmarnock, sorry about that
I own a bodyshop that specializes in race car prep. Although we do anything from fixing a scrape on a focus to restoring a ferrari as no-one can afford to be too chosy !!
And the regs are pretty straight forward. You cant use solvent based paints on passenger cars unless theres a reason. No one was talking about the lacquer, which is still solvent, and I suspect that like you I find the whole thing a bit stupid but if thats the regs then thats it !! Modern solids DO use a clear coat yes !!
The only colours that dont are for commercial use or are for much older cars, although for example we have just restored a TR6 for a chap and ended up having to respray the entire car in waterbase as his paints were totally unavailable now.
Hope that clears it up for ya.
j.
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town325i
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i bet the bloke with the TR6 (triumph owners are a funny breed)was funny with that some of them thing are worth a mint now. it seems some of the laws have changed since i was in the body work trade ive been out of it a few years nowBladerider wrote:Ooops !!
I must have been thinking of Kilmarnock, sorry about that![]()
I own a bodyshop that specializes in race car prep. Although we do anything from fixing a scrape on a focus to restoring a ferrari as no-one can afford to be too chosy !!
And the regs are pretty straight forward. You cant use solvent based paints on passenger cars unless theres a reason. No one was talking about the lacquer, which is still solvent, and I suspect that like you I find the whole thing a bit stupid but if thats the regs then thats it !! Modern solids DO use a clear coat yes !!
The only colours that dont are for commercial use or are for much older cars, although for example we have just restored a TR6 for a chap and ended up having to respray the entire car in waterbase as his paints were totally unavailable now.
Hope that clears it up for ya.
j.

