ETA Block Pictures - Is this still salvagable?

[isis]

Hi guys.

I've just spend a week and still going reading through all the posts on the 2.7 builds.
i managed to get a block on the cheap only to realise its been sitting out in the open for awhile.
He's left the oil in there.

i've been told by people that i should just get rid of it as it'll cost too much to re-bore & honed.

The pistons kinda look buggered too..
If they are, what pistons is interchangeable with the ETA block?

I've got a 320i Touring that i'm hoping to use the block with.

Cheers for any input.

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[UweM3]

chuck it!

[chu346]

Take the crank, scrap the rest.

[isis]

what would i use the crank for?

[leeparkes]

It looks a bit ropey fella,maybe it can be saved but its a bit of a risk and could be a waste of money!

[UweM3]

It looks a bit ropey fella,maybe it can be saved but its a bit of a risk and could be a waste of money!

Agree, if that would be a super rare unobtainable block I would give it go, but I am sure there are others out there in better condition.

[chu346]

what would i use the crank for?

Because that is the bit that increases the stroke and makes a 2.5 into a 2.7.

If you take the crank you can use it in another block. Have you not read the sticky?

[isis]

Have just read through it again now that most seem to think its a waste to use the block.
The sticky mention using the 325i block with the ETA crank but requires more modifications. If i re-use my existing 320 block, would i still need to do all that machining work?
trying to keep the costs down as i planned on using my 731 head with the eta block - now useless!

[chu346]

You'll need to do the same work as with a 325i block, plus you'll need to bore the block to fit the larger 325i/eta pistons.

[daimlerman]

That block will need a rebore to make it any use at all.
Pistons look to be scrap as well.
IFF the crank is clean,have it re-ground undersize and have the machine shop supply the shells to match.
You can either retain the eta rods or use your 320 rods,they are the same part.
Block;
1)best practice would be to have either your 320(80mm)block bored to 84mm then use a better set of eta pistons.
2)re.bore the eta block oversize and buy pistons to match.
3)buy a s/h 325 block(almost identical to eta block)and use that.
Pistons;
1)Using eta pistons is the simple opton,the piston will fit the shorter 320/525e rods and clear the crank with no further work.
2)use 325i pistons.These will not come to the top of the bore,so the top of the block will require 'decking' to ajust this.How much? I do not know,you will have to 'dummy build one cylinder and measure it.
Also,these pistons will require their skirts shortening to clear the crank.Once again,you will have to try 'em to find out by how much.
Cylinder head.
Your 320 head will be fine with eta pistons.If you elect for 325 pistons,you wil need a 325(885 casting)head to suit them.
Manifolds.
Use a 325 inlet complete with injectors,fuel rail,and fuel pressure regulator.
Building a good 2.7 takes time and will cost at least £1500.
You can get similar performance from an M50 that can be bought still attached to an E34 for £250-£350 and the instalation DiY will cost another £1000 or so,depending on your fabrication skills and your solutions to the exhaust manifold and engine wiring issues.

[isis]

i might as well pick up a 325i block on the cheap and do the work. can i still use the 731 head from my touring or should i dump it?
cost seems to be adding up, might as well go on a hunt for another eta block..

[daimlerman]

You have the right idea now!
325i/eta block are to all intents idendtical.Only difference is the 'steam holes' between the bores on one of them.
The biggest decision is piston choice,325i piston will significantly raise your costs.
Retaining the 731 head and using eta pistons and a 325,or better still a 323 cam,will give you a powerful torquey engine.Mine 'only' tops out at 175bhp but produces 190ft lb from 2000rpm up to 5250rpm...in real terms on the road this means that I can sit behind a truck running at 55mph and wait for a gap in the oncoming,then just plant the loud pedal,in 5th,and be doing 85mph as I pass the front of the truck,no fuss,no drama,no loud exhaust to upset anyone...just discreete power,very satisfying!

[isis]

if you said my pistons in the eta block is shot, then there is no way i could re-use it.
buying new ones is out of the question as it cost too much.
there are no other pistons that are similar to the ETA?
my plan is building a low down torquey engine for the touring on a budget.
therefore M50's and lots of machining workare out of the question.
I've read heaps of your posts daimlerman and this is route that i really wanted go.

i'll put the whole block for sale and go on a hunt for another

[daimlerman]

Building a 2.7 is not the cheap option,you will be suprised how the odd bits mount up in cost.
I was talking to Stonsie on Friday evening,he's building a 2.8 at the moment,and he's admiting to having spent £1500 to date...
My inital plan was the same as yours,I sourced an eta short motor for £100,another £250 or so saw it in the car and running,with the oil light flickering and clouds of blue smoke!
Only option was to start again with a better block and new rings and a re-ground crank.
That was three years back,engine has now run some 40,000 miles and is great fun to drive.
It's in the car on the right in my piccie,BTW.
Expensive one in the middle,and my M50 engined touring is on the left.
If you have good welding skills and are a good auto electrician,M50 honestly is the cheap way to more power.M52 is much costly to buy,but gives even more.

[isis]

i was planning on freshning up the block before installing it.
i'd rather do it once and do it right rather than having to pull it out again.
So new rings etc was on the books...
oh well..

Nice fleet you have!

[daimlerman]

May be a plan to get those pistons out and have go at cleaning them up.
IF you can get them rust free and the ring grooves clean,get a machine shop to check to make sure they are still the proper,round shape...then just £100 worth of new rings,similar for a crank re-grind,£50 for new bearing shells,£50 for a better block,few quid to the machine shop to hone it,£100 for gaskets/new head bolts,£50 for a 325 inlet and bits,reasonable motor for £500?

[stonesie]

That looks a bit roapy, the only way to salvage that is a re-bore and then your talking a new set of pistons/rings... not worth it IMO

The worst part... I've just scrapped a 2.5 block that could have done with a hone because I couldn't give the thing away

I dont know where your from but we could have sorted something out.


£100 for gaskets and bolts??? where from mate? I was charged nearly double that for a Payen top and bottom gasket set and genuine headbolts (headset was £125 alone)

[daimlerman]

GSF is your friend here,I paid around £50 for a headset,they also supplied a sump gasket and headbolts,all brand name stuff as supplied by BMW.Odd bits that GSF could not supply came from the local stealer at a huge price....it's all a matter of shopping around.

[UweM3]

May be a plan to get those pistons out and have go at cleaning them up.
IF you can get them rust free and the ring grooves clean,get a machine shop to check to make sure they are still the proper,round shape...then just £100 worth of new rings,similar for a crank re-grind,£50 for new bearing shells,£50 for a better block,few quid to the machine shop to hone it,£100 for gaskets/new head bolts,£50 for a 325 inlet and bits,reasonable motor for £500?

why do you want to re-grind the crank? I can see no need if the journals are all good and in spec. BTW strictly speaking a piston isn't really round.

[isis]

i'll take it apart on the weekend and see how it goes.
Be great if i can salvage those pistons