I've got next week off work mate, we could go for a spin in mine if you like and if you're around, it's going quite well at the moment!
E30 with SR20DET
Moderator: martauto
I really like the look of this...
I've got next week off work mate, we could go for a spin in mine if you like and if you're around, it's going quite well at the moment!
I've got next week off work mate, we could go for a spin in mine if you like and if you're around, it's going quite well at the moment!
Jeremy Clarkson wrote:...but it drives the front wheels. Theee wrooong wheels!
da4x4turbo wrote:I raced a vivaro on the motorway once in a 318is.... and lost!!!
Cheers mate, I'd love to see your chariot in action, even if it does scare the crap out of me.DRIFTBOY wrote:I really like the look of this...
I've got next week off work mate, we could go for a spin in mine if you like and if you're around, it's going quite well at the moment!
Thanks Geoff, the SR20 really does look at home in the E30 engine bay. I need to set about cluttering up the engine bay with various bits and pieces now!GeoffBob wrote:Nice to see her with the engine in Theo, great fit. Looking really good!!
The missus has got the week off too, but I'll drop you a pm or a text when I know when I can pop round then.
It's not that scary!
Speak sooon.
It's not that scary!
Speak sooon.
Jeremy Clarkson wrote:...but it drives the front wheels. Theee wrooong wheels!
da4x4turbo wrote:I raced a vivaro on the motorway once in a 318is.... and lost!!!
Today I fitted custom clutch hose which I had made up by Rally design, fitted it to the car, bled it and...............................it's outrageously stiff. I swapped the .750 clutch M/C for a .625 cylinder from the front brakes and it's better, but still rather stiff. I suppose this is a result of using a heavy duty clutch. My little chicken leg will have to get more muscular!
What size is your slave cylinder Theo and have you adjusted your pedal stop so that you aren't trying to push the release bearing through the clutch! With a large M/C and small S/C you'd be surprised at how little pedal movement it takes to correctly depress the clutch, but under these conditions the pedal will of course be very stiff. After getting used to mine it always feels like the clutch pedal has failed when I climb back into my daily driver where the pedal is soft and long.Theo325 wrote:Today I fitted custom clutch hose which I had made up by Rally design, fitted it to the car, bled it and...............................it's outrageously stiff. I swapped the .750 clutch M/C for a .625 cylinder from the front brakes and it's better, but still rather stiff. I suppose this is a result of using a heavy duty clutch. My little chicken leg will have to get more muscular!
All depends how you like them I guess, soft and long or short and hard. Wait a minute, didn't mean that like it sounds.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
The slave cylinder is 3/4". I've not yet sorted out a pedal stop, instead I just turned the engine over and gradually depressed the clutch to until I found the point at which the clutch disengaged.
The stroke isn't overly long, but it's stiffer than any other clutch I've tried! I'll no doubt get used to it though.
The stroke isn't overly long, but it's stiffer than any other clutch I've tried! I'll no doubt get used to it though.
I'd expect it to be short, not long.Theo325 wrote:The slave cylinder is 3/4". I've not yet sorted out a pedal stop, instead I just turned the engine over and gradually depressed the clutch to until I found the point at which the clutch disengaged.
The stroke isn't overly long, but it's stiffer than any other clutch I've tried! I'll no doubt get used to it though.
I'm using a 7/10" M/C with a 13/16" S/C on my ricer, also with a 6.25:1 clutch pedal, from which I get about 2" of pedal travel between full in and full out. Of course I'm not exactly comparing apples with apples since I don't know the ratio of your clutch fork (which obviously has a similar effect to the pedal), but I would expect them to be similar. Thus, since you have a smaller S/C and larger M/C than me, I would expect your clutch pedal to be harder and shorter than mine (and mines not exactly soft or long). In the absence of a smaller M/C or larger S/C I'd suggest you just get used to it, which I am sure you will with time. Either that or use both feet to push the clutch
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
Hmm, I think Nismo do a larger slave cylinder, so that could be an option should it prove t be too stiff. Two footed clutching sounds fun, just need a stick with shoe on the end of it so I can still heel & toe!In the absence of a smaller M/C or larger S/C I'd suggest you just get used to it, which I am sure you will with time. Either that or use both feet to push the clutch
Cheers, it's really taking shape now, I'll try and take some more photos to show progress.This is looking great theo
Mounted the remote oil filter under the front offside, allowing for easy access to filter for servicing etc.
The braided hoses that came with the oil cooler and filter relocation kit were too long, so i shortened them. They now fit very well, allowing the smilies to be refitted without cutting them up or doing a single headlamp conversion.
In the photo above, you can see we trimmed back the lip on the front chassis member for the oil lines to come out without fouling. This i welded up all before paint so it looks mint and therefore 'motorsport' the new mantra for this former track slag!
Fuse box now mounted inside the car, behind glove box.
Rear end of the car looks near finished. Rear screen fitted due to Theos perseverance and hard work! Hartge spoiler looks very cool.
Interior filling up. Standard loom in, pedal box refitted (again) with quality clutch foot rest. Rear brake lines done with bias adjuster fitted.
The braided hoses that came with the oil cooler and filter relocation kit were too long, so i shortened them. They now fit very well, allowing the smilies to be refitted without cutting them up or doing a single headlamp conversion.
In the photo above, you can see we trimmed back the lip on the front chassis member for the oil lines to come out without fouling. This i welded up all before paint so it looks mint and therefore 'motorsport' the new mantra for this former track slag!
Fuse box now mounted inside the car, behind glove box.
Rear end of the car looks near finished. Rear screen fitted due to Theos perseverance and hard work! Hartge spoiler looks very cool.
Interior filling up. Standard loom in, pedal box refitted (again) with quality clutch foot rest. Rear brake lines done with bias adjuster fitted.
Don't they all?! Cracking project Theo.Theo325 wrote:The car always looks much nicer when I'm not lying under it swearing at some uncooperative part of it.
I'm thinking of running new brake lines through the car on my S38 Touring as you have done above, do those type lines cost much?
Aisin as well I think? They probably did the clutch and brake cylinders for your Ricer. I know that for my Toyota box I was able to get a range of different sized S/C's made by Aisin. Seems that Toyota standardised on the shape of the S/C on their RWD boxes, just different diameters for different vehicles, which is why it seems there is a range of them available. Unfortunately I can't speak for Nissan but I would expect something similar from them.Theo325 wrote:Hmm, I think Nismo do a larger slave cylinder, so that could be an option should it prove t be too stiff.
BTW Theo, I never give advice to anyone that I am not prepared to take myself. I was so pleasantly surprised by the results of those calculations I did for you (the ones with the proportioning valve) that I am now the proud owner of another M/C and a Tilton proportioning valve. I am anticipating excellent results from this setup.
And of course I look forward to hearing how your brakes perform. I think your biggest surprise will be how quickly your brakes take. Unlike servo assisted brakes your brake torque is a linear function of how hard you push the pedal, right from the moment you start to depress the pedal. You should find that this will give you the confidence to brake harder and later as you literally have better control over a system with a linear response. It seems that we human beings are fundamentally linear beings and non-linear levers and gadgets befuddle us.
Great new pics BTW, the car is looking really fantastic. Please keep them coming.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
Hmm, I had looked at getting a Skyline clutch slave cylinder but it's a totally different design. Some of the old Nissan 4x4s and commercials seem to use the same shape cylinder, so I'll do a bit of research and see if there's something suitable - thanks alot for the suggestion.
Good to hear you've gone for a prop valve, as you can see mine is mounted and ready to proportion! Still not found the graph showing input/output pressures for my valve though, so not certain which setting will cap pressure at 500psi as per your calculations.
What deceleration threshold are you anticipating on your R5 monster?
The braking characteristics you describe sound great, should be a vast improvement over the old linkage/servo assisted clutter.
Good to hear you've gone for a prop valve, as you can see mine is mounted and ready to proportion! Still not found the graph showing input/output pressures for my valve though, so not certain which setting will cap pressure at 500psi as per your calculations.
What deceleration threshold are you anticipating on your R5 monster?
The braking characteristics you describe sound great, should be a vast improvement over the old linkage/servo assisted clutter.
Made bracket for brake switch. Will also use this for pedal return springs. Finished throttle linkage which works beautifully.
Started wiring
This is the ecu loom that the previous owner extended. We needed it shortened. I wore out my solder iron doing the 60 or so soldered joints and it took 4 hours! Also removed immobiliser and some sensors not needed.
Its very handy having my Silvia for wiring and plug identification.
Started wiring
This is the ecu loom that the previous owner extended. We needed it shortened. I wore out my solder iron doing the 60 or so soldered joints and it took 4 hours! Also removed immobiliser and some sensors not needed.
Its very handy having my Silvia for wiring and plug identification.
A small but significant update: IT RUNS!
It started with the first turn of the key, couldn't keep it running long as the radiator hoses aren't plumbed in yet but it idled quite happily for the short time it was running. One problem emerged - the oil feed to the turbo was leaking heavily and due to it's positioning couldn't be accessed in situ. So turbo is now out and I will take the opportunity to replace the locking nuts on the turbo elbow, threadlock the swivels on the braided oil and coolant feeds for the turbo and replace the oil return pipe which I unsucessfully tried to modify.
It started with the first turn of the key, couldn't keep it running long as the radiator hoses aren't plumbed in yet but it idled quite happily for the short time it was running. One problem emerged - the oil feed to the turbo was leaking heavily and due to it's positioning couldn't be accessed in situ. So turbo is now out and I will take the opportunity to replace the locking nuts on the turbo elbow, threadlock the swivels on the braided oil and coolant feeds for the turbo and replace the oil return pipe which I unsucessfully tried to modify.
Last edited by Theo on Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Good news mate.
I must see this thing, as well as the Hartge.
I've been stupidly busy the last few weeks but I'll be in touch soon!
I must see this thing, as well as the Hartge.
I've been stupidly busy the last few weeks but I'll be in touch soon!
Jeremy Clarkson wrote:...but it drives the front wheels. Theee wrooong wheels!
da4x4turbo wrote:I raced a vivaro on the motorway once in a 318is.... and lost!!!
Thanks for the nice comments, the light at the end of the tunnel is well and truly in sight now.
I hope to drive it up and down the lane this weekend allbeit without an exhaust, then I'll cart it off to powerspeed exhausts and get them to make a system for it. Looks like there will be very little ground clearance where the exhaust runs from the downpipe area to behind the gearbox - perhaps twin 2" pipes will be a better idea than a single 2.5" as I'd previously intended.
Other things needed to complete the car:
-High pressure PAS hose
-Brake bias remote adjuster
-Oil catch tank
-Electric pull fan
-Heat shielding for downpipe
-Washer jets
-Alignment and corner weighting
-Other boring stuff
I hope to drive it up and down the lane this weekend allbeit without an exhaust, then I'll cart it off to powerspeed exhausts and get them to make a system for it. Looks like there will be very little ground clearance where the exhaust runs from the downpipe area to behind the gearbox - perhaps twin 2" pipes will be a better idea than a single 2.5" as I'd previously intended.
Other things needed to complete the car:
-High pressure PAS hose
-Brake bias remote adjuster
-Oil catch tank
-Electric pull fan
-Heat shielding for downpipe
-Washer jets
-Alignment and corner weighting
-Other boring stuff
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gareth
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 11009
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: hastings, east sussex
I thought you had an adjustable bias pedal box? or am i getting confooosed?Theo325 wrote:Other things needed to complete the car:......
-Brake bias remote adjuster
If so, are you aware that adjustable bia valves are generally only a pressure limiting valve? so they don't hold the full 'bias' effect the whole way?
it's less of an issue with the weight transfer on heavy braking removing weight from the rear wheels and will allow ease of tweaking, it depends on how fussy you are really.
Sole founder of Fe2O3-12V it's a lifestyle
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
Gareth, See here for the existing discussion around this topic RE Theo's car. 'Full analysis of brake performance 'bout halfway down.gareth wrote:I thought you had an adjustable bias pedal box? or am i getting confooosed?Theo325 wrote:Other things needed to complete the car:......
-Brake bias remote adjuster
If so, are you aware that adjustable bia valves are generally only a pressure limiting valve? so they don't hold the full 'bias' effect the whole way?
it's less of an issue with the weight transfer on heavy braking removing weight from the rear wheels and will allow ease of tweaking, it depends on how fussy you are really.
Another E30 coming towards you?Theo325 wrote:The light at the end of the tunnel is well and truly in sight now.
Easy does it! Your turbo uses your exhaust as a heatsink (to conduct heat away from it).Theo325 wrote:I hope to drive it up and down the lane this weekend allbeit without an exhaust
2 x 2"Theo325 wrote:Looks like there will be very little ground clearance where the exhaust runs from the downpipe area to behind the gearbox - perhaps twin 2" pipes will be a better idea than a single 2.5" as I'd previously intended.
That's what I've got, That extra 1/2" on a 2.5" pipe brought it just too darn close to the ground.Looking good as always Theo, well done
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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gareth
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 11009
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: hastings, east sussex
looks like i missed a little discussion somehow 
Last edited by gareth on Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
Sole founder of Fe2O3-12V it's a lifestyle
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details