My Touring is currently in a million-and-one pieces being prepared for a complete re-paint. Before it's put back together, I thought it would be an excellent time to clean out and lubricate my door innards (latches, window rails, locks, hinges, etc.).
Does anyone have a list of things that should be addressed? And what kind of lubricants? Light oil? White grease? Silicone spray? WD40? K-Y? I'm kind of lubrication illiterate. Any recommendations much appreciated!
Door Care Checklist
Moderator: martauto
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KDS
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-KDS in Vancouver ('88 325i Touring)
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astondg
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My doors are apart too and I am doing the same thing. So far I have removed some of that insulation type stuff that used to be suck on the inside but had fallen off, cleaned them with a high pressure cleaner thing (cover the electrics of course), sprayed some rust preventer around the bottom (inside the door), put some soft plastic pipe around 2 metal parts that were touching (trying to get rid of rattles), and sprayed on some WD40 and also some grease type stuff for the door latch. I also bought some new interior door handle/pull bits because mine were broken.
I am interested to hear what everyone else thinks too. I won't be putting mine back together for another week (waiting for my door panels to get retrimmed) so I'll see what other ideas people have
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Aston
I am interested to hear what everyone else thinks too. I won't be putting mine back together for another week (waiting for my door panels to get retrimmed) so I'll see what other ideas people have
Aston
BMW E30 323i with some stuff
1:05.17 @ Queensland Raceway Sprint track
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1:05.17 @ Queensland Raceway Sprint track
1:10.09 @ Queensland Raceway Clubman track
1:21.67 @ Morgan Park Raceway
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KDS
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Halloo? Anybody?! You guys are usually such a fountain of useful information. Aston and I are counting on you! It's life or death!!! (Okay, not really.)

-KDS in Vancouver ('88 325i Touring)
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Martinaston
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1st of all don't get the KY mixed up with the white grease it can be very irritating
I know a guy that got the KY mixed with Immac (hair remover) on a one night stand
I bet thats a night that girl won't forget for some time.
Anyway back on topic.
White grease everywhere and don't use WD40 it removers all other lubricant's and then dries out so is a total waste of time.
I know a guy that got the KY mixed with Immac (hair remover) on a one night stand
Anyway back on topic.
White grease everywhere and don't use WD40 it removers all other lubricant's and then dries out so is a total waste of time.
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Brianmoooore
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Check the rollers in the door strap mechanism turn OK. If one door makes a different noise to the others when you open or close it, then the frame that holds the rollers may be broken.
Undo strap from door pillar and remove two obvious bolts to remove strap and bracket together. Don't let door swing open hard when the strap is off!
Undo strap from door pillar and remove two obvious bolts to remove strap and bracket together. Don't let door swing open hard when the strap is off!
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rickk
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Yeah, don't use WD-40 (at least not for the window guides). I tried it on my erratic (stuck) power windows, worked perfectly.... for a day or so.
Then I lubed things up with some white grease with PFTE (Teflon) in it and they've worked perfectly ever since (2 years and counting).
Used this stuff on the hinges and latch too, and ofcourse used graphite on the locks themselves (works wonders and isn't prone to freezing).
Also make sure you put back that moldy white plastic weather shielding in a 'waterproof' way (ductape will be fine) otherwise your interior will get damp really quick when it rains.
Try cleaning out the crud in the bottom of the door as best as you can and spray some anti-rust stuff in there, a lot of water flows trough there in heavy rain.
Finally, carefully check the doorbrakes, by now these are prone to break if they haven't been replaced yet and IIRC aren't really expensive to replace.
- Rick
Then I lubed things up with some white grease with PFTE (Teflon) in it and they've worked perfectly ever since (2 years and counting).
Used this stuff on the hinges and latch too, and ofcourse used graphite on the locks themselves (works wonders and isn't prone to freezing).
Also make sure you put back that moldy white plastic weather shielding in a 'waterproof' way (ductape will be fine) otherwise your interior will get damp really quick when it rains.
Try cleaning out the crud in the bottom of the door as best as you can and spray some anti-rust stuff in there, a lot of water flows trough there in heavy rain.
Finally, carefully check the doorbrakes, by now these are prone to break if they haven't been replaced yet and IIRC aren't really expensive to replace.
- Rick
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KDS
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Thanks for all the good advice, guys!

-KDS in Vancouver ('88 325i Touring)
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Brianmoooore
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Silicon grease spray is the best thing for the window guides. (And every electrical plug and socket on the whole car).
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KDS
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Does silcone spray function the same as dielectric grease? Just spray it on electrical contacts for an improved connection?Brianmoooore wrote:Silicon grease spray is the best thing for the window guides. (And every electrical plug and socket on the whole car).

-KDS in Vancouver ('88 325i Touring)
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Brianmoooore
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Never heard of it to be honest, so did a quick google search, which shows that it is, or is largely, silicon grease.KDS wrote: Does silcone spray function the same as dielectric grease? Just spray it on electrical contacts for an improved connection?
Maybe the US term fot it?
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trotter
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The plastic weather sheet behind the door cards can be replaced with (Blue Peter clear Stickey Back Plastic) a roll of plastic window film used to make clear glass peeping tom proof.
Can be found in your local Homebase store.
Good luck
Gary
Can be found in your local Homebase store.
Good luck
Gary
