At My Wits End With 1987 E30 325I(Advice Required)

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OppositeLock
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Post Tue Oct 27, 2009 1:26 pm

Driving the car from cold it runs just ok there is a bit of a miss when you first hit the throttle but when you floor it, it will pick up(this is constant even when warm it doesn't seem to idle right) but after half an hour driving her she just cuts out starts spluttering and will only start on a bump. But if you leave her for quaple off hours she will start on the starter no bother, i replaced the plugs and leads +crank sensor. i have had a problem with her from the day i bought it. i live in co down n.ireland and there is nobody in my area that has relly worked on these cars. :(

any advice or options will be great.
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Post Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:01 pm

Idle control valve?
Expensive to buy but a clean out with carb cleaner may be worth a try.
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OppositeLock
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Post Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:39 pm

sorry might sound a bit stupid but were is the idle control valve?
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gooner1
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Post Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:41 pm

Georgen has one for sale, in the for sale section right now iirc.
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E30Gheko
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Post Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:43 pm

Have you checked the fuel filter?
Dan320is
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Post Tue Oct 27, 2009 6:07 pm

Check the:

- Fuel filter, as mentioned above.
- Brown & blue temp' sensors.
- AFM & intake pipe.
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Post Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:53 pm

Symptoms sound fairly similar to a problem I had with mine. Do you need to ride the throttle when at junctions etc to keep it from stalling?

After replacing a load of parts I took it to a local garage who simply tuned it using a co2 tester and now runs fine.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Wed Oct 28, 2009 12:46 am

Measure the blue temp sensor's resistance to earth AT THE ECU PLUG, both stone cold and at working temperature.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Wed Oct 28, 2009 12:49 am

You could also try posting in the correct forum!
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OppositeLock
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Post Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:46 am

SteSE wrote:Symptoms sound fairly similar to a problem I had with mine. Do you need to ride the throttle when at junctions etc to keep it from stalling?

After replacing a load of parts I took it to a local garage who simply tuned it using a co2 tester and now runs fine.

yea you have to keep it reving at junctions i think im just going to leave it to my nearest bmw garage as i am totally clueless with this sort of thing :D
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OppositeLock
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Post Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:47 am

Brianmoooore wrote:You could also try posting in the correct forum!
well it is an e30 topic of conversation so i dont see what your problem is.
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OppositeLock
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Post Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:49 am

E30Gheko wrote:Have you checked the fuel filter?
the only fuel filter is at the back of the car i think?? i dont know exactly were it is located.
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OppositeLock
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Post Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:51 am

Dan320is wrote:Check the:

- Fuel filter, as mentioned above.
- Brown & blue temp' sensors.
- AFM & intake pipe.
i know the brown sensor is for the temp gauge in the car, my gauge doesnt work at all either does my rev counter, ill check the blue sensor tonight to see how it is.
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Post Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:11 am

OppositeLock wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote:You could also try posting in the correct forum!
well it is an e30 topic of conversation so i dont see what your problem is.
It's a technical question though, an ask for help. Some of the most experienced users on the forum only use this section so your quetion may have missed if the thread remained in the general discussion. Brian was doing you a favour.
OppositeLock wrote:
SteSE wrote:Symptoms sound fairly similar to a problem I had with mine. Do you need to ride the throttle when at junctions etc to keep it from stalling?

After replacing a load of parts I took it to a local garage who simply tuned it using a co2 tester and now runs fine.

yea you have to keep it reving at junctions i think im just going to leave it to my nearest bmw garage as i am totally clueless with this sort of thing :D
Does sound very similar to mine. But also there are more problems than one - dash not working etc. Maybe list out all the issues so the guys know what there dealing with and can help you best they can.
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OppositeLock
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Post Wed Oct 28, 2009 3:09 pm

SteSE wrote:
OppositeLock wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote:You could also try posting in the correct forum!
well it is an e30 topic of conversation so i dont see what your problem is.
It's a technical question though, an ask for help. Some of the most experienced users on the forum only use this section so your quetion may have missed if the thread remained in the general discussion. Brian was doing you a favour.
OppositeLock wrote:
SteSE wrote:Symptoms sound fairly similar to a problem I had with mine. Do you need to ride the throttle when at junctions etc to keep it from stalling?

After replacing a load of parts I took it to a local garage who simply tuned it using a co2 tester and now runs fine.

yea you have to keep it reving at junctions i think im just going to leave it to my nearest bmw garage as i am totally clueless with this sort of thing :D
Does sound very similar to mine. But also there are more problems than one - dash not working etc. Maybe list out all the issues so the guys know what there dealing with and can help you best they can.
sorry if i seemed nasty thought he was having A go at me !! yea im going list all the problems and leave it to them i might only make it worse but im going to buy A a couple of parts of Georgen he has a few parts that mighht help her just means i dont have to splash out on any new parts :D thanks for the advice
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OppositeLock
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Post Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:04 am

willnz wrote:
OppositeLock wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote:You could also try posting in the correct forum!
well it is an e30 topic of conversation so i dont see what your problem is.
As SteSE said, there are many of us that dont go into the other forums. You have been here for 5 mins and already getting into peoples faces. Take a step back, take a deep breath and realise that nobody will help you if you dont show some respect! Brian is by far the most experienced person on this forum and knows what he is talking about!

As Brian said, check your blue (ecu) temp sender at the ecu plug. It should give readings of >4000 ohms when cold and between 300-360 ohms when at operating temp.
Also check your fuses for the cluster problem.
Have a look at the C101 plug next to the fuse box for possible corrosion/bad connections.
what setting on the multi meter should i use to test this plug? is it the one beside the brown one near the injector rails ? cheers for the info
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Brianmoooore
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Post Thu Oct 29, 2009 7:18 pm

willnz wrote: probably at C101 plug.
Doesn't go through the C101 on my engines, will! It does, however, go through the C192.