bimmerforums.com- e30 vader seat brackets
E36 seats into e30
Moderator: martauto
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mc_hawkings24
- E30 Zone Regular
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- Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: surrey
i was wondering this today, anyone know if 36 seats fit the floor pan??
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madaboutthe30
- E30 Zone Camper
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I was looking to do that a while back, ended up buying seats from a 318is instead!
As far as I remember some work needs to be done, but not a lot
As far as I remember some work needs to be done, but not a lot
Dreaming of the day I purchase an E30 M3
--- e30 motorsport cab-- in the process of becoming a trailer queen
--- Z4M Coupe - daily driver
--- e30 motorsport cab-- in the process of becoming a trailer queen
--- Z4M Coupe - daily driver
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mc_hawkings24
- E30 Zone Regular
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- Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: surrey
i think the floors double skinned from what i remember from last month, ie no visible bolts poking out underneath?
You can also weld them in. I've don it twice and used both drilling an extra 2 holes and welding and the welding was by far the easiest option for me.
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steviec_lj
- E30 Zone Regular
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I did this yesterday.
The E36 seats need to be around 26mm further towards the doors than the E30 mounting points allow. Drill 4 new mounting holes for the seats, taking care with the center most rear bolt as this needs to go through a sloped sheet.
Also, not forgetting to add in the crush tubing, in case of an accident. I had a guy helping me who used to work on building ambulances years ago, so knows all the techno-mumbo-jumbo regardin the fitment of additional items onto vehicle chassis.
You could use the plates, but lets face it, thats the easy, boring way! They're also only as strong as the plate you make them from, and if you get a measurement out, you'll have to start all over again.
All E36 seats have the same bolt pattern, so you can use them from whatever vehicle you want.
Also, the floor on the front centre console bolts is 4 skins thick. The front door bolts is 2 skins thick. The rear bolts are also 2 skins thick. Quite note also, when drilling the passenger side door holes through, to watch out for the fuel pipes, as they run this side of the vehicle, and if your measurements are out, you're f*****
The E36 seats need to be around 26mm further towards the doors than the E30 mounting points allow. Drill 4 new mounting holes for the seats, taking care with the center most rear bolt as this needs to go through a sloped sheet.
Also, not forgetting to add in the crush tubing, in case of an accident. I had a guy helping me who used to work on building ambulances years ago, so knows all the techno-mumbo-jumbo regardin the fitment of additional items onto vehicle chassis.
You could use the plates, but lets face it, thats the easy, boring way! They're also only as strong as the plate you make them from, and if you get a measurement out, you'll have to start all over again.
All E36 seats have the same bolt pattern, so you can use them from whatever vehicle you want.
Also, the floor on the front centre console bolts is 4 skins thick. The front door bolts is 2 skins thick. The rear bolts are also 2 skins thick. Quite note also, when drilling the passenger side door holes through, to watch out for the fuel pipes, as they run this side of the vehicle, and if your measurements are out, you're f*****
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steviec_lj
- E30 Zone Regular
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- Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 11:00 pm
- Location: Scunthorpe, North Lincolnshire
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Shortly yes, just boshing them up to PhotoF***It
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steviec_lj
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 255
- Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 11:00 pm
- Location: Scunthorpe, North Lincolnshire
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Photos of E36 fronts in an E30. These originally came from a breaker 318tds Compact, and are getting a recover, from a set of E36 Saloon leathers. Also going in is the E36 318tds rear bench with custom parcel shelf and door cards.
None of it is a straight swap, it all requires new fixings, bracing, crush tubing and catches welding in, which is being handled by the professionals.
I'll get some better pictures of the mounting points once I've had a chance to get the crush tubing welded into place totally and I can remove the seats.
None of it is a straight swap, it all requires new fixings, bracing, crush tubing and catches welding in, which is being handled by the professionals.
I'll get some better pictures of the mounting points once I've had a chance to get the crush tubing welded into place totally and I can remove the seats.