Loss of coolant.....

[dippae30]

thinking abt getting a 325i but the sender has declared the coolant gets very low after abt 200miles, suspiciouns are on a head gasket job???
could this be the case?

there no blue smoke, no mayonnaise effect under the coolant cap...

[Dan318-is]

very low after 200 miles of driving or after topping it up?

assuming theres no slow leaks it woudlnt be thermostat, water pump, or radiater i dont think

sounds like a HG to me

[dippae30]

200 miles after topping up...

[E30BeemerLad]

look at the car when it is cold, like been stood overnight and look under the oil filler cap on the rocker cover, that's where you'll find mayonaise if there is any.

Headgasket is a common failure at intervals of between 40-50K miles. To do the headgasket assuming you did not need to skim the head you are into about Ԛ£100 of parts for a gasket set and head bolts.

Mine went recently, it started pressurising the cooling system and was only dumping coolant when the car was switched off, it was coming out the breather hose on the expansion tank.

I have cheated and poured a solution into my system, this is excellent stuff and not just rad weld / temp fix stuff. It is called Kalimex K-seal. It fixes the problem in about 3 minutes and is guaranteed for the life of the engine.

Try www.kalimex.co.uk for more details.

So if you are interested in the car and can get it cheap then consider using this stuff.

I have done about 1000 miles in mine and have continued to thrash it as usual and it is running perfect

[dippae30]

thanks mate.....

it is the head gasket.........

hmmm check that stuff out too.............

[Danstable]

Kalimex K-seal......just what I need!!

A mate at work suggested rad seal stuff as a possible fix for my cracked head but said the chances of it working would be no more than 30%, I just didn't fancy driving round in a car that I didn't have confidence in.

Sounds to me like this stuff should do the trick....only slight hesitation I have is if it has to be poured into the cooling system with the engine up to temperature and running. According to my garage, the back pressure causes water to shoot out of the expansion tank when the cap is removed.

Any advice on this?

[E30BeemerLad]

it should only dump coolant out the expansion tank when you first take the cap off due to the build up in pressure, so one it has done it's quick old geezer trick you should be able to pour in the solution and it will fix it whilst it sits there ticking over.

Put it this way, I am not against taking a bit of a chance by spending about Ԛ£30 on a bottle of this stuff in the hope I don't have to mess about and take the head off in due course. If it eventually gives up and dies then I will have to take the head off, but for the time being the car continues to get the abuse it did prior to getting the K seal and it is not giving me any grief at the moment

[Danstable]

Thanks for the reply. I called the K-Seal manufacturers and had a chat, ideally the engine should be up to temperature when you add the 'gunk', but the engine can be switched off, doesn't need to be running as you add it.

Hate to be the bearer of 'bad' news but the RRP is Ԛ£9.40, the garage I'm getting mine from charge Ԛ£12, and the dude on the phone said he's seen it sell for Ԛ£36 on ebay! An ebay purchase by any chance??!

Like you say, Ԛ£30 is better that Ԛ£200 or so any day......so my news wasn't that bad I'm sure!

Cheers.

[ivqii]

Ԛ£8.40 from the factors in Water lane,Totton,Southampton

[E30BeemerLad]

I didn't pay anything for it mate as my old man had a bottle and never asked me for any $$$, hehe.

He did say to me that it cost around Ԛ£30 a bottle, but I think he had bought 3 bottles of the stuff a while back, maybe before it was officially imported into here from the states.

He used some on a diesel shogun with a cracked head 7 months ago and that is still running without problems apparently, saved the geezer with the Shogun about Ԛ£600 in the end.

Give it a try, nowt to lose really is there?

[Danstable]

I think I might just owe you a pint for that link mate.

Fingers crossed that it works.

Thanks again.

[Martinaston]

I'm going to be a right git now and ask how i would spot a car with this in ?

If you bought a car with a cracked head then you would not be too happy would you?

Are you guys honest enough to answer ?

I would only use that stuff as a stop gap until i had raised the funds for a new head (and i don't mean by selling the car ) because my real name is Honest John

[Danstable]

No idea how to spot the stuff......but it says that it continues to seal cracks and holes etc for as long as it is in the system......so in theory as long as there is always some in there then a cracked head shouldn't matter!

Just sell the car with a couple of containers of it in the boot

Dan

PS I am joking!

[E30BeemerLad]

well I would mention it to a fellow zoner and it has been broadcast anyway on here enough so no avoiding it.

My way of thinking is that it no longer has a cracked hear of faulty head gasket as the thing has been sorted.

It seems pretty easy to spot the stuff though Martin as you can see the little bits of copper and carbon fibre in the coolant when you take the cap off the tank so I don't think you could blag it much anyway.

Way I see it is why spend hundreds of pounds messing around with the head off if this stuff will permanently prevent it from cooking itself?

[ivqii]

Are you guys honest enough to answer ?

[/quote]

[ivqii]

Sorry-to continue however

Funny phrasing Martinaston

In my case I have no intention of selling

I have a very slight loss of coolant

No change of colour on sniff test

No noticeable leaks either in engine bay or underneath

No gunge/oil where it shouldnt be

Not running hot

Thought I would try this stuff

So honesty or the lack of it doesnt enter into it

[Danstable]

Just been and got me some K-Seal, I was expecting a litre sort of size container, ended up with something tiny, 236ml.

Hopefully something so small can sort out a monster headache of a problem. Will keep you posted.

[dippae30]

gonna try it tonight..... may the german be reborn again....

will let u know....

[Danstable]

I stuck mine in last night. Ran it up to temperature, switched off, poured in the gunk, added more water, restarted engine and left it to idle for a good ten minutes. Didn't take it for a drive last night but there was no steam pouring from anywhere so all looked good, went to bed with a smile.

Drove to work this morning, only just over a mile. Car got up to temp in that time and all was fine, no steam, no overheating, no loss of coolant. Went out in the car about an hour ago and within a mile the steam was whisping/pouring from under the bonnet. Nursed it home (only half a mile) and parked it up, by this time the coolant warning light was on on the top display.

Gutted doesn't even come close to how I'm feeling.

I didn't thrash it, far from it. Also, I had a look under the bonnet once I got it home and there appears to be a few spots of what I think is oil on the rocker cover. The crack in the head is apparently between a cylinder and the waterways.....although how that results in steam from under the bonnet I have no idea, let alone oil on the rocker cover!

Anyone have any ideas?

[Martinaston]

It could be blowing the dip stick out, but i doubt it.
It may just be oil getting blown around by the fan.
Does the underside of the bonnet show any marks ?

[Danstable]

I'll have a look tonight, I'm back at work at the mo. It was only a few spots of 'oil'. Can you throw any light on why there would be steam coming from under the bonnet if the crack is simply between a cylinder and the waterways?

I'm sick of this now, I had enough niggly problems to sort out before the damn head went.

The diff is in by the way, I at least got to use it for 3 miles! Only problem is that the speedo now only half works. It sort of 'catches and shows the correct speed for a second before dropping back to 0mph. Is this just likely to be a dirty connection or a shagged sensor do you think?

[Martinaston]

I could be an external crack that the steam is coming from but then you would see the water escaping as it cools down.
If they over heat the pressure is normally released throught the filler cap into a small overflow pipe that runs down in front of the wheel arch (if the expansion tank is on the nearside). Do you have the filler cap with the yellow 140 stamped on the underside? (not important just wondering).

Dan what makes you think you have a pourous head ? in one of your previous post's i noticed you mention the coolent shooting out if you remove the filler cap. Are you sure it's not where the head has corroded around the water channel and the combution gases are pressuring the cooling system.
Top it up and start it and after a few minuets give the top hose a squeez. if it's rock hard before the engine has reached working temperature, then i suspect the aluminium has crumbled and is unable to hold the gasket down. So i don't think the k stuff will realy help, Sorry, as i'm the one who pointed you in that direction.

As for the Diff
I,m positive i told your mate when he collected it that the speed sensor was no good and you should use the one out of your existing diff, But i can't remember if i mentioned that to you
The thing fell apart when i removed it and i only left it in to stop the oil leaking out. It didn't look damaged so may still work and the problem might be the wires for the plug as they have a habit of going brittle.
But hay what do you want fo 80 notes

If it makes you feel any better the diff i replaced it with whines like a bitch as i found out this morning on the way to Stanstead

[Danstable]

You probably did mention the sensor, it's that long ago now I can't remember! Like you say, for Ԛ£80 I can't complain. Can the sensor be replaced ok with the diff fitted?

I don't believe the head is porous, I've been told it's cracked. The garage came to this conclusion simply because it apparently shot water out of the expansion tank when they removed the cap (not sure about the 140 thing).

Water was escaping from somewhere in the engine bay as I could see a pool forming on the floor, seems to be dripping from the rear of the engine.

I'm confused because the garage says it's causing back pressure, therefore a crack between the water jacket and a cylinder, yet water is escaping from the engine somehere.....so how could it be creating back pressure if there is somewhere for it to escape from?

I think my only option is to get the head off and have a look. No bloody time or money at the mo though, got three weddings over the next three weekends......with no transport.

[E30BeemerLad]

I am quite surprised that the stuff hasn't worked.

When I did mine, the only source of the leak of fluid was from the overflow pipe that comes from the neck on the expansion tank. When you take the filler cap off mine does have the little yellow button saying 140 on it.

I couldn't tell where the leak was coming from to start with as it was running down the back of the near side inner wing and dripping onto the wishbone and dropping down at the bottom mounting point. Mine only spewed out coolant when the car was hot and switched off. Because the engine actually heats up momentarily once switched off, something called "heat soak" apparently.

I think you need to try and find where the fluid is actually escaping from mate in order to get a more accurate diagnosis. See if there is evidence of the coolant coming from the expansion tank overflow.

The K seal stuff should seal any leak on metal components, it won't fix a leak on a hose though.

Finally, did you put your heater on full blast after topping up the coolant, just so the stuff flows all the way through the system?

[Danstable]

I'm reasonably sure it isn't coming from the overflow although not 100% certain......but I originally saw steam rising from the back of the engine.

Mine spews out steam when running but then stops when the engine is shut off. The amount of steam doesn't seem constant either.......although this could just be down to air circulation under the bonnet (I'm going by what I can see coming from the side of the bonnet when in the driver's seat.

Didn't put the heater on full blast after topping up, although did put the heater on this morning before setting off, heard a gurgling from behind the dash for a couple of seconds then it was fine. I assume that was just pushing out an air pocket and all is now fine.

Like I say, it seemed ok for the first 20 minutes of idling and driving then is suddenly started again.....like the repair had failed.

Will have to see if I can spot where the water is coming from although I don't fancy my chances due to the cramped engine bay and mucky everything!

Will probably let it idle for a bit tonight and see what happens.

[E30BeemerLad]

bummer, I'm gutted for you mate as I suggested this damn stuff and it worked a treat for me

[Danstable]

No worries, it was well worth a try.

[Andy335Touring]

I'd say top it up and rebleed it with the heater on,sounds like you might have just had an air lock ?

What was the temp gauge reading ?

Was the heater still working later on when you had the steam ?

Is your bottom rad hose getting hot when your engine is up to temp ?

I hope it's just an air lock not your head, touch wood !

Good luck !

andy

[shane320i]

What a coincidence,i was just about to post a similar problem that started yesterday,tho im only getting around 100 miles between top ups,my car doesnt overheat tho(i keep toping it up when the check computer lights up),just loses coolant and has that orrible mayonaise around the oil filler cap Is replacing the h/g a big job?

[Danstable]

Andy, I didn't check the heater when it was steaming.....but how would an air lock cause the symptoms that I have? Also, when I got back last night there was a definate puddle of something under the car, I assume it's water but not yet checked.

The temperature was fine when it was driving and didn't rise after the steam incident although I got it home and switched off within a couple of minutes of the steam appearing.

Will top it up and run it up to temperature again to see what happens.

How much does a gasket and set of head bolts cost....is there anything else I will need to replace if I take the head off.....other than the head if it's fecked?

Dan

[beardymat]

hey dan


do you want me to pop over at some point and give you a second pair of eyes on the job?could do with bringin those bits over for you too

[Danstable]

That would be spot on Matt, I will be around on sunday if thats any good for you?

Also do you have a spare speed sensor for the diff? Not sure if they're differenet for each ratio or not.

Dan

PS I hear you're having a bit of an ebay nightmare?!

[beardymat]

got the ebay thing sorted,kit sat in my shed as we speak(and a couple of guys going nuts for the leftover spare bits)

its that ferrybridge meet on sunday,could see about working round it!!

afraid its a no no on the speed sensor

[E30BeemerLad]

check out a company like German Swedish & French for cost of parts

Think your're gonna be into about Ԛ£60 for the head gasket, Ԛ£20 for headbolts. gonna need a new timing belt Ԛ£10, tensioner Ԛ£10, daft not to do the water pump whilst it is off Ԛ£20

you're prob into about Ԛ£150 for the parts alone mate, assuming head ain't goosed.

[dippae30]

yo...........

dont wanna jynx it but everything seems ok at the mo......everything was running normal........done a 20 mile round trip and no visual loss of coolant.....

gonna check again tonight...

sorry to hear abt the other machine.....