brake pipe decided to burst

Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:49 am

hoofed on the brakes the other day and the brake pipe decided to go pop.

going to get some more pipe tommorrow and hopefully find a clinching tool for the ends, my question is this

what size is the pipe? what size ends do i need?

Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:56 am

just buy the complete flexi hose from GSF or a local motor factor, about £10 for the hose with the correct fittings already attached. Or do you mean one of the hard lines went pop?

Fri Sep 18, 2009 2:01 am

hard lines

Fri Sep 18, 2009 2:46 pm

you can also get them from BMW so they're sure to fit. they come straight so will need bending though

Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:07 pm

ones from bmw sond easy, sure to be expensive though! i found a flaring tool so not an issue to make them up, just wondering on the size of pipe and approx length,

Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:12 pm

Most motorfactors should be able to make them up for you. I know we always ask to see the original to make sure the fittings are right.

Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:24 pm

I'd recommend kunifer pipe and flaring it yourself. I bought brand new pipe from BMW and while it wasn't very expensive, it was bloody difficult to bend. It ended up in the bin.

The pipe size you want is 3/16" with M10 male ends. It comes in a coil of 25ft usually and that is enough for the whole car. You can get hold of a reasonable flaring tool on ebay or from MachineMart for £20-30.

Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:43 pm

thanks everyone, on the case tommorrow

Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:16 pm

thesaint wrote:ones from bmw sond easy, sure to be expensive though! i found a flaring tool so not an issue to make them up, just wondering on the size of pipe and approx length,

not that expensive. iirc the lengths on the rear trailing arms cost me about £7 each or something and being anal, they're the right colour! also, unlike motor factor ones, the end fittings should resist rust and rounding off a lot better (no offence intended dave

)

Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:18 pm

No offence taken you ginger turd. I always use genuine and I work in a motorfactors, Something quite satisfying about using a genuine part.

Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:31 pm

d6dph wrote:No offence taken you ginger turd. I always use genuine and I work in a motorfactors, Something quite satisfying about using a genuine part.

in that case i'll let you off. maybe i'll get some from you in future, in fact i'll be nice and bring a step ladder so you can see over the counter to serve me

not even at the pod and the banter has started... this is going to be messy!

Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:35 pm

in all my years f4nnying about with cars ive never had or seen a hard brake line burst.

Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:40 pm

i've seen steel lines on a capri welded up

bursting can surely only be from corrosion in an area that the MOT bloke can's see. 205's do this over the tank, i guess a E30 could do this too as there's an area you can't see. not a real rust trap though

Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:16 pm

its happened to me near the fuel filter area. but i did know it was shot... time to hijack. how many pipes run to from the front to the back? is it:
1 brake pipe
1 fuel feed
1 fuel return
and one other larger diameter pipe which i cant find on real oem? anybody know the part number for the larger pipe?

Sat Sep 19, 2009 12:10 am

fuzzy wrote:in all my years f4nnying about with cars ive never had or seen a hard brake line burst.

makes you jump a bit, on a country lane going like quick, so was the bloke coming the other way, up the bank and round!

Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:07 am

only one pipe to change then? simple job then!"

Mon Sep 21, 2009 4:49 pm

Which pipe burst?

Mon Sep 21, 2009 7:57 pm

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=34&fg=15

number 10

Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:33 pm

'Only one pipe to change' but it is the front to rear one, good luck with that. It was a straight forward enough job when I changed the pipes on my car but the fuel tank and rear suspension were removed.

Somebody who has changed that pipe without removing the rear beam will perhaps comment and tell you it is quite a fiddly job...

Where about did the pipe burst? If you're making up your own pipe it may be possible to fit a repair section.

Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:40 pm

by the rear sub frame mount, have got a genuine bmw one as it was only £11, bah not looking forward to this, such hassle

Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:38 pm

just done all of mine this weekend on the drive with the beam in, its not easy but its not that hard.

best bet is to do all of the pipes at once, get the 4 flexis for the rear and 25ft of kunifer then just chop the old ones out. you can just get a 11mm and 14mm spanner in to pinch the pipes up around the beam.

Tue Sep 22, 2009 8:47 pm

gareth wrote:i've seen steel lines on a capri welded up

That's just...words fail me.
Someone has used incredible skill (welding a 3/16" steel pipe = hard) to do something unbelievably ill-advised, when a much cheaper, easier and better solution (replace the sodding pipe) exists.
Uberbodging, that

Tue Sep 22, 2009 8:59 pm

handpaper wrote:
gareth wrote:i've seen steel lines on a capri welded up
That's just...words fail me.
Someone has used incredible skill (welding a 3/16" steel pipe = hard) to do something unbelievably ill-advised, when a much cheaper, easier and better solution (replace the sodding pipe) exists.
Uberbodging, that

i was impressed! they held too!
needless to say, after my mate bought said capri, they were replaced ASAP!