tapping from rockers even after adjusing!

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g57yle
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Post Thu Jul 28, 2005 8:35 pm

hi everybody, i just transpanted an m20 b25 into my 320i, and started it but and it was tapping, i checked that oil was cumming upand its all fine, so i properly adjusted all the rockers, at idle its fine, as soon as it gets to 2k and up they start tapping like mad! and it DOESNT sound like the bottom end, Could it be worn valves or just because its been sitting soo long?

Thanks
carl325i
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Post Thu Jul 28, 2005 8:54 pm

sounds like a worn camshaft?
Widge
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Post Thu Jul 28, 2005 8:56 pm

Could be the injectors clicking, mine sound like a regiment of storm trooper in tap shoes taking lessons from fred astaire. Also all M20's have a tendency to be "tappety" it's just the way they are. Long shot, I cant really tell without hearing it, but my bro had a cracked exhaust manifold which only tapped under load!?
Richy325iTouring
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Post Thu Jul 28, 2005 10:09 pm

carl325i wrote:sounds like a worn camshaft?
cams rarley wear its most likely a holowed out rocker other than cam
check the spray bar isnt blocked
if it is its stopping the oil from getting at the rockers and then that will kil them
happened to my old 2door
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Andy325i
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Post Thu Jul 28, 2005 10:33 pm

I did the tappets on mine one because they were noisy......They were ten times worse than before I started!!!! Redid them and not touched them since!!!!! :lol:
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 12:04 am

i had noisy tapping , i swear from under the car, mucked about with the exhaust, tapping has lessened quite alot :cool:
Martinaston
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 12:13 am

Does the noise increase/decrease with engine temp ?
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 12:16 am

mine used to increase with the weight of my right foot :wink: sorry fella, it used to get nore noticable as i put more acc. on and disapear as i cluched in , so i dunno :?
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 12:53 am

johnono that sounds like your injectors :(
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 1:00 am

i know fella :( not much i can do really, even a new set wont make it that much quieter. but the reset it got a little while ago cut a load of ticking off so its recomended anyway :wink:
Martinaston
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 1:12 am

Yep
I spent a few hours swapping around the 15 i now own :mad:
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 1:17 am

15 bmԚ´s :eek: you are a hero :notworthy:
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PeteE30Tourer
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 8:09 am

I've got exactly the same problem. Even after swapping the head over for a completely different one with a brand new cam, the ticking hasn't gone away. I've come to the conclusion it's the injectors, but it's driving me mad - the one thing i really hate about my car at the moment. The other Touring i bought is as quiet as anything - no ticking whatsoever, so i'm considering swapping over the injectors from that car to my daily driver.
Martinaston
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:32 am

15 BM's ?

I wish. 15 Injectors from the breakers more like.

You think i'm going to pay BMW Ԛ£450 for a set :mad:
g57yle
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:52 am

i had a proper look and was amazed at what i saw!!!!

fisrtly the camshaft is worn by about 1mm!

AND one of the rocker faces can become into a s shape rather than a half moon shape!!!!!!

so i know what i need now!

A cam and set of rockers and another day!!!

but the funny thing is the oil bar is spraying fine so i cant work out why it became like that!
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:58 am

It's probably been adjusted too tight to make it nice and quiet :mad:
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tourer-dan
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:23 am

There was a standard cam and rockers on ebay a while back that didn't sell (no, they're not mine!!), so keep your eyes open as they might be punted round again!!

I replaced my cam and rockers and combined it with a full service and 4 belt renewal and it cost me about Ԛ£300 in bits from GSF.
Also some advice:don't bother adjusting the clearances with the head off the car as they will all tighten up when you put it back together and turn it over a few times (If you've re-lapped the valves in)

Lastly, spend Ԛ£35 and have the head pressure tested and checked for 'straightness' (not warped) as this cost me another Ԛ£425 6 weeks later because I didn't bother.......
Wilson
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 12:38 pm

Replace the O rings on injectors if replacing... all 12
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g57yle
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 3:06 pm

i always replace the rockers with the head out, is there a way do do them with the head still in the car?

Thanks
Karan
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:56 pm

g57yle wrote:i always replace the rockers with the head out, is there a way do do them with the head still in the car?

Thanks
i think if u take the bonnet out and lift the engine from below slightly with a jack it is possible.......
Widge
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Post Fri Jul 29, 2005 5:17 pm

ANy one actually done this? Cos I watched/helped Craigeeb take the cam out of my spare head and the rockershafts were stuck hard. I don't know how you would get them out without being able to hit them! I want to put my 'pina cam in at some point preferably without taking the head off.
g57yle
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Post Sat Jul 30, 2005 9:07 am

if i could take them out with the head in, it would save time and money
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tourer-dan
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Post Mon Aug 01, 2005 11:25 am

Bit of confusion here, I meant it's a waste of time adjusting your valve clearances with the head off, because as soon as you put the head back on they all tighten up a bit. I'm not sure whether this is to do with the alloy head, or just the valves/valve springs settling in once you turn the engine a few times
AFIK it would be a right job trying to remove the actual rockers with the head still on, if at all possible. There's a couple of ways of taking them out: the 'one man' method of removing them with the cam still in and the (easier) 2 man method of cam out first and 3 skinny screwdrivers.
Widge
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Post Mon Aug 01, 2005 11:42 am

Hi mate, can you expand on the cam out two skinny screw drivers method, cos all I want to do is change to my pina cam, the valve gear is all ok.
Cheers
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tourer-dan
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Post Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:11 pm

The haynes manual describes the cam out first method, but I found that hard to do, so I just pulled the cam back so it sat down off it's bearings and then slid the rocker shafts out while no rockers were under load, then withdrew the cam completely. I installed the new cam this way too, you just need the cam positioned so the dowel hole is at the very bottom, then lift 3 rockers and slide the cam into place. You lift the rockers by inserting skinny screwdrivers into the slots and levering. (although my pin punches were stronger than my screwdrivers)

The other method I found described on here somewhere is to position the valve of cyl.5 to fully open, then bang the shaft out from the front. once the shaft has cleared cyl.1, rotate the cam so cyl.1 is fully open, then the rest should be under no load. (remember to fully slacken the eccentrics first). Be sure to slide out front to back otherwise you won't be able to rotate the cam once the rocker shaft has moved. This is the best (only?) method if you are by yourself.
g57yle
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Post Sat Aug 06, 2005 8:42 am

Hello tourer-dan. do you mean to knock the shaft that holds the rockers back and then remove the cam? thanks







tourer-dan wrote:The haynes manual describes the cam out first method, but I found that hard to do, so I just pulled the cam back so it sat down off it's bearings and then slid the rocker shafts out while no rockers were under load, then withdrew the cam completely. I installed the new cam this way too, you just need the cam positioned so the dowel hole is at the very bottom, then lift 3 rockers and slide the cam into place. You lift the rockers by inserting skinny screwdrivers into the slots and levering. (although my pin punches were stronger than my screwdrivers)

The other method I found described on here somewhere is to position the valve of cyl.5 to fully open, then bang the shaft out from the front. once the shaft has cleared cyl.1, rotate the cam so cyl.1 is fully open, then the rest should be under no load. (remember to fully slacken the eccentrics first). Be sure to slide out front to back otherwise you won't be able to rotate the cam once the rocker shaft has moved. This is the best (only?) method if you are by yourself.
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tourer-dan
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Post Sat Aug 06, 2005 2:30 pm

not sure what you mean.
If you want to do it alone, you need to remove the rocker shafts with the cam still on it's bearings.
Widge
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Post Sat Aug 06, 2005 4:21 pm

I just want to be able to change the cam with the head still in the car, but I don't think the rocker shafts will have a hope in hell of coming out like that, they are very tight.
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Fr0ztz
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Post Wed Nov 09, 2005 8:55 pm

i have a similar problem, the tapping noise goes completly when temp rises in traffic over 1/4 and a bit. running a e30 318i 1991 86k 10w-40 magantec. I'm thinking its the oil tube on top?? hotter the oil the easier it it for the oil to get to the tappets??
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Post Wed Nov 09, 2005 9:34 pm

You think that's odd??

Mine taps and stays tapping no matter what temp i get it to. ALTHOUGH, it does change with the revs, albiet a second or so after. Just drove to Salisbury and back, and it was noisy all the way!

anyone? If it is injectors, are they easy to change?
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Post Wed Nov 09, 2005 10:00 pm

oze30 wrote:If it is injectors, are they easy to change?
That's what i'm about to find out. I've just posted about it here:

http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... 341#226341
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