Plenummmm

[tomson]

Good skills there oakey!

[march109]

Yeah impressed, though one quick tip make a plater cast mould or do the carbon fibre box from a glass fibre mould of the foam, as once you use acetone to dissolve it it's gone forever, if you have a cast of it or indeed a glass fibre mould you ca. Replicate it later again if needs be.

The glass fibre mould would be better but trickier basically you'd have to lay up on the outside as normal or how you would if directly making the cf part then dissolve the foam, this would leave you with a shell, by cutting it in half and then adding a lip so you can clamp the two sides together you can use pouring foam to remake the foam plug again and again. Obviously this would be a lesser volume to the original by the thickness of the first mould! By laying up twice you'd overcome this but would double the workload.

I hope that was a least semi coherant!

[oakey]

^ I was thinking about that March, cheers. It would give a better finish too. Not sure if I'm up for the extra work though.
It will be totally open on one end and there will be a hole cut on the opposite side so I'm hoping I can remove the mold without destroying it

And I recon I'll be able to get a good finish with alot of layers of lacquer and some wet&dry.

Any ideas about a smaller (shorter) oil cap???

[oakey]

^there's the general shape in CF. I think it came out ok Needs trimming and some lacquering and I think I'll get a very good finish
Now it needs the inlet hole cut and a hole/boss for the air temp sensor. Then I can get on with making the plate for the trumpetsss

The underneath is much more messy and amateur but it won't be seen so that's all good

[Turbo-Brown]

That's looking sweet Dave

How many layers of fabric have you used?

I'd say apply a good 7 or 8 coats of clear resin over the whole thing, leaving a few hours for coats to go off. Mix a little wax in styrene in with the last coat, and then start sanding back once the whole thing's cured

I've found the best way to get a deep gloss finish is to just polish the resin rather than laquering over the top. Find the laquer makes the part looks really shallow for some reason.

What resin did you use out of interest?

[march109]

I really have to buy more CF only 1m^2 left.

Looks really good, I tend to favour surf board style laquers for the top coats, its clearer and UV resistant.

[oakey]

High temp epoxy resin is what I used. I bought it all as a kit from www.carbonmods.com

There are two layers of carbon and one layer of kevlar.

I've run out of resin now, it's had 3 final coats.

What do you mean by surfboard lacquers March??

[march109]

Surfboards are essentially glass fibre over foam. Surf boards are designed to be strong, water proof, out in the sun and decorative. The specific laquers they use on surfboards are a little more techy than what I've used reguarly but have had good results. They are clearer and provide a nice deep look to the carbon and are also UV resistant and highly water resistant, handy for car parts out in the road, that will get washed reguarly like bidy panels or even made of kevlar which is sensitive to light.

Pure kevlar tends to suffer UV degredation and I do tend to use a lot of CF/kevlar composte, its stronger, lighter and cheaper than pure Carbon Firbre. Can also brag my parts are bullet proof!! Normally I sandwich a layer of CF/Kevlar composite between every 2 layers on CF, leaving CF on the outer visible sides. But I'm still worried about UV penetration weakening parts strength.

For me the heat durability and tensile and torsional strength (of well designed parts) as well as mass reduction over stock is the exciting thing about CF, I wouldn't feel safe if it was just for 'show'. The Kevlar also helps reduce splintering which can happen when CF reaches failure in the even of an accident.

Though I have seen some figures on CF tensile strength to failure tests versus metal alloys and it performs much better per gram due to the extreme lightness.

Just google for some tech specs on CF strut braces for example ( )!!

[m_jermyn]

I love carbon fibre and I found those links really interesting, I would love to get involved in this industry but dont know how.

I love carbon fibre, I would carbon fiber my head if I could.

[blitz877]

i take it your not using pre-preg c/f sheet then??

[GeoffBob]

Sorry to hijack this very interesting thread gents, but I'd like to ask your collective advice WRT CF if I may (seems there is some excellent CF work in this thread so I thought this might be the place to ask).

I have a GRP bonnet for my R5Turbo track car project arriving in the next few days. Unfortunately these particular pieces from the supplier have a reputation for being on the flimsy side. I was therefore thinking of sanding back/roughing the gel coat and applying a layer or two of CF over the piece. I was however wondering if I would have any issues with the CF delaminating from the GRP after it weathers in the sun/cold and is exposed to heat from the engine. Any suggestions on how I might tackle this task would be appreciated.

[oakey]

Sorry to hijack this very interesting thread gents, but I'd like to ask your collective advice WRT CF if I may (seems there is some excellent CF work in this thread so I thought this might be the place to ask).

I have a GRP bonnet for my R5Turbo track car project arriving in the next few days. Unfortunately these particular pieces from the supplier have a reputation for being on the flimsy side. I was therefore thinking of sanding back/roughing the gel coat and applying a layer or two of CF over the piece. I was however wondering if I would have any issues with the CF delaminating from the GRP after it weathers in the sun/cold and is exposed to heat from the engine. Any suggestions on how I might tackle this task would be appreciated.

linkyVVV

[oakey]

i take it your not using pre-preg c/f sheet then??

I will be for the throttle plate part but this was made in using carbon fiber fabric and resin, much the same as making things from glass fiber.

See the youtube links

[blitz877]

i take it your not using pre-preg c/f sheet then??

I will be for the throttle plate part but this was made in using carbon fiber fabric and resin, much the same as making things from glass fiber.

See the youtube links

just a general Q that was all mate, iv just had some parts made in pre preg, its generally quicker to make but time consuming when curing under pressure

[oakey]

Surfboards are essentially glass fibre over foam. Surf boards are designed to be strong, water proof, out in the sun and decorative. The specific laquers they use on surfboards are a little more techy than what I've used reguarly but have had good results. They are clearer and provide a nice deep look to the carbon and are also UV resistant and highly water resistant, handy for car parts out in the road, that will get washed reguarly like bidy panels or even made of kevlar which is sensitive to light.

Pure kevlar tends to suffer UV degredation and I do tend to use a lot of CF/kevlar composte, its stronger, lighter and cheaper than pure Carbon Firbre. Can also brag my parts are bullet proof!! Normally I sandwich a layer of CF/Kevlar composite between every 2 layers on CF, leaving CF on the outer visible sides. But I'm still worried about UV penetration weakening parts strength.

For me the heat durability and tensile and torsional strength (of well designed parts) as well as mass reduction over stock is the exciting thing about CF, I wouldn't feel safe if it was just for 'show'. The Kevlar also helps reduce splintering which can happen when CF reaches failure in the even of an accident.

Though I have seen some figures on CF tensile strength to failure tests versus metal alloys and it performs much better per gram due to the extreme lightness.

Just google for some tech specs on CF strut braces for example ( )!!

I was thinking about making a cf strut brace. You could make it from some blue foam or polystyrene and wrap it in cf and not have to worry about removing the foam. Maybe use metal end bits from another brace to make things easier.

[GeoffBob]

linkyVVV

Many thanks.

[oakey]

I have given it a few more coats of lacquer now and it's starting to look good. A few more coats and some more wet&drying and I think I'll be happy with the finish

[oakey]

Anyone with an s50 could you please measure the inlet hole into the airbox/plenum for me please?

[tomson]

I'll do it in the morning for you sir!

[oakey]

Sorry. Didn't mean for it to sound like a demand

Thank you

[jmc330i]

oakey - I cant find the thread you put up, but do you still need an S50 inlet elbow? Ive got one here that is split, but could do you for a mock up?

Yours for postage.


The inlet into the plenum is a bit of an odd shape, but its roughly 8"x6" (20x15cm).

[tomson]

Just remembered to measure it!

The B32 plenum is indeed an odd shape its roughly 147mm x195mm

[tomson]

Thats the internal measurements btw

[oakey]

Thanks guys!
It's too big but I may be able to squish it down to 120mm ??

How much do you think postage will be jmc330i?

[jmc330i]

Thanks guys!
It's too big but I may be able to squish it down to 120mm ??

Dont know if it will squish much. I was just looking at pics of an S54, that has a smaller round elbow by the looks of it, but I cant tell if its rubber or plastic. Might be worth a try though.

How much do you think postage will be jmc330i?

No more than £10 I would think. Its not heavy and would fit in something like a shoebox. I think DHL or UPS are around £6-£7 +vat.

As I said, it is split but if you can make any use of it for molding/mock up, its yours.