Getting the most from track tyres?

All the info you need to race E30's

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Conan
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Post Tue Jan 26, 2010 9:51 pm

Thinking of getting some Track wheels shod with something along the lines of 888s after experiencing the levels of grip availiable in a mates pug.

Couple of questions:

1)Does the extra grip mean greater stress on other components?

2)Which ones and do i need to beef them up to get the most from the tyres?
'91 Sterling Silver e30 320i SE
'96 Avus Blue e34 525i Sport
'92 Alpine White e30 318iS Touring
'86 Alpine White e28 M5 (008/187)
'02 Titan Silver e39 530d Sport Touring
'54 Cosmos Black e61 535d MSport Touring
'07 Sapphire Black e61 M5 Touring

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RPM
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Post Tue Jan 26, 2010 10:25 pm

You'll be fine with all standard bits as long as they are in good condition

Check the ball joints etc
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Conan
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Post Tue Jan 26, 2010 11:05 pm

Cheers :D
'91 Sterling Silver e30 320i SE
'96 Avus Blue e34 525i Sport
'92 Alpine White e30 318iS Touring
'86 Alpine White e28 M5 (008/187)
'02 Titan Silver e39 530d Sport Touring
'54 Cosmos Black e61 535d MSport Touring
'07 Sapphire Black e61 M5 Touring

[
Jon_Bmw
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Post Wed Jan 27, 2010 8:23 am

You want to get the camber set up properly so that you don't munch the outside of the tyres in a few minutes. Getting the pressures right will also help longevity and grip.

I'm half suprised by Jimmys response, I thought he would have advocated a fair few more things to go with R888's/semi slicks.

Btw, once you have used them, you'll never go back to road tyres for track driving. You'll just want to progress onto slicks. :( ££££s
Conan
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Post Wed Jan 27, 2010 8:45 am

To sort the camper out - is that eccentric bushes?
'91 Sterling Silver e30 320i SE
'96 Avus Blue e34 525i Sport
'92 Alpine White e30 318iS Touring
'86 Alpine White e28 M5 (008/187)
'02 Titan Silver e39 530d Sport Touring
'54 Cosmos Black e61 535d MSport Touring
'07 Sapphire Black e61 M5 Touring

[
Jon_Bmw
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Location: Salisbury

Post Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:50 am

You'll want different camber for most tracks, but as a rough guidence, potentially up to 2-3 degrees more(negative, obviously) than the factory specs I would have thought.

There are different ways of doing it, some cheaper than others. A BMW racer would be more useful to respond here... as it has been too long since i've messed about with one.

In theory you could do as Jimmy says and just put them on and try them, but with standard suspension geometry I suspect you might overheat them on the outside edge with 20 minute sessions, 5 one minute laps on overheated outside edges will muller them IMO. I found out the hard way with a set of slicks :( thankfully they were cheap part worns.

Track cars all get a bit sad once you take it away from being a road car, very expensive and continually uprating bits because you uprated something else. A money pit for sure, and they then become far too impractical on the road IMO.
Jon_Bmw
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Post Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:52 am

Btw, I still have a track car, so its not all doom and gloom :D Just it has got to that stage now that I don't like using it on the road really. It is a slippery slope changing a car to be 'good' on track.
RPM
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Post Wed Jan 27, 2010 11:02 am

Sorry I read it just as maintenance and not setup

As John says, you will fry the tyres in the first outing if you go out with a standard setup

Cut and paste from another thread:
RPM wrote:We run the PBMW cars standard at the rear (not allowed to alter except by ride height)

4/5 degrees negative on R888's

We also dial in more castor

Due to our regs we have to keep the damper rod fully visable in the turret so end up adding more neg camber than castor.

I dont have the geo sheet here but will dig out the correct figures tonight and PM them if you like?
If you are driving the car daily aswell then the 4/5 deg neg camber will destroy the tyres on the road, so you either need to get a comprimise on the setup or look at an adjustable setup with something like these: http://www.raceperformancemodified.com/ ... mounts.asp

There is lots to consider to dial a car in (toe, ride hieght, spring rates, damping, camber, castor etc etc etc) and it wont be the same for every driver or circuit.

Email me if you have any other questions or give us a call: 07974 569982
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UweM3
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Post Wed Jan 27, 2010 5:24 pm

if you run a still road suspension setup you won't get more than 3deg neg camber (the spring will hit the turret) and with spring rates below 400lbs front you WILL eat the outside edges of R888 if you push hard.
1) yes there is more stree on you car but not that it falls apart in one track day. As long your bushings, ball joints are ok there is nothing to worry. Just keep an eye on the stuff

2) how long is a piece of string? You can beef up EVERYTHING to get the most of any tyre.
Polybushes, springs, shocks.

3) don't forget your brakes! with R888 you will need more brake pads than before. Have a spare set with you
MillRat
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Post Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:23 am

Question:

I run Coilovers, yet still can't get more that 3.5 degress neg camber. I have camber/caster plates and eccentric control arm bushes.

What is the secret to more? Is it just a matter of bending the strut tops, or is there another way?
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Cheers,
Michael.
RPM
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Post Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:43 am

With the right topmounts and coilovers you should be able to get more than that, Mine is running circa 4/5 degress with some more adjustment there if I wanted to.

What coilovers are you running? and are you measuring on a dead flat surface?
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