DIY clutch replacement M20 how hard?

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takamichinoko
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:21 am

Hi everyone,
my clutch is dedinately on it's way out, biting point very high And lots of fun noises etc.
I'm a student and I don't want to pay someone to change it for me cos I can't!!! I'm pretty good with a set of spanners, just wondering if the top bolts on the bell housing are "getable" without dropping the engine... Please say yes!
Oh and I'll be doing it on my back, oh joy...

Thanks
Simon13
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:26 am

they are but you'll want alot of extentions or 1 very long one to get to them. The rest is alot of nuts and bolts. Most of which are very tight and covered in oil. Have fun.

An LUK clutch kit from GSF is up to £125 now!
Ant
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:28 am

bolts are a PITA to access, starter is going to be the biggest chore on your back.

M20/50 the worst, M40 and M10 easiest by far

gearbox is heavy but aren't they all !

the clutch itself is no issue to change, I would strongly recommend new bolts are ordered from the stealers for the cover to flywheel assy, they often round off , better to be covered for this if doing the job DIY on the floor.

Enjoy !
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daimlerman
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:02 pm

I know this sounds daft,but if you are playing with a 6 cylinder car,there is very little more involved in pulling the engine/gearbox out as a unit as apposed to removing the gearbox on it's own.
You will need to borrow/hire a crane and remove the radiator,but the ease of sliding the 'box off and back on when you can straddle it on the ground will be so much better!
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bss325i
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:27 pm

I would not be removing the engine and box just to change the clutch. To do that alot more things have to be removed unbolted plus you will need to bleed the cooling system after.
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:09 pm

I'm thinking of changing my gearbox DIY.

Could someone put some figures to the length of extension required, the size of the extension 3/8 or 1/2 or god forbid 3/4 drive? And also the socket size of the bolts/nuts are that are hidden and how many are there that are hidden?

Many thanks :D
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Can anyone suggest how to test if the boot lights are staying on with the boot shut?

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lock the wife in there
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takamichinoko
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:21 pm

An LUK clutch kit from GSF is up to £125 now!
I know i just checked that! What the hell? i swear they were under a hundred a year ago?!
the clutch itself is no issue to change, I would strongly recommend new bolts are ordered from the stealers for the cover to flywheel assy, they often round off , better to be covered for this if doing the job DIY on the floor.
Thanks for the advise i will be doin that.

I would love to take the engine and have a proper fiddle with it but just a case of time, space and money really.

Does anyone know where else i could get a clutch for a little cheaper? ive checked ECP and GSF.

Thanks
Ant
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:24 pm

Fit a good quality clutch dude !, LUK or OEM,

no Fleetway or other POS budget thing, you'll not want to do the job twice.
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town325i
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 7:22 pm

a good alighnment tool is an old shaft out of a gearbox i cut up a shagged gearbox for this
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:39 pm

Another tool you need to make up to make things easier is two 6" lengths of M12 studding, or two 6" M12 bolts with their heads cut off, and a slot for a screwdriver ground into the cut ends.
Screw these into the engine where the two largest bell housing bolts fit, and slide the gearbox back into place on these when you refit it. All you have to do to refit the box is to keep the gap between the engine and box parallel as you slide the box on., and there is no danger of damaging the input shaft or spigot bearing.
The only bolt that might be overlooked when removing the box is a little 6mm hex headed bolt on the right hand side, with the head facing forwards.
e30topless
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:32 pm

daimlerman wrote:I know this sounds daft,but if you are playing with a 6 cylinder car,there is very little more involved in pulling the engine/gearbox out as a unit as apposed to removing the gearbox on it's own.
You will need to borrow/hire a crane and remove the radiator,but the ease of sliding the 'box off and back on when you can straddle it on the ground will be so much better!
I agree, sounds daft but it's far easier to pull the lot out and do it on the floor
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:43 pm

If you do take the whole engine and box out, take the opportunity to change the sump gasket.
leeparkes
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Thu Jan 07, 2010 12:10 am

Get some cheap goggles from B&Q, oily sh1t in your eye is not amusing when your on your back wrestling with a gearbox.
Cypriotgeeza wrote:I done both my mates in my old 318is
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takamichinoko
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Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:55 pm

Thanks a lot for all the advise guys, Im sure ill come crying for help soon but ill keep you up to date!

Taka
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