External battery/extinguisher pulls (pics please)

[rix313]

I'm after some pictures and advice on where you have located your external fire extinguisher and battery pull cables on your E30's.

Cheers

[kimbo]

On any saloon car, the convention is for both of the above to be mounted at the base of the widscreen on the left hand side(i.e. what would be the kerb side, if it were on a road). Dont think its actually written down anywhere that they HAVE to be there.
Clearly labelled with the correct symbols, otherwise a marshall (probably me!) will set your extinguisher off when all they meant to do was turn off the electrics. Ho hum.

Kim

[moggy]

Our pull cables are in the centre base of the windscreen. I will take pics tomorrow if you want

The ball ache is fitting the switches from the battery mounted in the boot to the front of the car.

[kimbo]

Heres an image of where ours are fitted, bonnet off.


And heres a sort of overall view


A bit blurry that one, so heres another for good luck


Hope that they help.

Kim

[cragles]

Fitted ours in the same place as above on our race car..

externally



internally

[JimmyC]

External switches:


Internal switches:


FX control box

[GeoffBob]

Rich,

I see you have posted a few questions relating to vehicle electrics lately. Have a look out for this book if you get a chance.



Packed full of pratical tips and how-to ideas. Includes information on wiring looms and how to install instruments.

[rix313]

Awsome thanks guys

Here's how my switch is internaly:







Kimbo and Cragles: How do you go about fitting them there? Easy access from both sides? etc? Also, what length cable did you use for the battery switch?

Jimmy: Your system looks very fancy how does it work?

Geoffbob: I get paid soon so will prob go for it. Do you know if the suspension version is worth getting too?

[GeoffBob]

Geoffbob: I get paid soon so will prob go for it. Do you know if the suspension version is worth getting too?

Ooooh, I would just love that suspension book! Unfortunately I don't yet have it, but one day soon.. In fact I think I'd like to collect the whole Haynes "Competition" series of books eventually. I think there is about 5 or 6 in total.

Great work on the switch,

Regards
Geoff.

[cragles]

rix, I don't think you have got the right switch - there's two types, one like yours and one like the one on the front of the "competition car electrics" book above. The one we have is the same as the book above and has a seperate resistor and cut-off circuitry to protect something, and is what's needed for cars with alternators if I recall correctly???

[cragles]

Oh and we used two new battery cables of about 3-4 feet in length.

Our internal switch is where your's is, but orientated the other way to make the external cable routing easier.

The external pulls were easy enough to fit, the both have a solid end at the cable-pull end which can slot through nicely when you drill a hole on the outer scuttle and one on the inner scuttle

[JimmyC]

I have an electric FX and an electric isolator on mine, so no nasty pull cables to rust up, snap at scrutineering etc

The resistor is to protect the alternator

[Lloydie38]

Heres an image of where ours are fitted, bonnet off.


And heres a sort of overall view


A bit blurry that one, so heres another for good luck


Hope that they help.

Kim

No thread hyjack intended - just need to know where you got your bumper bonet and boot from - PM me to save a real hyjack!!

[GeoffBob]

rix, I don't think you have got the right switch - there's two types, one like yours and one like the one on the front of the "competition car electrics" book above. The one we have is the same as the book above and has a seperate resistor and cut-off circuitry to protect something, and is what's needed for cars with alternators if I recall correctly???

It's Ok to use a single-pole switch (single pair of contacts on the rear of the switch) so long as the alternator and battery are connected to each other before the switch. IE, the switch is used only to isolate the battery and alternator from the main line into the fuse box. Whether this will pass inspection is another question altogether, this certainly isn't the FIA approved way of doing it, but it works just fine and effectively shuts down all electrical supply to everything under the dash and most everything under the bonnet. The FIA approved circuit is in the book "Competition Car Electrics", as above.

[rix313]

rix, I don't think you have got the right switch - there's two types, one like yours and one like the one on the front of the "competition car electrics" book above. The one we have is the same as the book above and has a seperate resistor and cut-off circuitry to protect something, and is what's needed for cars with alternators if I recall correctly???

It's Ok to use a single-pole switch (single pair of contacts on the rear of the switch) so long as the alternator and battery are connected to each other before the switch. IE, the switch is used only to isolate the battery and alternator from the main line into the fuse box. Whether this will pass inspection is another question altogether, this certainly isn't the FIA approved way of doing it, but it works just fine and effectively shuts down all electrical supply to everything under the dash and most everything under the bonnet. The FIA approved circuit is in the book "Competition Car Electrics", as above.

There ya go

My car is a track day car not a 'to spec' competition car. I installed it firstly so I don't have to keep disconnecting the battery every time I park it up in the garage and also thought while it's there and I'm rewiring the alternator (due to relocation), that it would also be sensible to wire it in such a way as it could be used as a 'kill switch' in an 'everything has gone to buggery' situation .

Here is how I've wired it:

Oh and we used two new battery cables of about 3-4 feet in length.

With regards this statement, is it refering to the length of the pull cable or the battery cable? Only ask as you mention you used '2'?

[agent006]

Make sure you label them with words too. Whoever decided that the convention should be Electrics and Extinguisher, and not Electrics and Fire needs shooting. Even after 10 years marshalling i still have to think twice when turning off an electrics switch.

Standard symbols, and worded labels too please.

[GeoffBob]

Make sure you label them with words too. Whoever decided that the convention should be Electrics and Extinguisher, and not Electrics and Fire needs shooting. Even after 10 years marshalling i still have to think twice when turning off an electrics switch.

Could be disastrous to get them confused . I still do a double-take when someone talks about the FX, meaning Fire eXtinguisher - I keep thinking they mean special FX, as if flicking the FX switch will shoot flames out the tail pipe like something out of Thunderbirds

[cragles]

We used two new battery electric cable to connect the switch to the battery and then to connect back to all the wires that were connected to the battery originally.

The actual "pulls" we used are one short one of about 6 feet or so between the scuttle panel and the electric cut-off, and then two longer ones of about 12 feet for the two pulls for the fire extinguisher. We located our fire extinguisher in the rear left footwell area

[rix313]

The actual "pulls" we used are one short one of about 6 feet or so between the scuttle panel and the electric cut-off, and then two longer ones of about 12 feet for the two pulls for the fire extinguisher. We located our fire extinguisher in the rear left footwell area

Brilliant, cheers

I still do a double-take when someone talks about the FX, meaning Fire eXtinguisher - I keep thinking they mean special FX, as if flicking the FX switch will shoot flames out the tail pipe like something out of Thunderbirds

You big kid

[rix313]

Started fitting it today, just gotta route the cable internaly now.








Question: Where can i get one of the little jobbys which holds the cable onto the key?

[kimbo]

I get the 'proper' ones from kart shop (2 sizes, throttle cable and brake cable).
Or the option is to get a bit of 'choc block' electrical connector, and cut out the brass centres.

Kim.

[rix313]

Solderless nipples (name amused me)

Got a 6mm one (to take cable up to 2mm) for £1.50 delivered, bargain.




Dispite the angle, it does pull very smoothly.