crank fornt bolt thingy

Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 7:55 pm

Right trying to strip my engine, and I'm down to undoing the crank front bolt. I don't have an engine stand and every piece of wood I try to wedge in the crank is just getting splintered by the counterweights. The engine has no fly wheel too so I can't do it that way. They must be done up very very tight - any ideas??

Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:07 pm

i had a 2 foot of 5mmx25mm steel with two holes drilled so i could bolt it to 2 of the crank bolts and simply locked it against the engine stand!

oh might mention 6foot scafold bar and 3 friends swinging off the end!!!!!!!

Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:11 pm

Take it to a garage and they can do it in a vice or use an air gun.

Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:11 pm

Hmmm, I don't want to admit defeat but I may have to wait till I get an engine stand.

Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:14 pm

You do know that you can still take the crank out the engine with the front pulley on and the surrounding bracket.

Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:17 pm

OH REALLY! how the F*ck does that work!

And no there is no way I'm taking it to a garage.

Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:26 pm

Widge wrote:OH REALLY! how the F*ck does that work!

And no there is no way I'm taking it to a garage.

Sorry if i offended you widge, but i don't know what kind of knowledge you have.

I was just trying to help

Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:48 pm

I found that a stick of aluminium about 10mm in diameter and about 150mm long stuck in the crank case so that the webs for cylinders 3 and 4 bear against it, combined with the weight of my dad hanging on a 2 foot breaker bar undid mine

Conveniently, my mass and the aforementioned breaker bar produce almost exactly the specified tightening torque when it came to doing it back up again

Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 9:15 pm

chu346 wrote:
Widge wrote:OH REALLY! how the F*ck does that work!

And no there is no way I'm taking it to a garage.
Sorry if i offended you widge, but i don't know what kind of knowledge you have.

I was just trying to help

Sorry mate - I can do it if a garage can. An the first bit meant, how does it come undone? I didn't think you can get to all the bolts for the front oil seal plate.

Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 10:01 pm

Wahoooooo done it!!!

Used the metal rod in crank method and put the block on it's head then hit a welded up socket wrench with a 14lb sledge and shocked it free!!

Now I assume I need a puller to get the crank sprocket off?

Post Tue Aug 09, 2005 2:04 pm

Sprocket should just pull off by hand, use a bit of WD40 and tap it VERY gently with a soft faced hammer

Post Tue Aug 09, 2005 3:10 pm

Haynes manual says use a puller, but there is no where to get the legs in

I think wd40 and tapping th crank bolt with a hammer should vibrate it loose.

Post Tue Aug 09, 2005 4:59 pm

Aah, sorry! I was talking about the 2.5's toothed belt pulley

Post Tue Aug 09, 2005 5:10 pm

Hmm yeah, can't seem to get the TIMING BELT pulley off the crank, and I don't think my bearing pullers legs will fit between the cover and the pulley.....hmmmm

Post Tue Aug 09, 2005 5:49 pm

Hmmmmm can't find my bloody bearing puller.......................got a set of torx sockets in the market though, bargin at Ãƒ”šÃ‚£9.99!

I really don't think when I find it there will be enough room.........

Post Tue Aug 09, 2005 6:53 pm

Super duper, I found the pullers but it wouldn't go on, so I had a go with a crooked pull and as I was doing the centre up by hand the pulley slid off!! Must have been the WD40 overnight and the application of a small force in the right direction. WHopee i can have the Eta crank in for measurements tonight!!!