smoothed out aeria

Post Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:57 pm

How much would it be to get it smoothed out?
Can it be done DIY?
What has to be done

Post Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:15 pm

what aeria ?

Post Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:19 pm

You gonna have to wait about 8 days for a reply from Armanib, cougar....he's in the slammer!

Post Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:55 pm

sihooker wrote:You gonna have to wait about 8 days for a reply from Armanib, cougar....he's in the slammer!

why did he get caught smoothing some ones aeria

Post Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:17 pm

I did mine DIY and was quite pleased with the result. Its a bit of a bodge but you secure some thick card or similar under the hole (obv after removing the aerial and boot lining) and fill over it. It maight take a few applications to achieve a flat surface but then you can just rub it down and repaint.

Post Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:44 pm

A18RPF wrote:I did mine DIY and was quite pleased with the result. Its a bit of a bodge but you secure some thick card or similar under the hole (obv after removing the aerial and boot lining) and fill over it. It maight take a few applications to achieve a flat surface but then you can just rub it down and repaint.

Bodgy bodgy lol

THere is a art to it and its done by solder, clean the underside of paint, cut out another bit of metal to fill the hole and make it larger, you then must tin that metal (like fluxing) also tin the qtr panel. then solder the two together and fill the hole with solder.

This method gives minimal heat reducing warping. and no grinding just filling with a body file.

You need a magnet or some tape to hold the two together

Mike

Post Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:31 pm

Both methods sound equally bodgy to me lol

Post Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:55 pm

A18RPF wrote:Both methods sound equally bodgy to me lol

Well elaborate then on a better way to do it? Clearly you have done this before if you are commenting on it!!

And if you think my method is bodgy maybe you would like to share your reasons. Tell me whats are the pros and cons of my method Vs the pros and cons of your method..

Eagerly awaiting your reply

Mike

Post Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:03 pm

All I'm saying is that the solder method sounds quite involved to get an end result that would require similar amounts of bodywork as would using filler. Not that I am dissing your soldering style but soldering two pieces of steel together isnt the strongest jointing method
And yes I have done it before on two diffrent cars, and have been very pleased with the results. Obviously if was to pay a bodyshop to do the work I would expect something more substantial but as seen as I am doing the work myself on a limited budget I have to make do with what I've got.
I would be interested to see the results of the solder method though if you have done it
Joe

Post Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:11 pm

A18RPF wrote:.... but as seen as I am doing the work myself on a limited budget I have to make do with what I've got.

That,right there,is the very essence of bodgery!

The best way has to be metal to metal,with filler only used to correct imperfections before respraying.

Post Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:24 pm

best way is weld a plate from underneath and use as less filler as possible

Post Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:28 pm

Metal to metal is always best, for sure, but I'd be interested to see whether filling a quite deep hole with solder would give a decent enough surface finish.
True though, the cardboard method is a definate bodge, but I thought of it when smoothing an areial in the front wing of a polo, where there was no access to the underside of the panel. This necessitated the use of somthing that could be folded and stuffed through the hole!

Post Thu Sep 24, 2009 1:09 pm

Yes I have done it before, infact its what I have done for a living for many years. Im a panel beater and spray painter by trade and now I have my own Paintless dent repair business... I do a few restorations and customs here and there. Solder is very similar in fact its basically identical to lead wiping. Im sure you have heard of this...

Lead wiping is kind of a lost art as most people find it easier to use bog or nicky... Nicky is good as its flexible but it can obsorb water if your welds are not 100%..... This makes lead wiping or soldering perfect for this..... Even though its not very flexible it is 100% water proof and it can never ever rust.... Flexibility in the area of the arial is not a issue either as the panel does not flex there at all.

Now i know most people will think welding a piece of metal in the hole is the best option but, welding gives alot of heat and distortion is a big issue, also welding will increase the chance of rust in this area..

Hence why i said solder the two.... or lead wipe it....

Mike

Post Fri Sep 25, 2009 2:00 pm

cool... here's me thinking solder is only for circuitboards
Never heard of lead wiping but as you can probably tell from my use of cardboard and tape I'm not in the bodywork business