for the s50 experts

[yetti24]

got a small annoying problem , my car runs fine ticks over normally , but after being driven a bit the revs drop from the normal 700 rpm to 500 rpm , and is a bit lumpy , it seems to be an intermitent fault and sometimes doesnt do it after the car is switched off for a short while , then started again , i thought it was the maf playing up but i have tried another and it is the same , i think it could be electrical as i also get a ticking from the main ecu under acceleration , anyone had any similar problems or have any ideas of what to try , any help is welcome

[Ant]

B30 or 32 dude ??

are you using the stock 02 sensor(s) ?

[yetti24]

sorry b30 , i am using the stock 02 sensors , i posted the build (another s50 the easy way round )

[Jhonno]

Speedo working? Have you had the fault codes read?

[yetti24]

hi the speedos fine , have not had the fault codes read , have to find somewhere local to get it done as i dont have the equipment , anyone recommend anyone round the southampton area ? there are 2 specialists that i know of but they are both no good from my experiences

[yetti24]

had the fault codes read no faults showing, recently the car is fine when i first drive it but when it is driven at a steady speed over distance the fault comes back, could it be a the maf or a lambda sensor any ideas anyone ?

[penton08]

i had the same type of fault with mine, any time i went over 70mph it would run like a sack of sh#t until i reset the ecu, ie...disconect the battery! it would then be fine again until i went over 70mph. i had the fault codes read a few times and it never threw out any fault codes it turned out to be speed signal related, even though the speedo worked. i swaped the clocks and have never had a problem since. also relating to this fault when ever you slow to a stop, once stoped the s50 should hold it revs at about 1000 rpm for a few seconds and then settle to about 670 rpm. does yours do this?

[yetti24]

yeah my problem is exactly the same penton08 i have changed the clocks as the last set i had were dodgy, i have heard of speed signal problems before can anyone help ? sounds like i might have not connected a wire somewhere thanks

[penton08]

are your clocks the e30 m3 ones? try a set of standard e30 facelift clocks before you try anything else!!

[yetti24]

yeah i am using e30 m3 clocks and the previous ones i had were the same, i have a set of facelift 325i clocks i will give them a try and post what happens thanks

[e21Jason]

Is the speed sensor for the s50 ecu wired up

Jason

[yetti24]

i might have missed this one can anyone tell me more about about this do i have to connect a wire coming from the s50 ecu to the cluster ? thanks

[e21Jason]

This might help

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=79246

My mate had this kind of issue puting a s50 in a e36 touring

Jason

[yetti24]

thanks for the link can anyone tell the colour of the wires that need to be connected from the cluster and ecu thanks

[penton08]

you wont need any extra gismo's or extra wiring it is all done inside the clocks! swap your clocks mate, im fairly sure this will solve your problem. dont ask me how or why because i dont know

[yetti24]

tried the set of facelift clocks i had, took the car for a good long run was fine until i took it along the motorway for a distance then the problem kicked in again (runnning lumpy on tick over ) can anyone tell which wire from the s50 ecu needs to be connected to the cluster and where on the cluster cause i can only guess that i missed connecting the speed sensor wire when i did the conversion, help please i really want to get this sorted thanks

[yetti24]

anyone help ?

[weed1]

anyone help ?

USA based.
swapped in the S52US (basically an M52) into an E30 M3.
When ordering a chip, we typically specify what speed idle we want, cams, tubular extractors, fuel octane, from the chip vendor.

What year is your E30?
In late US market cars The road speed signal from the diff to the cluster, then from cluster to ECU is Black with a white tracer but has also been indicated as Blue/Yellow tracer on some USA ETMs.
If your car is older than mid 1987, you may find that the signal wire goes to the ECU via a connector behind the glovebox.
If you peel the boot off of the chassis C101 connector, look for the Bk/W or possibly Bl/Y wire. If absent, it may be behind the glovebox or a different colour altogether.
The road speed signal wire from the ECU should also be Bk/w to your now missing X20 plug(now C101)

You'll need to verify this info, even if you find a non connected Blk/wh and/or Bl/Y wire as colour codes may vary between Euro and USA market cars.

m

[yetti24]

solved the problem many thanks to ian again, i did not have the road speed signal wired up, had to run a wire from the green plug at the back of the cluster (cruise control output) to the blk/wht wire from the ecu to tell the ecu what speed the car is travelling at

[RoadHazard]

So, this needs to be done when the M3 clock is used?

[weed1]

So, this needs to be done when the M3 clock is used?

It needs to be done period, or the car won't run properly.
The Tacho signal will need to be converted to accommodate the six pot signal for the tach to read close to correct.

m

[yetti24]

or no mine runs fine now with what i have done

[virdi325i]

Hi Can anyone tell me to which part of the green plug the wire should be connected too.