318iS Head removal??

Post Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:33 pm

Ok has anyone any hints or tips on how to do this, i know the basics of engine head removal, but what shud i do or not do on the 318iS??

i.s cam removal, is it necessary??

Post Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:39 pm

The bit that would scare me about a 318is is the timing chain. Sorry for that useless comment. lol

Post Wed Aug 24, 2005 1:07 am

LOL!! That it was mate but yea, im kinda scared about that bit myself!!

Post Wed Aug 24, 2005 8:58 am

http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318is ... imingchain

Have a look at the above link. Brendan has written about as much info on the iS as anyone else. There's not a specific bit about the cylinder head removal, but he has covered the timing chain. Could also email him. Plus he's on the Emerald Isle too.

Good luck. Have you decided what hte fault is yet?

Post Thu Aug 25, 2005 11:29 am

I'm in the process of replacing a perished profile gasket on my 318is. which means going down to Head Gasket level. i'm scared sh*tless!

We didnt take the cams out, we have been very carefull with the whole procedure though...

CaesarBob is right, there are no actual guidelines that i have found online for M42 head removal, just lots of info on the problems with the profile head gasket. i put some pictures of the dismantling on here back in June i think....

i can put some more piccys on and a list of parts if you want - but you aren't replacing that gasket are you?

Post Sun Aug 28, 2005 2:34 am

Nah, i need to remove the head to find out whether or not my head has cracked or if it is just the head gasket, so u can remove the head without removing the cams???

Post Sun Aug 28, 2005 2:37 am

CaesarBob wrote:

Good luck. Have you decided what hte fault is yet?

Again nah, thats why i need to remove the head, as stated on another post elsewhere, the No2 plug is fouled up with that gunk that is made when the oil and water mix, im hopin its just the gasket but aint bein to confident!! LOL!!

Is his email addy on that site??

Post Sun Aug 28, 2005 11:37 am

M42 engine would be covered in the E36 4-pot Haynes manual, if that's any help.

Post Tue Aug 30, 2005 9:19 am

Yea, so ive been told, but it seems a bit daft to go out and buy another manual just for the engine??, but it may have to be bought tho!!

Post Tue Aug 30, 2005 9:59 am

1. The Ãƒ”šÃ‚£15 or so for a Haynes book is well worth the money...Especially if you're a bit of a novice at big(ger) tasks...

2. You won't need to remove the cams...Just disconnect the chain (probably a removeable link) when the engine is at TDC. Mark everything so you can easily re-align when it comes to re-assembling.

It will probably be easier to leave the manilfolds attached (regardless of what the book says) and dis-assemble on the bench. Just remember to have an extra set of hands when you come to lift the head off the block..

Post Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:09 pm

Cheers for the advice buddy, though i think im just goin to release the tensioner which will hopefully give mer enuff play to lift the chain of the camshaft pulleys, if not, then i will remove the cam pulleys as well, after i mark thier positions of course!!

Post Tue Aug 30, 2005 8:42 pm

The chain runs too close to the wall of the head, thus you cant get the chain over the sprockets. You need to take off the deflection wheel at the bottom.

A

Post Tue Aug 30, 2005 10:15 pm

too late, have already removed one of the cam sprockets, also found that the cams and the bodies/carriers had to be removed as the socket could get past them to get at the head bolts!!

Post Tue Aug 30, 2005 10:33 pm

You need the E36 manual for the engine. Ãƒ”šÃ‚£15 well spent, or look on Ebay.

You can remove the cam sprockets, leave the chain in place.

Timing chain is nothing to worry about as long as you spend a bit of time confirming TDC position. It's worth getting a cam locking tool made up too.

Post Tue Aug 30, 2005 10:38 pm

yea i have the flywheel locked in the tdc position with an 8mm drill bit, i just need some wy of lining up the cams again when i rebuild the head

Post Thu Sep 01, 2005 8:41 pm

You can line the cams up by eye if you're desperate. Or by putting a straight edge over the top.

In the E36 manual it says that you need a special tool to compress the valve springs before removing the cam bearing caps, otherwise cam damage can result.

Post Fri Sep 02, 2005 12:45 pm

Oops!!! too feckin late for that!! How would such a tool work tho??

Post Fri Sep 02, 2005 6:00 pm

Blackie_No1 wrote:Oops!!! too feckin late for that!! How would such a tool work tho??

Bolts into the spark plug holes and a big lever pins the cam down, you undo all the bolts and gently raise the cam off with the lever of this tool.

The cams are hollow they will break really easy.

A

Post Fri Sep 02, 2005 7:05 pm

Has anyone bought one of these tools? I need to buy one for when I replace the lifters.

Post Sat Sep 03, 2005 11:47 am

Great, nopw how do u mean damage them?? And wat exactly are you referring to when u say bearing caps?? How does thois tool goll all 8 or 16 of the valves down at once??

Post Sat Sep 03, 2005 5:59 pm

Bearing caps - the "bridge" shaped bits of metal that each have two bolts through them. Five of them hold each cam in position.

Haynes manaul says remove cam sprockets. Nothing about removable link in the chain.

Special tool is shown in E36 manual. Presses all 8 valves down at the same time.

My mate (ex BMW) said he thought you could just undo the bearing cap botls very carefully and the cam would be fine.