arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh

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wayneE30
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Post Fri Jul 22, 2005 8:36 pm

i fitted the replacement peirburg i bought fired her up and she sounded and looked like she was running sweet.







or so i thought




i took her for a test drive and about a mile away from home she started to cough and splutter when i accelerated quickly so i just thought it hadent cured it and started to head home when



bang







it backfired and died right there on the main road managed to push it to the next junction and in to a housing estate.

managed to get it started again but when i put it in to drive nothing happend the revs were at about 4500rpm's but it had no drive so i just let it tick over and the revs was going from 1000 to 2000 to 1000 and so on then it died and that was it it wouldent start again.

so me not wanting to walk back decieded to put the old carb back on so did that as quick as poss turned her over a couple of times and she started still coughed when i accelerated as always but she got home
now my question is what the hell do i do now :cry:[/b]
wayneE30
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Post Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:47 pm

looks like i need brians expert advise again :D
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Brianmoooore
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Post Fri Jul 22, 2005 10:17 pm

Is this replacement carb a Pierburg (same as original) or a Webber?
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Post Fri Jul 22, 2005 10:32 pm

pierburg same as the one i took off brian mate
wayneE30
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Post Fri Jul 22, 2005 11:16 pm

so what do you think it could be then brian?? damn car is doin my head in :cry: :cry: :cry:
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Brianmoooore
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Post Fri Jul 22, 2005 11:48 pm

Trouble is, I'm no expert on these carb engines, other than my first E30 was one. That one was only about six years old at the time, and the carb on that was totally clapped already.
Im'm afraid it sounds like you may have replaced one worn carb with another.
The Webber is by far the best cure.
Only thing I can suggest you do is strip the replacement carb and blow through all the jets etc, in case it has a blockage, or swap the vacuun/variable resistor assemblies onto your old carb.
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 8:49 am

Ive got a carb you can have for nothing mate . I'm just about to take it off a 316 auto ready to rip the lump out . I know its old but i drove the car two weeks ago and it was fine if you can get down here its yours
regards
john
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 8:57 am

johnl320 wrote:Ive got a carb you can have for nothing mate . I'm just about to take it off a 316 auto ready to rip the lump out . I know its old but i drove the car two weeks ago and it was fine if you can get down here its yours
regards
john
thats very good of you John-real 'zone spirit!!!!

wayne-like brian said, could be a problem with the new carb's vacuum/variable resistor, causing it to run lumpy and stall.

is the carb in some way directly linked to the autobox? cos seems weird you had gear selection problems with the newer carb.....
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 9:42 am

another possibility is the relay that controls the electrics on the carb
if that is missing or knackard then it will run like shit

change that
cant remember the partt number off hand but i try and find out for you
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wayneE30
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:14 am

johnl320 wrote:Ive got a carb you can have for nothing mate . I'm just about to take it off a 316 auto ready to rip the lump out . I know its old but i drove the car two weeks ago and it was fine if you can get down here its yours
regards
john

john thanks for the offer thats realy very good of you mate but unfortuneatly(spell) i dont think i would be able to get to you.
but what a top guy you are :thumb: :clap:
wayneE30
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:27 am

320Touring wrote:
johnl320 wrote:Ive got a carb you can have for nothing mate . I'm just about to take it off a 316 auto ready to rip the lump out . I know its old but i drove the car two weeks ago and it was fine if you can get down here its yours
regards
john
thats very good of you John-real 'zone spirit!!!!

wayne-like brian said, could be a problem with the new carb's vacuum/variable resistor, causing it to run lumpy and stall.

is the carb in some way directly linked to the autobox? cos seems weird you had gear selection problems with the newer carb.....

thats what i find wierd as the guy i got it off a felow zoner said the engine run fine he even offered for me to go and have a look at it running so im 99% sure its not the carb its self





im not sure if its connected to the autobox in some way i would have to ask some body as i dont know mate but that same problem happened with the old carb too it backfired and then had no drive in gear


i was thinking would the carb want tuning to the engine???
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:34 am

Richy325iTouring wrote:another possibility is the relay that controls the electrics on the carb
if that is missing or knackard then it will run like sh*t

change that
cant remember the partt number off hand but i try and find out for you
sorry Richy im un sure which part your refering to there as there is four different electrical connections on the carb sorry if i sound stupid but i realy dont know my way round this engine
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 12:34 pm

Hi - I'm the guy that supplied the carb - I'm really sorry it doesn't seem to be working - as I said, I drove the car approx. 8 miles back home without an air filter, and it ran fine. It may be something else - if it's an electrical item connected with the carb, or anything else thats still on the car that will help, you can have it 4 free - I sold it in good faith, and I'd hate to be thought of of 'rooking' someone!
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 12:37 pm

Sorry, just read Richy325i touring post - if it's a relay, let me know which one, and it's in 1st class post tonight!!
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 12:37 pm

wayneE30 wrote:
i was thinking would the carb want tuning to the engine???
It possibly would if it came from a different capacity engine.
Weren't early ones 1600cc and later ones 1800cc (still badged 316)
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Treeman612
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 12:42 pm

The carb came off a car registered 24/8/1988, the log book says engine capacity 1766cc. Model is defo. 316 on the logbook
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 12:42 pm

Treeman612 wrote:Hi - I'm the guy that supplied the carb - I'm really sorry it doesn't seem to be working - as I said, I drove the car approx. 8 miles back home without an air filter, and it ran fine. It may be something else - if it's an electrical item connected with the carb, or anything else thats still on the car that will help, you can have it 4 free - I sold it in good faith, and I'd hate to be thought of of 'rooking' someone!
you're alright mate! we know that you sold wayne the carb in good faith. :cool: :cool:

Wayne's car has been playing up for a while and we seem to eventually be narrowing it down to a couple of things
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wayneE30
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 12:45 pm

Treeman612 wrote:Hi - I'm the guy that supplied the carb - I'm really sorry it doesn't seem to be working - as I said, I drove the car approx. 8 miles back home without an air filter, and it ran fine. It may be something else - if it's an electrical item connected with the carb, or anything else thats still on the car that will help, you can have it 4 free - I sold it in good faith, and I'd hate to be thought of of 'rooking' someone!


dont worry mate i dont think i've been ripped off :thumb:


just like brian said what size engine was yours mine is the 1766cc engine


it just might need tuning
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 12:48 pm

320Touring wrote:
Treeman612 wrote:Hi - I'm the guy that supplied the carb - I'm really sorry it doesn't seem to be working - as I said, I drove the car approx. 8 miles back home without an air filter, and it ran fine. It may be something else - if it's an electrical item connected with the carb, or anything else thats still on the car that will help, you can have it 4 free - I sold it in good faith, and I'd hate to be thought of of 'rooking' someone!
you're alright mate! we know that you sold wayne the carb in good faith. :cool: :cool:

Wayne's car has been playing up for a while and we seem to eventually be narrowing it down to a couple of things

totally agree :cool:
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 1:53 pm

It possibly would if it came from a different capacity engine.
Weren't early ones 1600cc and later ones 1800cc (still badged 316)
all e30 m10 engine (carb or injection) are 1766. The 316 carb always had a 1.8 (1766) engine.
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wayneE30
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 3:13 pm

ok guys i've been out again and im stumped swapped the carb over again this time i left some of the breather pipes off and after a while the engine fired up but it's running now at 2000 rpm im so :?
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 4:33 pm

Pull the old carb apart so you know it inside out and what each part does/should do.
Single/double venturi, float chamber, number of jets, kicker valve, insulating block
It will all help with your understanding of how the car works.
If you've changed the whole assembly and still have the same problems then i would say check all the parts that are original like the Temp sensor and thermal valve.
Have you done a compression test on the block ?
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 4:37 pm

no mate as i havent got the tool to do it
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 4:40 pm

i would pull the old carb apart but that one at the moment runs better on the car and i dont want to pull the new one apart in case i bugger it up :cry: :cry: i dont know should i just sell it and cut my losses???? :cry:
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 4:42 pm

Have you checked the thermal valve ?
Does the problem occur at the same engine temp ?
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 4:45 pm

Martinaston wrote:Have you checked the thermal valve ?
Does the problem occur at the same engine temp ?
no mate where is it and how would i check it
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 4:48 pm

Does the problem occur at the same engine temp ?

sometimes its ok when hot but more or less all the time it plays up
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 6:09 pm

On the front side of the carb there should be a vacuum hose that runs to the thermal valve somewhere near the front of the engine block (large nut probably brass with two hoses attached) and a second pipe runs back to the secondary throttle diaphragm assembly (the round piece also on the front side of carb).
With the engine cold pull the vacuum hose from the secondary assembly and see if air is being pulled through. If it is the valve is no good as it should be closed when cold and only operate the second throttle valve once the engine has warmed up.

If its not the thermal valve thats faulty then you may have other problems with a worn secondary throttle shaft.
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 6:16 pm

i will go and check that now and get back to you mate cheers
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 6:26 pm

ok no air blowing or being sucked from either vaccum hoses
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 6:46 pm

You should get air being drawn into the pipe that goes directly into the venturi :?

You did start the car ?
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 6:52 pm

Pull both pipes off and see if you can blow through them and then give them a clean with a pipe cleaner anyway.
Make sure you do them one at a time so as not to get the positions mixed up.
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 6:56 pm

Martinaston wrote:You should get air being drawn into the pipe that goes directly into the venturi :?

You did start the car ?

yes i did start the car :lol:


the venturi im guessing that thats the black round thing???
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 7:29 pm

Nope the black thing i think your talking of should be the secondry throttle diaphram assembly, the pipe runs from that through the therm valve then back to venturi.
The Venturi' is the two big holes in the middle of the carb that the engine pulls the air into.
When the engine is running they cause a vacuum that draws the fuel in.

The pipe to the thermal valve should run from a small brass pipe sticking out the side of the carburettor that runs through into venturi.
so when the engine is running that pipe should be drawing air in.
Put your finger over the end to see if you can feel a pull.

If not pull the pipe off and try to blow through it.
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Post Sat Jul 23, 2005 7:38 pm

what your describing dont sound like what mine looks like what i will do is go and take some pictures and show you what it looks like and see if you think that pipes might be in the wrong place