Sponge Options

The place to pick up tips on bringing that showroom shine back to your E30.

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StuBeeDoo
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:17 am

I don't want to scratch my lovely new paint if I can help it.
What do you detailing bufties recommend for....
a) working the shampoo over the car
b) getting the water off after rinsing
..... that's least likely to cover the car in minute scratches?
TIA
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d6dph
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:34 am

Don't use a sponge, Simples.

A lambswool wash mitt/pad is the best option. Meguiars soft wash gel is a good shampoo, Sonus drying towels are great too.

To help drying, flow water from end of an open hose rather than spraying water on. This allows the water tension to drag more off meaning you have less to remove with a drying towel. Always pat dry rather than wiping too.

Check out www.cleanyourcar.co.uk very best service I have had online.
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march109
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:05 am

www.detailingworld.co.uk if you want to get proper anal, but dave is spot on above. Don't use a bloody spounge and buy 2 buckets, or atleast get used to people gasping when you tell them you only have one!
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:08 am

www.detailingworld.co.uk

Yeah great forum that,

I am one of the very anal people march109 is talking about (red faced)

I will put up a thread on the full detail I will do to my E30 very soon

Might help people out a bit.. :)
d6dph
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:09 am

I used to use DW loads but had to stop as it was getting silly expensive :D
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sam325is
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 2:01 pm

http://www.pro-detailing.co.uk/index.php?p=46&c=3

Use this. 100% certain it will not scratch your car. one side is for body work, the other is for glass.
StuBeeDoo
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:44 pm

march109 wrote:and buy 2 buckets

.... And the point of that is.......??
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d6dph
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:49 pm

One is for clean wash solution, the other is to was your mitt in before dipping back into the wash solution.

Makes it easier to get a good finish too as you are not washing the car with contaminated solution.

I did do a wash guide. Let me see if I can find it.
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d6dph
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:53 pm

Bingo:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ning_guide

Shows just why you should use two buckets.
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StuBeeDoo
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:59 pm

Cheers for ^^that^^ Dave. :thumb:

I'm away to order a mitt and a towel. I'll pick up another bucket tomorrow.
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StuBeeDoo
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:02 pm

BTW Dave. I noticed in your Wiki you say to start from the top and work down. This is the way I've always done it for the last 45 years, but I've read plenty of threads on here (and other forums) where supposed experts say you should wash from the bottom up. :?
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d6dph
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:04 pm

Well those "experts" need a reality check.

Why would you start with the most contaminated area first, Absolute tosh mate. Stick to the way you know works.
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:16 pm

d6dph wrote:Why would you start with the most contaminated area first, Absolute tosh mate.
That was my take on it TBH. Couldn't understand why the "21st century way" was what I always considered to be the wrong way. I asked the question several times and no-one could give me a definitive answer as to why I should change the habit of a lifetime.
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baur320
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:42 pm

Are you happy with the work Stuart?
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:44 pm

baur320 wrote:Are you happy with the work Stuart?
Haven't seen it properly yet Mick, only under flourescent light.
I'll no doubt be commenting when I get it home at the weekend.
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baur320
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Post Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:55 pm

Make sure you get some pics posted!
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Post Tue Sep 22, 2009 1:22 pm

As mentioned above, mitt is better than sponge.

I use a Meguiar's drying towel - it's pretty decent and seems to work better than a chamois.
StuBeeDoo wrote:
d6dph wrote:Why would you start with the most contaminated area first, Absolute tosh mate.
That was my take on it TBH. Couldn't understand why the "21st century way" was what I always considered to be the wrong way. I asked the question several times and no-one could give me a definitive answer as to why I should change the habit of a lifetime.
Totally agree, always started at the top and worked down.

In fact I have a sponge (boo hiss) that I use for the lower bumper and sills rather than the mitt.
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Post Tue Sep 22, 2009 3:36 pm

StuBeeDoo wrote:
d6dph wrote:Why would you start with the most contaminated area first, Absolute tosh mate.
That was my take on it TBH. Couldn't understand why the "21st century way" was what I always considered to be the wrong way. I asked the question several times and no-one could give me a definitive answer as to why I should change the habit of a lifetime.
As a kid I was taught to wash from the bottom up, that was on a "general purpose" car before the days of hose pipe bans when using a hose with a "shampooing brush" on the end... the sort of thing where you put a shampoo tablet inside the brush head and it bubbles out through the bristles. I'm not even sure if you can still buy them.
Reasons in this case for washing from the bottom up:
Nothing to get contaminated as there's no bucket you're putting anything back into, all the grot is just going on the floor;
If you start from the top then the water runs over areas you haven't done (constant stream of water coming out the hose and running down the car) and makes it really hard to see patches that have been missed (generally the dirt only comes off if you actually pass the brush head over it and you only get to see the missed patches at the end). Starting from the bottom you can gradually work up onto dry patches so making sure you got everything... the flow of water is generally sufficient to make sure that the grot gets washed properly down onto the floor and doesn't just dry out in a streak on the bit you've just washed.

NB... I'm not expecting any of you to change the way you wash and I expect the brush head put lots of scratches on the paintwork but just giving you an insight into how the lazy and less dilligent part of the population get by.
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Post Fri Sep 25, 2009 10:42 am

d6dph wrote:To help drying, flow water from end of an open hose rather than spraying water on. This allows the water tension to drag more off meaning you have less to remove with a drying towel. Always pat dry rather than wiping too.
Tried this today and can't believe how much easier it was - I've wasted a lot of time in the last 30 years spraying water on the car :cry:

Great tip :thumb:
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toby
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Post Wed Sep 30, 2009 3:49 pm

Regarding the drying towel, I've been using it dry (not wetting it first like a chamois) and drying the car. It works really well but is this frowned upon?
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johnt0709
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Post Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:52 pm

Just read the article my god ive been treating my car so badly for years - It does all make sense just never given it much thought - glad I checked just had a full respray and still to wash - Thanks Guys. 8O
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Post Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:46 pm

toby wrote:Regarding the drying towel, I've been using it dry (not wetting it first like a chamois) and drying the car. It works really well but is this frowned upon?
Well, it is OK.. But you should really use a product such as "Meguires Last touch" or "DoDo Time to dry" as this will help lube the surface and ruduce and accidental rubbing marring.

Also using last touch mixed with water sprayed over the car first will make drying a doddle as it will bead the water off the surface.
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Post Wed Oct 14, 2009 10:02 am

Celit bang and brillo pads FTW ! :D
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Post Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:41 pm

I think that this should be a sticky. Proper useful links for noobees especially this one

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... php?t=4637
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Post Sun Oct 18, 2009 12:22 am

pacerpete wrote:Celit bang and brillo pads FTW ! :D
and baby oil to shine the dash and vasaline on the black trim :D