Hi
Need help trying to resolve my central locking issue.
The drivers lock has been changed at some point and does not lock when I turn the key, it will open. Passenger door locks and opens but no central locking, and fuel cap doesn't lock.
I have to push the lock down manually from the inside to lock the drivers door and when i do this I can hear a motor whir.
Sorry have asked question before but need some guidence to get to the bottom of the problem.
Where should I start?
Any help appreciated.
Central Locking help on E30 1990 325i sport
Moderator: martauto
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49353
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
You start with the forum search function, looking for "red AND black", and my username!
The driver's door problem is a seperate issue, and is caused by wear/lack of lubrication of the mechanism, especially the L shaped piece at the rear of the lock barrel assembly.
With the central locking working properly, this problem will be masked.
The driver's door problem is a seperate issue, and is caused by wear/lack of lubrication of the mechanism, especially the L shaped piece at the rear of the lock barrel assembly.
With the central locking working properly, this problem will be masked.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49353
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
On a saloon, you're locking for two seperate red/black wires, each going to a seperate pin on the car side of the door socket.
Had lots of issues with mine - Did the red/black wire thing. No joy. It was the central locking ECU. There is a repair guide on here - basically had a broken wire on the resistor. Soldered it together - and coolio...........all working. Dead chuffed.
Brian will correct me if I am wrong but use caution when resoldering the connection on the central locking control unit as the correct solder must be used or it can cause the unit to blow.Chris36 wrote:Had lots of issues with mine - Did the red/black wire thing. No joy. It was the central locking ECU. There is a repair guide on here - basically had a broken wire on the resistor. Soldered it together - and coolio...........all working. Dead chuffed.
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Speedtouch
- Old Skooler
- Posts: 14009
- Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Canterbury
Had to fix mine today, using guidance from this thread http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... =red+black
I had to join three wires together: the red and red/black from the thick loom going to the door multiplug and also the other red/black from the thin loom (of three or so wires). I didn't disconnect the battery (though in theory you should): when you connect the third red wire to the other two, the central locking relay clicks.
Mine had been intermittent for a few months; looking at the green discolouration of the multiplug when the rubber boot was pulled back revealed all I needed to know about the state of the pins within, so I didn't waste time trying to pull the multiplug out!
It was possible to do this with the multiplug left in situ, just removing the speaker for access.
I had to join three wires together: the red and red/black from the thick loom going to the door multiplug and also the other red/black from the thin loom (of three or so wires). I didn't disconnect the battery (though in theory you should): when you connect the third red wire to the other two, the central locking relay clicks.
Mine had been intermittent for a few months; looking at the green discolouration of the multiplug when the rubber boot was pulled back revealed all I needed to know about the state of the pins within, so I didn't waste time trying to pull the multiplug out!
It was possible to do this with the multiplug left in situ, just removing the speaker for access.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421