M50 Developments - considering an M50? Read this.

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buster
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Sat Sep 03, 2005 8:15 pm

i have used the e30 cable.seems ok,just needed a rubber gromet in the hole on the braket unless ive missed something :?

My wiring is nearly done .Ive got 4 wires left to do. 2 of them are for the oil level sensor and the other 2 are both live's (12v) one for ews module which needs permanent live and one for the transponder which needs live when the key is at all positions except for when its out.Any ideas where i can take these from ??? if its from the fuse box how do i add wires there ?
For some reason my oil pressure light isnt on,any ideas ? the pin is connected. pin 5 in c101 to pin 23 in the old x20.

cheers
andy
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buster
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Sat Sep 03, 2005 8:17 pm

BTW guys,
got an evo rad in now,prop on also.just need to make gearbox mount ,sort out the brakes (still need an audi master cylinder) then the exhaust !!
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Sep 03, 2005 8:30 pm

The purple wire from the E30 ignition switch is live in all positions except off, but there is nothing on an E30 which detects whether the key is in or out.
Are you trying to set this up with an EWS transponder key actually working the E30 ignition switch?
The oil pressure light circuit is aboutas simple as car electrical circuits get, so should be fairly easy to solve. Try shorting the wire to earth at various points between the cluster and the pressure switch, and see where it fails to light.
ian332isport
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Sun Sep 04, 2005 8:16 am

buster wrote:My wiring is nearly done .Ive got 4 wires left to do. 2 of them are for the oil level sensor and the other 2 are both live's (12v) one for ews module which needs permanent live and one for the transponder which needs live when the key is at all positions except for when its out.Any ideas where i can take these from ??? if its from the fuse box how do i add wires there ?
For some reason my oil pressure light isnt on,any ideas ? the pin is connected. pin 5 in c101 to pin 23 in the old x20.

cheers
andy
Andy,

I got both of these from spare fuse spaces in the fusebox (can't remember which ones off the top of my head, but a quick check with a meter will tell you which is which). All you need, is the correct crimp terminal for the wire, and pop it in the spare hole. Once the fuse is inserted, you have a nice new fused supply.

To insert the new terminal, you need to remove a black plastic lock strip from the fuse box. If you look closely at the top of the fusebox, you can see the 4 or 5 plastic legs from this sticking up next to the outer end of the fuses. Just unclip these with a small screwdriver, and the plastic strip can be removed from underneath.

I get my fuse terminals (and all my other wiring needs) from here:

Vehicle Wiring Products

You would need part number 30-851 for the small EWS power wires.

Image

I think Brian covered the oil light nicely. Not a difficult circuit to trace. Could even be a blown bulb.

Cheers,

Ian.
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ian332isport
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Sun Sep 04, 2005 8:41 am

Brianmoooore wrote:The purple wire from the E30 ignition switch is live in all positions except off, but there is nothing on an E30 which detects whether the key is in or out.
Brian,

I think he means live in all positions (Acc, Run & Start), but not when the key is turned off (or removed).

Ian.
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Sep 04, 2005 9:57 am

In the E30 fusebox, positions 21 to 28 inclusive are all permanently live.
25 is normally free, and 26 is only used on tourings.
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buster
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Sun Sep 04, 2005 4:11 pm

cheers fellas,
I think he means live in all positions (Acc, Run & Start), but not when the key is turned off (or removed).
Yeah thats what i meant.
Need to get some of those fuse terminals now then.
The oil light problem i will check out also,been on with a lot of wiring lately,the obvious solution there thanks, had that many pin numbers and wire colours rolling around my head i didnt think of that :mad: :mad:
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Sep 04, 2005 4:18 pm

Fuse 12 should be live in all positions except key off.
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buster
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Sun Sep 04, 2005 4:23 pm

ok thanks brian,will go and check now.I can run the wires in and just need to get the crimp ends.
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buster
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Tue Sep 06, 2005 9:02 am

All the wiring done now appart from the 2 wires which i need to run to the oil level sender. :woohoo: :woohoo:
turned the key and engine turned over nicely. :cool: first turn.
Many thanks to Ian who gave me the charts to do it.
Cracking on with gearbox mount now :banana:
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Tue Sep 06, 2005 11:52 am

oh yes

how good does that feel :cool:

well done
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buster
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Tue Sep 06, 2005 6:06 pm

thanks toby,
seems more and more of us are junking the m20 and doing engine conversions.
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Tue Sep 06, 2005 7:16 pm

Won't be long now mate ! :woohoo:
ian332isport
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Tue Sep 06, 2005 8:36 pm

buster wrote:turned the key and engine turned over nicely. :cool: first turn.
Andy,

When you say it turned over, do you mean it fired up, or just cranked ?

Ian,
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buster
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Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:42 am

just cranked Ian,i didnt connect the ecu as it still hasnt got the gearbox mount on.Just let it crank a sec just so i knew it worked.
Have i done something wrong :? :? The gearbox is supported by a tempary metal brace to hold it up.

Heres my gearbox mount

Image

do you think it'll hold a 6 speed :lol:
ian332isport
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Wed Sep 07, 2005 10:44 am

buster wrote:just cranked Ian,i didnt connect the ecu as it still hasnt got the gearbox mount on.Just let it crank a sec just so i knew it worked.
Have i done something wrong :? :? The gearbox is supported by a tempary metal brace to hold it up.

Heres my gearbox mount

Image

do you think it'll hold a 6 speed :lol:
If you have wired the Starter circuit through the EWS box (pins 1 & 3), I'm surprised it even cranked without the ECU. It's possible that the starter is enabled if it sees a valid transponder code from the E36 key, but not 100% sure on that. Mine certainly won't even crank without the correct key.

What thickness/material is your gearbox mount made from ? It looks a little thin :clin:

Ian.

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buster
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Wed Sep 07, 2005 10:49 am

If i remove the key from the ariel it wont crank.Thats what i was testing.I taped the key to the ariel but not quite right.The relay in the ews box clicks when its in place.I just taped it to it when i got the ews to click.Then tucked it away behind the dash.
like you said though,no key no crank.
The gearbox pic was a mock up,its cardboard ! thats what i was laughing at. :wink:
ian332isport
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Wed Sep 07, 2005 1:21 pm

buster wrote:If i remove the key from the ariel it wont crank.Thats what i was testing.I taped the key to the ariel but not quite right.The relay in the ews box clicks when its in place.I just taped it to it when i got the ews to click.Then tucked it away behind the dash.
like you said though,no key no crank.
Ahh, that makes sense.
The gearbox pic was a mock up,its cardboard ! thats what i was laughing at. :wink:
Doh :oops:
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buster
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Thu Sep 08, 2005 10:22 am

Ian,do you still have that kenlowe fan ? if so you want to sell it ?
I ve got the rs turbo one but its small now compared to the size of the new rad.

cheers
andy
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Thu Sep 08, 2005 10:59 am

Andy,

Whats the diameter of your RS Turbo fan?

Im not sure if the one Ive got is an RS one or not. I think its a bit small, but its going to be replaced anyway as its a bit sha**ed.

Cheers
James
'91 325i Sport
'93 318i touring 16v
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buster
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Thu Sep 08, 2005 11:10 am

erm,not sure.
heres a pic of it before i pulled the m20 out.

Image

it works well and keeps engine just below middle on water temp gauge,just looks a bit small compared to the e36 rad.
jmc330i
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Thu Sep 08, 2005 11:18 am

I cant really tell if thats bigger or smaller than mine. :gay: 8O

Im using the M20 'air con' rad, so its the same width as a normal M20 rad, just a little taller.
Mine should be an RS fan, but I got it with a load of other bits as a job lot, so Im not 100% sure.

Will probably get another RS fan when I come to replace this one.
James
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ian332isport
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Thu Sep 08, 2005 2:21 pm

buster wrote:Ian,do you still have that kenlowe fan ? if so you want to sell it ?
I ve got the rs turbo one but its small now compared to the size of the new rad.

cheers
andy
Andy,

Sorry mate, the fan went to a new home ages ago (it was a Pacet).

The RS Turbo fan is 12" in diameter, and the Pacet one I had was 14", and fitted on the E36 rad nicely. I'm currently using a standard E30 Aircon fan which is also 14".

Cheers,

Ian.
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Sooty
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Thu Sep 08, 2005 5:25 pm

Got a couple of general questions if anyone can help :?: (might as well ask whilst waiting for my engine to come tomorrow :woohoo:)

1. I know that the alloy heater pipes that come through the bulkhead have to be 'tweaked' to gain some clearance, but what do you do if you've got plastic pipes like mine? Can't spot any mention of it in here.

2. An American site (AKG Motorsport IIRC) reckon that all the soundproofing material has to come off the blower motor cover panel. Again, I can't find any reference to anyone on here doing it. Yank B.S. perhaps?

3. What seems to be the most popular option for the cover to carry the wiring looms across the back of the engine bay?

Anyone help ?

Iain S
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Thu Sep 08, 2005 6:33 pm

1. Alloys pipes?? Mine were plastic.
Ive cut between 1/2 and 1 inch off the plastic pipes and used the spare odds and sods of heater hose I had to connect it all up. Some 90degree bends will do the trick - I think Ian used the Samco ones.
I didnt have to cut as much of the pipes because when I cut my plenum to make it fit round the brake servo, I cut some extra off the back to leave a bit more room to clear the heater pipes.

2. I havent removed any soundproofing from mine.

3. Its possible to use the original E36 wire box, although I ended up cutting it off :roll:
Ive gone for a bit of a home-made approach as a temporary measure. I think Andy is going to use the covers found on the 4 pot E30s.
James
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'93 318i touring 16v
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Thu Sep 08, 2005 7:15 pm

mine were plastic too,
had to cut about 3/4" off mine :wink:
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Brianmoooore
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Thu Sep 08, 2005 8:10 pm

1/ I got enough clearance by rotating the pipe with the bent end through 180 degrees. Small locating tab to be removed to do this.
Don't have any rubber heater hoses entering the cabin. - Safety/liability issues.

2/ soundproofing all in place.

3/ E34 wiring box is definitely best. Hang it from the top of the heater fan cover plate, stick the ECU in a waterproof box on the front battery tray, fit a 20mm cable gland near the fusebox side, take a E30 C101 plug with about 300mm of cable attached, and make all the joins inside the wiring box.
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buster
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Fri Sep 09, 2005 5:00 am

i junked the e36 wiring box as i couldnt get my strut brace back on with it in place.The e34 wiring box looks narrower than the e36 one,looks ok.Im going for the 4 pot cover ,looks neat and factory looking.

I cut about 1 inch from both my heater pipes and fastened them inside the firewall with jubilie clamps (was a right pig to do).

No sound proofing removed.
Sooty
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Sat Sep 10, 2005 1:56 pm

:thumb: :thumb: Thanks for the info Guys.

Picked up the M50 last night & started to pull various bits off & look closely but now I'm a bit concerned.
Cast into the side of the block is "BMW 1 735 783". I'm assuming this is the last seven digits of the block part number yet I can't find it in the ETK. The rest of the block is in a bit of a cruddy state with oil leaks (it's obvious that the top end has been off at some point) so where else can I look for identifying numbers?

As well as that, painted on the side of the block, right underneath the inlet manifold where it is very difficult to see, is "E36" (in bright yellow paint & obviously by hand). Am I being overly suspicious or does this sound like a scrapper special? The guy I bought it from is a genuine bloke that I DO trust & he definately pulled the motor from a low mileage, E34 525i.

And finally; the injectors are green tops and I'm sure I've seen a picture somewhere of M50 injectors that were a different colour (or is this paranoia creeping in from finding the sh*t above).

This swap has been a right, royal PITA from the very beginning & I'm getting close to the point where I call the local scrappers & ask them to just come & get the f*****g thing and I'll go buy a D****o :cry:
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Sep 10, 2005 2:05 pm

If it's E34 the sump is at the front, if it's E36 the sump is at the back.
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buster
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Sat Sep 10, 2005 2:08 pm

is it in the e30 now ?
Its possible the 5 series has had the engine replaced previously with a e36 one,as they are the same appart from the oil pump and sump.
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Sep 10, 2005 2:11 pm

M50B20 injectors are alight grey/blue colour.
M50B25 injectors are under a cover and I can't see them, and the wife is nagging me to get out of the door and into the car.
Sooty
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Sat Sep 10, 2005 2:24 pm

Cheers Guys.

Yeah, sump pan is at the front so it's definately E34 in that respect.

It's not in the E30 yet and nor will it be until I'm a bit more certain about what it is & what's happened to it.
When it stops raining, I'll call out the RNLI to take me out to the shed (which is currently floating away) so that I can do some more looking.
:(
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buster
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Sat Sep 10, 2005 2:45 pm

I'll call out the RNLI to take me out to the shed (which is currently floating away) so that I can do some more looking.
:chuckle: sorry m8,made me giggle,its no fun is it.We had that down pour up here yesturday.

Good luck,
Land ahoy :surrender:
Sooty
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Sat Sep 10, 2005 4:07 pm

Cheers Andy. :)

I've managed to track down the injector photo I mentioned & I was wrong thank f**k.
325i ones ARE green; it's the 328i ones that are a different colour.

Now to sort out the block questions....................where's me flippers?
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