When the cab returns from the bodyshop, i intend to have the above done. What can i expect to pay, with me providing
all the required parts?
Brake line replacement. How much?
Moderator: martauto
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daimlerman
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No reason why you should not do this yourself,kunifer brake pipe is very easy to work with,buy it by the roll,think I bought 25' for only a few quid,you need a brake pipe flaring tool,of course and a Gunson easy bleeding thing makes the job quite straight forward.
If you remove the old steel pipes with reasonable care,you will have a pattern to work from for cutting and bending up the new pipe.
S/S braided flexi hoses are expensive at £80 or so for six,but the current PPC shows how to make your own....
Real problem is the flexi that passes over the rear beam,but it can be done with both the fuel tank and the beam in place,if I can,so can you!
Take your time and do one pipe at a time,then get 'er indoors to bring you a cuppa before the next one!
If you remove the old steel pipes with reasonable care,you will have a pattern to work from for cutting and bending up the new pipe.
S/S braided flexi hoses are expensive at £80 or so for six,but the current PPC shows how to make your own....
Real problem is the flexi that passes over the rear beam,but it can be done with both the fuel tank and the beam in place,if I can,so can you!
Take your time and do one pipe at a time,then get 'er indoors to bring you a cuppa before the next one!
Youth is wasted on the young.
It's a lot easier if you're going to be replacig the whole lot, have a look and see how many spring clips you'll need too as a lot of the time it's easier to snip the hard pipe and twist the clip off with some pliars and pull the whole lot through the bracket than it is to try and wrestle with joints in awkward places that look like they've come straight off the titanic!
Having now done the job and learnt from my mistakes, I'm fairly sure I could do all the rears again in 2-3 hours.
The hardest part I found on my car was the joint in the engine bay which was virtually impossible to get to thanks to the steering column, arb and subframe underneath and power steering resevoir, throttlebodies and airboxes from the top. I assume access might be a bit easier on a more normal rhd e30.
Having now done the job and learnt from my mistakes, I'm fairly sure I could do all the rears again in 2-3 hours.
The hardest part I found on my car was the joint in the engine bay which was virtually impossible to get to thanks to the steering column, arb and subframe underneath and power steering resevoir, throttlebodies and airboxes from the top. I assume access might be a bit easier on a more normal rhd e30.
cheers,
harry
harry
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e301988325i
- E30 Zone Addict

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As long as it is safe, there is no reason you can't take a different route ro make things easier. . .
My local trusted mechanic did this on my E36, saving me paying him to drop the fuel tank

My local trusted mechanic did this on my E36, saving me paying him to drop the fuel tank
I said:
Can anyone suggest how to test if the boot lights are staying on with the boot shut?
e30topless said:
lock the wife in there
Can anyone suggest how to test if the boot lights are staying on with the boot shut?
e30topless said:
lock the wife in there
- gooner1
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The reason i asked for a price, is because i hate fiddly jobs. Not too bad with the heaviyer
type of stuff, but i tend to get angry and frustrated with more delicate work.
asmith88, that,s not to bad, did you supply the pipes/clips
type of stuff, but i tend to get angry and frustrated with more delicate work.
asmith88, that,s not to bad, did you supply the pipes/clips

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fuzzy
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you can buy a roll of copper pipe and all the required ends cheap and make it up yourself with a cheap pipe flaring tool. its easy and not that fiddly and you can reroute them to suit yourself for easier future access.
- gooner1
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Will deffo pop round Roy. Have a screen, but not %100 sure it has a green tint.
Will give you a bell in the week
. Maybe getting my alloys/metals mixed up here,
but is there not an issue with Copper brake lines
Will give you a bell in the week
but is there not an issue with Copper brake lines

- gooner1
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Just searched and found this
Brianmoooore
E30 Zone Team Member
Joined: Jan 11, 2005
Posts: 24459
Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:39 am
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris-W wrote:
make them up out of copper (cunifer)
copper and cunnifer are two different things. Copper should not be used for brakelines, as it can become brittle with vibration.
Cunnifer (a copper/nickel alloy) is ideal for brake lines.
Available for a few pounds at any motor factors. No need to pay ebay carriage charges.
_________________
So, i was half right.
Brianmoooore
E30 Zone Team Member
Joined: Jan 11, 2005
Posts: 24459
Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:39 am
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris-W wrote:
make them up out of copper (cunifer)
copper and cunnifer are two different things. Copper should not be used for brakelines, as it can become brittle with vibration.
Cunnifer (a copper/nickel alloy) is ideal for brake lines.
Available for a few pounds at any motor factors. No need to pay ebay carriage charges.
_________________
So, i was half right.

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daimlerman
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I would refer you back to my post,second on the thread....gooner1 wrote:fuzzy, was thinking of using copper to, then something stirred in what passes for
my memory nowdays.
Youth is wasted on the young.

