Starter motor - anythhing I should check before I change it?

[PaulyV]

So, my car had a knock during the week whilst parked...actually i suspect the clampers of pushing it onto double yellows from behind and then clamping it, but that's another matter.

Upshot is the car remains drivable, but no longer mint (sob) yet it will not start. The AA guy looked oover it last night and summised that it was the starter motor - the battery is fine but nothing on key turn, we have tried rocking the car whilst in gear to turn it.

My question is - is there anything else i should check before chaning the starter motor? He didn't check any electrics or connections before giving his diagnosis. A forum member has kindly offered me a starter so I intend to buy that but wished to make sure i had done everything prior to that.

The car does appear to have an immobiliser.

Also how easy is this part to change? anyone got a guide?

Thanks

[e301988325i]

You should check at the stater that there is a permanent +12v, also that the earth to body strap is in good condition.

With an assistant turning the key, or bridge two terminals of the diagnostic socket (but I don't know which two). you should get a +12v feed on the starter solenoid. If not the immobilizer is likely to be at fault, starters normally go over time and start 'clicking' when you turn the key but not turning over

[PaulyV]

Okay, I summised that it is pins 11 and 14 I need to short, and after doing so the starter motor does not turn over, however what I do get every time i make a connection is a single click from behind the black plastic just below the windscreen up from the diagnostic area - is this the ECU?

If so does this click suggest anything?

Thanks

Pauly

[daimlerman]

I quess that this is an M40 engine?
If so,starter motor is at least easy to get at,on an M20 it is a proper bugger...
Dis-connect the battery,this is a must do,the starter has a big thick cable direct from the battery to the starter and a slip with a spanner WILL short out and could cause injury to you and damage to your car...
Un-bolt the electrical connections,they are all different sizes so it is difficult to get them wrong on re-assembly,remove the top and bottom mounting bolts and lift the starter out.
You may need to work from under the car to get enough torque to slacken the bolts,an assistant to guide the socket onto the correct bolt in the engine bay often helps.
Not too sure what your 'click' is,could be the DME relay doing it's stuff...

[PaulyV]

Thanks - that is clear. Simply iwhsed to make sure it was the starter before embarking on this.

Any other opinion is welcome. If I am shorting pins 11 and 14 should the starter actually turn over? Does theignition need to be at any position to ensure this? Should I be able to hear my fuel pump when I turn the key?

Thanks again.

Pauly

[e301988325i]

Have you done the electrical checks I suggested earlier??

[PaulyV]

Thanks e301988325i - I need to get a multimeter to see what is coming through to the solenoid...all I have done so far is bridge the 2 pins of the diagnostic cap and note that nothing is turning over - I simply get that clicking and no turning over over the starter.

My puzzlement at the moment is if this could be an immobilizer issue rather than anything else - does the test i just did sidestep that?

Thanks

Pauly

[e301988325i]

I wouldn't go to the effort and expense of changing it until you've ruled out the immobiliser with a multi meter. I don't beleive that test will have by passed the immobiliser, kind of misses the point.

[Brianmoooore]

You don't need a multimeter! In the hands of someone who doesn't know its limitations, it will just confuse things and give misleading results.
All you need is a 12 volt bulb with a couple of pieces of wire attached to it. Most of my car electrical fault finding is done with an E30 front indicator repeater.

[murran]

the diagnostic pin thing/test should bypass any imobiliser fitted on the starter side.