Coolant change problem (update Major Problem!!)

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Blitz
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 6:23 pm

I followed the wiki guide and removed all the holes around the rad and flushed them clean with water. I reconnect all the hoses and pour water into to the expansion tank.

The problem is it only takes 1.5L to fill up. What have I done wrong?

M40B16
Last edited by Blitz on Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
stonesie
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:03 pm

Check all your bleed points to be sure theres no air in it, it's likley the block and heater were still full so it might not take much to just fill the rad.
Blitz
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:05 pm

Where are the bleed points?
stonesie
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:17 pm

IIRC the M40 uses a combined rad/header tank so there is a bleed point on top of the rad next to the filler, coppied from the wiki....


1.Loosen off and remove the cap on the header tank (at LHS of radiator)

Check the tank and cap for ”˜mayo’ which is a sign that oil is mixing with the coolant (not good). Move the heater temp control to fully cold to prevent air locks in the heater matrix

Also check that the bottom is yellow and rated at 140.If not go to the dealer and get one. (they were subject to a recall years ago as the originals weren’t up to the job)

2.Undo bottom hose from radiator at RHS of the car, let coolant drain (catch it in a bucket and dispose of properly)

3.Undo the 3x 10mm bolts on the thermostat housing (at the front of the engine, in front of the distributor cap) (may need to remove small fuel hose to access one of the top bolts)

4.Remove thermostat, and check its ok (should be closed if cold) If in doubt an new one is £9.99 from GSF/ECP. Bolt housing back together.

5.Insert hose into header tank (at LHS of Radiator) and flush system until water is running clear.

6.Remove top hose (LHS) from radiator and flush through with hose until clear

7.Replace the thermostat, and reattach all hoses

8.Pour the coolant into the header tank (at LHS of radiator) SLOWLY and give it time to settle. (should take about 4.5l to get to cold level marker)

9.Set the heaters to full (HOT and no. 4 fan setting, open all vents) and start car.

10.Let car idle for 5-10mins keeping an eye on the temp gauge

11.Open the bleed screw (next to the expansion tank cap) WATCH OUT FOR THE COOLANT SPRAYING!!!! (use a cloth to cover it!)

12.Repeat bleeding until all air is out and only water comes out when bleed screw is opened. Top up if required.
Blitz
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:27 pm

This is the problem

"8.Pour the coolant into the header tank (at LHS of radiator) SLOWLY and give it time to settle. (should take about 4.5l to get to cold level marker)"

When I do it takes only 1L to reach that level, this is why I think there is still coolant somewhere.
stonesie
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:40 pm

The only thing i can think of is to take all the coolant pipes back off the front of the engine and thermostat out, drain the lot.

I cant tell you if there is a block drain plug on these though like there is on the 6 pots.
beemerbird
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:42 pm

It sometimes helps if you squeeze the pipes when you're putting the liquid in, to expel air out and allow more fluid in. This helps if you have an airblock somewhere, too.
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
Blitz
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:50 pm

Thanks. Will try it tomorrow as it too windy today.
beemerbird
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:55 pm

Blitz wrote:Thanks. Will try it tomorrow as it too windy today.
Hmmmm. Some new bumps on the head then? Bonnet struts are great, but not when its windy :D
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
Blitz
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 8:00 pm

beemerbird wrote:
Blitz wrote:Thanks. Will try it tomorrow as it too windy today.
Hmmmm. Some new bumps on the head then? Bonnet struts are great, but not when its windy :D
Yeah
stonesie
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 8:06 pm

I have a length of broom handle for that..... and a perminant lump on the back of the head :mad:
Blitz
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Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:23 pm

Right I just filled it up with coolant and water. Ran it on idle for 10 minutes no problem. Went out to the shops and opened the bonnet and smoke was coming out of the engine. Temp gauge was normal.

I did do an oil change prior and might of spilled some oil.

What is it? :(
beemerbird
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Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:25 pm

It could be the spilt oil burning off........
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
Blitz
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Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:39 pm

Thats what thought. I hope it is.

Also I got some plug from ECP and they gave me these. Are they the right ones?

Image
Blitz
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Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:43 pm

I think this is the problem as smoke was coming out round and I could see coolant leaking. I don't think I've mounted back on right.

No.9
http://static.bmwfans.info/images/epc/MTY5ODlfcA==.png
Blitz
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Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:04 pm

[youtube][/youtube]

Image
m_jermyn
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Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:39 pm

Whats the temp gauge read? Is it cold, normal or hot?

When the car has been running for a while feel the rad hoses, Are they hot or cold? You need to feel both of them.

Report back.

Mike
Blitz
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Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:45 am

Well it smokes when the car has warmed and it creeps towards red, but I haven't waited till it reaches red. I think I remember the rad hoses being warm.
Blitz
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Fri Sep 18, 2009 6:52 pm

I bought some gasket sealant maker and applied it on the flange. Connected everything back up and there is no smoke. I can still hear a hissing sound from the flange but I have not given much time for the sealant to harden.

I got santapod on sunday.
Blitz
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:42 am

Its overheating now as the temp gauge goes to the red, and your can hear the coolant burbling sound. Also the heater wont blow hot.
Ollie_bwoii
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:49 am

S**t thats not good Blitz! :( Guess your not going to make it to Santa Pod? Or are you allowed use of one of the other E30's?
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6potpower
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:49 am

do what i did run the car with bleed screw out get a mate to revv it to like 2k and keep filling the rad up while hes revving and waters coming out and it should fill up properly as this has happend to my old g reg 318i and it was jsut weird
Blitz
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:55 am

Thanks will try that tomorrow.
m_jermyn
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 2:34 am

The way I did it was put the car on a hill so the radiator is higher then the engine. Turn the heater on and let it run, every minute or so I would do the bleed screw. This way the air comes to the top.

You still havnt told us if the radiator hoses are hot or cold!!!!!! This is important as you might have a thermostat that is not working and blocking coolent from circulating through the radiator... When they are hot you will be able to place your hand around it but not for too long.

Mike
Blitz
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:40 am

Yes they the hoses are very hot. Also the car is parked on a ground that is not level.
m_jermyn
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 4:39 am

Is your viscous fan working?
Blitz
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 4:57 am

Yes. The coupling needs changing though. But all these problems started once I changed the coolant.
m_jermyn
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 9:46 am

hmmm not sure then buddy. Is the heater working? Blowing hot air that is.
Blitz
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 10:01 am

Heater wont blow hot
Blitz
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 10:43 am

Alright I parked it facing upwards on a hill. Opened the cap and bleed screes and rev the engine to around 2k and kept pouring fluid which it seemed to take. Once only fluid came out of the bleed screw I went to the shops. Opened the bleed screw again to get rid of any air bubbles. So I've driven it for around 20 mins and the whole time the temp gauge reads just under half way.

So thanks guys the problem after I sorted out the flange was probably an air lock. The system is been bled properly now.
m_jermyn
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:20 am

Good stuff mate pleased to hear you have it sorted.......... The power of the E30zone
beemerbird
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:22 am

Excellent news, Blitz! See you at the Pod, mate :D
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
Blitz
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:59 am

Thanks. I would have to stop a couple of times to monitor the coolant level. Now I have to clay, polish and wax.
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