Flushing the radiator (Thanks for the help)

Sat Jul 25, 2009 5:05 pm

Was sitting in some heavy traffic tonight and the temp gauge started to rise a little, didnt get into the red but went between halfway and the red.. Probably nothing to worry about but got me thinking how long ago was the system flushed?

So whats the best way to do it on a e30? Its a 6cyl manual if that makes any difference.

Mike

Sat Jul 25, 2009 6:23 pm

you could just remove the top and bottom hose and flush the rad with a hose pipe, but seeing as your temp gauge is rising in stationary traffic it is a sign of the fan clutch on its way out... but the guage on an E30 is non-linear so anywhere on the middle bit is OK as this only covers a few degrees, red or blue areas is where you dont want to be....

for info when my cabby starts to creap up i turn on the heater and fan to full, it brings it down nicely, just a bit hot for me though!!

mrlee

Sat Jul 25, 2009 6:57 pm

Keep typing this,these cars are getting on now,silt and other crud will form in the waterjacket and the radiator,reducing the capacity of both so that less and less coolant is carried.
Less coolant means less efficient heat transfer,hence the system runs hotter.
Good start is to reverse flush the radiator,take the thing out and put your hose pipe in the bottom hose hole and see if that loosens any rubbish.
I assume that things that naturaly obstruct the system such as thermostat and water pump are in good order?

Sat Jul 25, 2009 9:50 pm

If you are seeing the temp rise is when stationary it could be the fan clutch that is gone. Easy to replace, but better to buy an original from the dealers.

Sun Jul 26, 2009 3:01 am

Yeah everything seems to be in good order and I have never seen the temp rise before, We were sitting in traffic for about 15 mins not moving really at all.. As soon as i could travel 100 meters or so the temp went back down. I was thinking after 20 odd years there is going to be some cruddy stuff floating around in there..

So you suggest to reverse flush the rad? What about the block?

Mike

Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:13 am

Just found this great how too on it.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techart ... -Flush.htm

Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:57 am

That above guide is good if you can get access to the plug under the exhaust manifold... If not I dont know. Problem is I dont want to leave tap water in the motor..

After alot of searching I found this in the forum..

IMPORTANT!!!! MAKE SURE THE CAR AND COOLANT ARE COLD BEFORE OPENING THE CAP ON THE EXPANSION TANK OR DRAINING COOLANT!!!!!!!

****spray the bleed nipple with WD40 the night before you do this****

****Disconnect Battery****

1.Loosen off and remove the cap on the header tank (On RHS next to wing)
Check the tank and cap for Ãƒ”šÃ¢â‚¬ËamayoÃƒ”š' which is a sign that oil is mixing with the coolant (not good)
Also check that the bottom is yellow and rated at 140.If not go to the dealer and get one. (they were subject to a recall years ago as the originals werenÃƒ”š't up to the job)

2.Undo bottom hose from radiator at RHS of the car, let coolant drain (catch it in a bucket and dispose of properly)

3.Undo the 3x 10mm bolts on the thermostat housing (at the front of the engine, in front of the distributor cap) (may need to remove small fuel hose to access one of the top bolts)

4.Remove thermostat, and check its ok (should be closed if cold) If in doubt an new one is Ãƒ”šÃ‚£9.99 from GSF/ECP. Bolt housing back together.

5.Insert hose into header tank (next to RHS wing) and flush system until water is running clear.

6.Remove top hose (LHS) from radiator and flush through with hose until clear

7.Replace the thermostat, and reattach all hoses

8.Pour the coolant into the header tank (located on RHS next to wing) SLOWLY and give it time to settle. (should take about 4.5l to get to cold level marker)

9.Set the heaters to full (HOT and no. 4 fan setting, open all vents) and start car.

10.Let car idle for 5-10mins keeping an eye on the temp gauge

11.Open the 8mm bleed nipple (on top of the thermostat housing) and allow air to escape, then close.

12.Repeat bleeding until all air is out and only water comes out when bleed nipple is opened. Top up if required.

13.Get a cup of coffee and relax for 20 mins

Mike

Sun Jul 26, 2009 1:51 pm

That pelican thing is for an E36 M50 engine, I dont know where the block drain plug is on an M20 but its worth removing it to do a proper flush. Once youve washed as much crud out as you can get some traffic film remover and water into the system and run the car for a day or two, this works really well.

If you havnt changed the rad before its a good idea to do it anyway, do you have an uprated rad or aircon spec rad due to your warmer climate?

Sun Jul 26, 2009 3:36 pm

lol eeer no idea if we get uprated rads, if they are they are standard to us lol.

Im going to put a radiator flusher through it tomorrow and drive it around. Then do a proper flush and back flush the radiator like daimlerman and mrlee30 suggested (thanks guys your imput is greatly appreciated always)

I have got a really good coolent to go in there and also 10litres or demineralised water aswell.

Mike

Sun Jul 26, 2009 4:35 pm

DanThe wrote:, I dont know where the block drain plug is on an M20

19mm plug hidden under the exhaust manifold at the back. Don't expect to have skin on your knuckles after removing it.
Needs a 19mm ring spanner with a flat end to remove it. No room for the angled end on most comb1 spanners.

Mon Jul 27, 2009 3:11 pm

So i flushed the radiator today and all went pretty well. I emptied the radiator then put the flusher through the system, Drove it around with the heater on for a while then emptied the system again. Refilled with mineral water and drove around some more, emptied again. Finally filled with good coolent.

I found the 19mm plug on the block and it is damn near impossible to remove, I feared if I managed to get it undone I would not be able to do it up again. So I left it alone.

You can see the plug here I have the torch shinning on it.

Dirty under there

Oooh nice and clean now. 23 years of shit removed.

Why do I have a braided hose coming from the steering rack?

Mike

Mon Jul 27, 2009 3:13 pm

Oh seems the clutch on my fan has gone aswell, I did the news paper test as suggested and I stopped the fan... Bugger, how do I fix this? What part number ect ect

Mike

Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:32 pm

A word of caution to the wise when bleeding air from the coolant system be careful with the bleed screw. The bleed screws can become brittle and break then you are shagged you can bleed the system with the coolant cap off. Start engine from cold, remove cap, switch on fan to hot and full power inside the car. Then proceed to squeeze all the coolant pipes until the car is up to temp on the gauge. Top off coolant fluid, retighten the coolant cap and hey presto.

Mike in terms of your VC I dont know what car stores you got out there in Oz but you best off going to a motor factors rather than a retailer. For the part number you should check www.realoem.com but pre 87 6cyl =11521723918 after 87 6 cyl =11521740962. Try get a known brand Sachs or Boge cost wise £30-60 in UK depending where you get it from. Get stuck try e-bay. Also be sure to get the VC fan spanner to fit the massive nut attached to the VC slip this on the nut hold the fan blades carefully and turn spanner and fan blades opposite directions. You can buy a tool to hold the fan blades to avoid breaking them but if your careful you can do without this. You may also need to remove the fan shroud good luck matey.

Tue Jul 28, 2009 1:33 am

Is this what im after?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-BMW- ... 103wt_1056

Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:47 am

Thats the one, is your electric fan working as I see you have air con?

Tue Jul 28, 2009 12:40 pm

Yeah the aircon works.. Any idea where to get the tool for the fan clutch? realoem want way to much money for a big spanner lol by the time it would get to me it would cost around 40GBP or $80 aust.

Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:41 pm

m_jermyn wrote:Yeah the aircon works.. Any idea where to get the tool for the fan clutch? realoem want way to much money for a big spanner lol by the time it would get to me it would cost around 40GBP or $80 aust.

Mine is a Draper,came from my local tool shop,not much use to you in Oz!
Think the point that Dan is trying to make regarding air-con is in relation to the extra electric fan mounted in front of the radiator on air-con equiped cars,if this is working you could just remove the other fan from the coupling....maybe fit a manual over-ride switch for the electric fan?

Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:49 pm

i have been meaning to replace the coolant in mine.

Tue Jul 28, 2009 4:05 pm

Hello mate yea that VC looks good US part numbers are diff but if your car is listed should be fine. As for the spanner any long handled thin 32mm spanner will do the trick I have found some on ebay Uk for as little as £6 up to a £10. Some of the companies offer worldwide postage heres some links.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trks ... Categories

This one will post:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DEFEND ... 7C294%3A50

Good Luck Matey

Tue Jul 28, 2009 11:24 pm

Are you saying I can replace the viscous fan with a electric thermo fan? Has anyone done this?

Mike

Tue Jul 28, 2009 11:39 pm

m_jermyn wrote:Are you saying I can replace the viscous fan with a electric thermo fan? Has anyone done this?

Mike

Plenty of us have done this, following an engine conversion, when there's no longer room for the mechanical fan.The viscous fan is far more efficient and reliable though.

Wed Jul 29, 2009 10:24 am

You dont replace the viscous fan, you use a front mounted electric fan (you already have one)
I have the same aircon fan setup as you but with a 24v engine, I use an 80°-88° fan switch in the side of the rad with no problems.

Depending on how hot it actually gets round your way this should do the job just as well as the viscous