E30 with SR20DET
Moderator: martauto
-
fuzzy
- He who sleeps with "Gingers"
- Posts: 14351
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: melbourne Australia
i also had problems trying to get insurancequotes for my original idea of a twin turbo skyline engine in mine. even after much phoning around not 1 company would quote me. i had no problem with the cosworth option for some reason.
-
Bob_S
- Engaged to the E30 Zone
- Posts: 5412
- Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: chester, cheshire
Bloody conversion insurance..Theo325 wrote:Interesting. I think the main problem is that I'm only 22.
It's annoying as I insured the car when it was a 3.5 for about £550 when I was 21. This engine is only 50bhp more ffs.
Bollocks to this 24v scrap!
The project has been given the green light, thanks to... er, Greenlight. They actually gave me two quotes, so they come highly recommended to anyone in the same position.
On a different note, has anyone got experience of using a pipe bender like this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-16-TON-HYDRAU ... 7C294%3A50
I was thinking it could be good for making the intercooler pipes, and also some sections of the exhaust.
On a different note, has anyone got experience of using a pipe bender like this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-16-TON-HYDRAU ... 7C294%3A50
I was thinking it could be good for making the intercooler pipes, and also some sections of the exhaust.
Yes, but more useful for building a roll-cage from 38mm or 42mm OD pipe. Mandrel bent pipe or preformed sections are preferable for any part of the induction or exhaust system. Hydraulic benders tend to squish down on the pipe as they bend, reducing the cross-section.
Nice choice of engine by the way, I'm a big fan of the SR20, and an even bigger fan of the RB26. Glad you got your insurance sorted.
Nice choice of engine by the way, I'm a big fan of the SR20, and an even bigger fan of the RB26. Glad you got your insurance sorted.
Brent Acre were fine for me with my dodgy history - that was for both the iS w/ charger and the M3.Theo325 wrote:Oh dear. We have a problem.
Can't find anyone stupid enough to insure the car. Seems to be alot of anti-rice sentiment in the insurance industry.
Gay gay gay.
E46 M3 CSL but dreaming of another E30.
Brentachre for me too, they base the quote on bhp so mine going up from 129 to about 200 (told them 210-220) added £100 for the year when i get round to fitting it.... All the suspension work didn't add a penny 
-
fuzzy
- He who sleeps with "Gingers"
- Posts: 14351
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: melbourne Australia
cant it be used in a similar style as plumbers do on building sites? they fit a tightly coiled spring inside the pipe before bending to stop the creasing at the corners?GeoffBob wrote:Yes, but more useful for building a roll-cage from 38mm or 42mm OD pipe. Mandrel bent pipe or preformed sections are preferable for any part of the induction or exhaust system. Hydraulic benders tend to squish down on the pipe as they bend, reducing the cross-section.
Nice choice of engine by the way, I'm a big fan of the SR20, and an even bigger fan of the RB26. Glad you got your insurance sorted.
Interesting, I'll hold fire on the pipe bender for now - they're lots of other jobs to be worrying about before that. Would the pipe be less prone to crushing if filled with sand and heated prior to bending?GeoffBob wrote:Yes, but more useful for building a roll-cage from 38mm or 42mm OD pipe. Mandrel bent pipe or preformed sections are preferable for any part of the induction or exhaust system. Hydraulic benders tend to squish down on the pipe as they bend, reducing the cross-section.
Nice choice of engine by the way, I'm a big fan of the SR20, and an even bigger fan of the RB26. Glad you got your insurance sorted.
A big power RB26 in an E30 would be amazing, you could probably pull wheelies! I wanted the SR20 for it's lightness and cheap power.
Target now is to have it finished by the end of August, ready for a Ring trip in September.
Not entirely sure, but I would expect that fitting something inside the pipe or filling with sand will likely only help in the case of very thin walled pipe. The force required to bend a thicker pipe is large (hence the hydraulic aid) and I doubt any fitmemt or filler inside the pipe would put up much resistance.
These are still very useful tools to have around and certainly have their place in the workshop. Smaller hand operated versions are available in common (1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2") sizes for bending up fuel and hydraulic pipes. These are very useful to have.
These are still very useful tools to have around and certainly have their place in the workshop. Smaller hand operated versions are available in common (1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2") sizes for bending up fuel and hydraulic pipes. These are very useful to have.
Using coiled spring inside is a good method if your NOT heating the pipe, if you are heating it up with a blowtorch the coil will stick to it inside 
If heating the pipe with a blow torch tack a flat plate to one end fill it with sand and heat the hell out of the area where you wish to bend all round and it will bend very easily by slightest of touch (suggest using bbq tongs to save your fingers)
If its for a rollcage you must use seamless CDS tubing otherwise normal tubular steel will split open on impact, fold then cut parts of your body off like hot knife through butter.
If heating the pipe with a blow torch tack a flat plate to one end fill it with sand and heat the hell out of the area where you wish to bend all round and it will bend very easily by slightest of touch (suggest using bbq tongs to save your fingers)
If its for a rollcage you must use seamless CDS tubing otherwise normal tubular steel will split open on impact, fold then cut parts of your body off like hot knife through butter.
-
E30BeemerLad
- Married to the E30 Zone
- Posts: 16806
- Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Norfolk
that's fooking hilarious! 
Here's a proper update then, after starting the projecct last summer I began to realise that doing the conversion was rather pointless with the shell in it's present rusty state. The thought of repairing all the rust scared me so I pretty much forgot about the project but for the occasional frivolous purchase.
Anyway, what with England enjoying it's first summer in three years I thought I'd pull my finger out and get on with things, with the assistance of my mate who actually has a knack of doing work rather than pottering around wasting time like I do.
Jobs done include;
relocation of fusebox inside car
fitting of adjustable pedal box
welding in rollcage load spreaders
welding in plates for eyebolt mounts
lowering steering column
fitting of Hartge bootspoiler
fitting of intercooler, oil cooler and radiator
modifying rear subframe to give adjustable camber & toe
replacing factory lifting squares with sheet metal
numerous rust repairs
removal of unnecessary wiring
New master cylinders
Adjustable pedalbox
Various heat exchanges
Car pretty much as it looks now
Still need to repair the rotten inner arches, underseal the car, paint the interior, cut holes for the intercooler pipes, finish off the throttle linkage and bracket etc, prep the car for paint, get it sprayed, get the exhaust and intercooler pipes fabricated, finish off the wiring, sort out the fuel system and brake lines, fit bonnet pins and cut holes to suit, make heatshield for exhaust downpipe, get custon PAS hoses made, get custom clutch hose made, get the oil cooler pipes tweaked, source a slimline electric fan, mount washer bottle and jets, hopefully fit a heated windscreen and bin the heater box, make up aluminium centre console for the various gauges, cornerweight and align car.....
Anyway, what with England enjoying it's first summer in three years I thought I'd pull my finger out and get on with things, with the assistance of my mate who actually has a knack of doing work rather than pottering around wasting time like I do.
Jobs done include;
relocation of fusebox inside car
fitting of adjustable pedal box
welding in rollcage load spreaders
welding in plates for eyebolt mounts
lowering steering column
fitting of Hartge bootspoiler
fitting of intercooler, oil cooler and radiator
modifying rear subframe to give adjustable camber & toe
replacing factory lifting squares with sheet metal
numerous rust repairs
removal of unnecessary wiring
New master cylinders
Adjustable pedalbox
Various heat exchanges
Car pretty much as it looks now
Still need to repair the rotten inner arches, underseal the car, paint the interior, cut holes for the intercooler pipes, finish off the throttle linkage and bracket etc, prep the car for paint, get it sprayed, get the exhaust and intercooler pipes fabricated, finish off the wiring, sort out the fuel system and brake lines, fit bonnet pins and cut holes to suit, make heatshield for exhaust downpipe, get custon PAS hoses made, get custom clutch hose made, get the oil cooler pipes tweaked, source a slimline electric fan, mount washer bottle and jets, hopefully fit a heated windscreen and bin the heater box, make up aluminium centre console for the various gauges, cornerweight and align car.....
Aint this done yet?!
Look forward to a pax lap in this!
Look forward to a pax lap in this!